Ares3985

Found a small exhaust leak on my downpipe to turbo. Nothing significant. Fixed it and same results. Also found a leak on the wastegate arm. I don’t think this can be fixed short of pulling the turbo and rebuilding it. This was also a small leak. I’m not sure if this would give me any of the issues I’m having though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i added a cruise log to the last post dave. so yes it just wasnt fully warmed up. i have boost leak and smoke tested so many times i cant even count and found nothing. wideband is in the bellmouth. i just drove the car now and i had a few knock events. something which i have not had before now. dam stayed at 1 tho and there was no knock learn. i changed the o2 during the tune and just changed the maf a few weeks ago thinking these were both issues. im seriously stumped here. sometimes i drive and have crazy negative correction and at the same throttle i can have crazy postive correction. there just isnt anything consistent.

Here is a short idle log but the learning was positive during it. I havent changed my logging parameters since the tune. I havent been able to go for a cruise yet as i am doing some other work on the suspension. Maybe you will see something in this log. added a cruise log. 50ish mph very light throttle and the correction is all over. during the cruise i saw the af correction go from -25 to +25. now i am getting slight knock too. i never had these issues before the tune and now they are all just popping up at once. Th ecar has not been modified since. it has been sitting in the garage the majority of the time Idle.csv cruise.csv

It is adding fuel now but it was pulling fuel when I had the old maf in. It was at about -12 learning at idle or cruise. That’s why I changed it but it sent the readings the complete other direction Yes it was etuned. The wideband at idle settles at 15.8 while the accessport holds 14.7. It was tuned at idle and cruise using the accessport datalogs. Wot was tuned using the datalogs and wideband. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just went out and smelled it. I guess I smells a little like fuel. That oil is only about 500 miles old too Right before I got the rich wot I should add that I did a free air calibration on my wideband. Before that it was always mid 10’s wot. So maybe I was getting Incorrect WB readings during the tune and now that I calibrated it. It is showing 8 and 9. Maybe too much fuel was added initially but wasn’t realized because the wideband was reading wrong? Idk maybe I’ll just buy some 1050x injectors and get a dyno tune. I have a vf52 so maybe I could benefit from the injectors even if the stock ones I have are actually fine. I’d hate to get tuned and them say the injector is bad and I lose my deposit and have to come back anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And now my afr at wot is going as rich as 8 and 9. I’m gonna laugh when I spent all this time diagnosing just to find out my tune was shit from the beginning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well just reset it with the new maf. Went to +12 this time instead of +25. I guess I’ll just have to put the bad maf back in for the time being and get the car retuned. Kind of annoying. Maybe the maf scaling is off or something. At least my wide band is still sitting on low 15s and my accessport is 14.7. I guess as long as it makes the corrections for now I should be fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually did not. I’ll reset it when I get home and let it idle and see what has changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah it’s gotta be the maf. When I switched from the one I tuned on to the new one the numbers changed drastically. But if it’s set up for the bad maf I would assume a new one would send the numbers the other way like it did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Uh ok? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just put my old maf back in and now this So it went from adding a lot of fuel to pulling a little bit of fuel. Does this mean I was tuned in a bad maf probably? I believe I changed it because it was going -12 but with the new one it’s +25 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car was tuned for everything I have on it in the fall. Was running great. Every week or so I go and let it run for 20 min just to keep the battery charged and get condensation out. But now my af learning and correction are all wacky. I tested for leaks with pressure and smoke. Changed my maf and my front o2 sensor is new. Idk what else to do. I keep pressure testing and find nothing. It’s adding a ton of fuel and idk why it would be if there aren’t any leaks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok awesome. I just went thru the first tank. I drove it 100 miles on Saturday. Seems a little better. I’ll wait it out and see what happens Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got mine. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does clearing mem2 without having the Subaru tool to guide you through relearn really do anything. Everyone says that you just need to drive the car but the service manual says there is a procedure. The manual makes it seem like after doing the short procedure with their tool to guide it is learned immediately. I have about 40-50 miles on my valve body and it drives terrible. I’m thinking that just clearing mem2 and driving isn’t the correct way. Can anyone shed some light on this? I really want to drive my car but it’s pretty miserable after the valve body mod. I never know what it’s going to do or how it will act. I wanted to drive it to work tomorrow which is 50 miles each way but I’m nervous to take it that far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is exactly how my 2015 acts. Has always done it since I got it with 17000 miles. Now I’m at 114000. I tend to use manual mode because it eliminates the problem completely. It is very annoying especially in stopped traffic. On flat ground from a stop it gets to like 5mph or so and then jerks. Like you also said. Going uphill in traffic it will very aggressively decelerate at low speeds. Car basically nose dives and shudders. I was thinking to do the front and rear diff fluid this weekend to help with the issue but obviously it’s not going to help. Where did you get the service manual for it? I’ve read that the drain and fill plugs can be confusing and you could inadvertently drain your cvt fluid. I’d like a manual to show me exactly what I should be removing. My 4th gen is so much easier than these cvts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Says project pending review. Can’t see it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The guy builds them all the time so I doubt he messed up. It’s really not that bad. Just different. Problem is I really don’t put any miles on the car to get through the learning in a short amount of time. It’s been in for a month and I’d be surprised if I have 40 miles on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s better with the paddles. It’s really when you floor it in full auto that it does weird things. I’m sure it will get better. Not even a tenth thru the learning process and it already seems a bit better. In the spring and summer I should be able to get some miles on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my car has been running at 0 at learning 1 for a while. It idles are 0 and drives at 0. All of a sudden it is going up to -10 but when I drive it goes to 0. I checked for leaks via smoke test and boost leak tester and got nothing. It actually held the boost leak test better than ever before. My wife band is reading 15.6-15.9 at idle which would suggest its lean at idle. Being lean at idle I’ve read isn’t a bad thing because the engine isn’t under any load but why is my accessport all of a sudden reading weird. The afr on the wideband is the same it’s been since my tune Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Idk it’s just rough. If I floor it it goes to downshift and kind of bucks. Almost like it doesn’t know what gear to go to. Downshifts are harsh in general. Upshifts aren’t too bad. Firm but that’s what I want. I’ve only been able to get 30 miles if that on it so I guess I’m just being impatient. For it to learn do I need a lot of stop and go? Granny driving? Full throttle? Also should I not be using the paddles until full auto is learned? I haven’t found a real good procedure other than people saying just drive it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long until the transmission learned and shifted properly? Mine only has 30 miles on it and it’s still acting all wonky Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All finished. Came out good. Only took an hour. Totally worth 38 bucks to do this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. I got the Hayden 676. Apparently a good size for the LGT. Doesn’t have any sort of fan or thermostat but should do the job. I have my trans drained so I figured what better time than now to disconnect some hoses. Should be here tomorrow and I can install that and button up my valve body install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk