Jolbaru_LGT

So, when taking off the transmission, I noticed a crusty ol coolant hose under the turbo. Since I don't know when I'll ever get to this again, it's gotta be changed. Anyone have any experience with this? Do I need to drain the coolant and take off the turbo to get at it? It really looks like it's going to fail and I've got the parts ready, I just need some advice. Thanks!

^thats great advice thanks. I bought the Rock Auto Condenser and hose, since that was where the leak was, I’m holding off on the compressor and everything else. I’ll just bring those 2 parts with and let them do the rest.

That was a typo

Well, so far I've got the TYC Condenser, the Header and Desiccant Bag Kit, and the discharge hose in my cart. I'm going to wait for another paycheck to get the compressor. What else might I need? Sorry for all the noob questions, but I literally know nothing about A/C systems. In all my previous cars, when they stopped working, they stayed broken. I'm not about to go this route with this car.

What about the condensers with corrosion protection? I do live in WI...

Any thoughts on this kit? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9831008&cc=1430733&pt=17507&jsn=11773&_nck=HllVxRCey1%2B2aVRDo41oQcMse1xIL9SL3KmW9dQXSf%2BAJlcOi2imTXTfOFLWd%2FZ7qi3oWcgQbtVtfiosB09jyUkNCc52VyjIMNYOtgC02QyKC5oI3d3yxl5GWEkNM59M9Wf20xE2fz5%2BA9UuA2SMp5ta5TIMIoaGxnNn515ueWxlDgn7KmufXpRrkw4t2QYW8TYWtzG8SMBMHnLeCUgFGsmyTTvUp0huB49Tgb%2F45s5JsAhV7VPr4sVPfL4rxdOb%2FB8RPEmWRB%2BBCv7xJSVwZitc1X3hzwvrQmN%2BxBbBaV9XPkFtwtResu%2BPhl6Q5of%2BW8Xo0RZfdD9bdfE3SfhC0KyBHgs5X%2Bgh Just wondering as I think my compressor is original with 255,000 miles on it. Not like I really want to spend the extra money, but I don't want it pooping out on me.

Yeah, except my brother(the P.O.) thought the engine had to be lifted separately from the transmission to get it to separate. So that's what we did. I've never done a clutch before so I didn't argue. Was this the wrong thing to do?

So, when trying to get the transmission and engine free from each other to replace the clutch, I heard a slow hissing from the A/C Condenser area. Now, I'm assuming it was right where the discharge hose meets the condenser. That's where I heard and saw it spewing from, although the grill was on, so I couldn't get to it fast enough to see... That discharge hose must have gotten caught up on this delrin Grimmspeed oil filler cap I installed a little while ago. Might not have had that problem with the big dorky OEM Subaru one, but in hindsight I guess... Now, has anyone else run into that problem? What am I looking at with repairs? Was just the hose compromised? Or the condenser ruined? Or simply the connection loosened enough to break the seal? I know I'll probably have to take it to the dealership potentially and get the system inspected, leak tested or whatever. Or is an independent A/C shop good enough to service our cars? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a little upset that it might cost me a lot more than I bargained for. I really like having A/C lol... Thanks again!

There isn't a spring there. I don't really ride or hover over the pedal either. I used to keep the clutch in at red lights and stuff, but I'm getting out of that habit. I'm fairly easy on the clutch. I only push on it when I need to and keep my foot away when it's not being used, even in stop and go traffic. Pretty good with that, I was taught well early on in my driving career. lol

Hi, so I'm preparing for a clutch job. I've got a Spec 2+ stage clutch kit, TOB/snout kit, and a Verus fork ready to be installed. Now, should I do a clutch return spring? I see there's topics and DIY's but I'm just wondering everyone's opinion. Will I mess up the integrity of the fork? Is it even worth it? Doesn't seem like a difficult job, but thought I'd ask first.. Thanks!

I went with Phillips 66 Multiplex Red #2 from Fastenal.

For the Koni's do I need any special strut mounts?

Hi, I'm wondering what everyone would recommend for struts and shocks? My car is OG ride height and I'd like to keep it that way. While I do have a bigger rear anti sway, and a few underbody braces, the front strut tower brace, it's pretty stock. Other than the Kartboy rear endinks, everything else is rubber not poly. Springs are stock. I was looking at Koni, and the Bilstein HD's. I know there's probably KYB and OE Subaru but I thought I'd ask before pulling any trigger. Longevity, somewhat comfort and performance is key. Wisconsin can be full of potholes and crappy pavement, and of course there's the road salt. So I don't think coilovers are an option. I plan on keeping it a DD for now and still "sending it" through Winter. Thanks in advance!

So, if the TMIC is separating, can it be saved? Or should I plan on replacing it?

So, my stock TMIC is sepreating closest to the turbo side of things. I assume I can't just push the tabs in and it'll be ok? If that's the case, and I have to get a new TMIC, I'd like to do the bulletproof mod, but I can't find any vendors. Does anyone have a DIY on what I'd need specifically to do it? Or one for sale? I've got a stage 2, with a Perrin BOV. I'm sure someone will mention a different aftermarket TMIC, but I've read the stock is fine, and sometimes better than some of the aftermarkets. Certainly is a lot cheaper. But, I guess any opinions at this point can't hurt. Thanks!

What are your thoughts on the Versus forged fork?

Sorry for all the questions, but is a stock Subaru fork ok, or, is there some better aftermarket one? Also, what kind of grease do you use for the slave cylinder boot? Looks a little graphite-y.. Exedy Stage 1 or 2 kit? I don't really race at all, but I'm considering the random autocross here and there... thanks!

UPDATE: I can physically move the clutch fork back and forth with no resistance from above. About 1/2" of free play. This doesn't seem normal. Could it be cracked or busted? I know it's original. The newer ones are beefier? Seems like if that's the problem, I'll have to replace that along with the clutch and TOB, just because getting in there is so difficult?

Thanks! The kit with the sleeve repair?

So, I'm pretty sure the throw out bearing is toast. It's been hard to engage 1st gear for a while, a little grinding on 4th, and a grinding or bearing noise when stopped and pushing in the clutch.(stops when I release the pedal) Anyways, coming home, it started lurching forward with the car in 1st and the clutch pedal in, also a fan belt squealing noise when the clutch pedal is depressed. It's enough for me to want to park the car and not drive it. Good thing it happened at home, I can't imagine being out on the road with that, so at least there's that. But now, I've got to wrap my head around a clutch job. Seems a little mega... Any advice, links or warnings? I know the PO(Bro) put a WRX clutch/pressure plate and TOB in. Is that the setup I should keep? I got about 85,000 approx. miles out of it.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-xlf/ Does anyone have any experience with it? It mentions changing 12,000/1 year, which ever comes first? I mean, other than adding oil every other day, it does sound nice.

For a daily driver, is it worth it? Will it make the engine last longer? Just asking, as a facebook guy said something like, "no turbo Subaru should be without one." Mine is stage 2 and eats a good amount of oil. I've caught a bit of oil in the intake by the TMIC and while it seems kind of normal, just thought I'd ask...

So, I got it installed by my alignment guy. There's not much room in there to get anything in there but a wrench. Sadly, I only had 12 points. The right side loosened, and the left side slipped. So, I stopped. Subsequently, I purchased a gearwrench 6 point metric wrench set. lol. For future repairs. Also lucky it was previously anti-seized. My guy said he had to move a few things around to get at it, I'm not sure what that means. But it's in, and with all the braces, front and rear it feels more STI-like and less bouncy Outback-ish. He suggested coilovers, but I'm thinking regular old Bilstein HD or Koni... Not sure how coilovers would fly in the rust belt here.

I don't have a pic at the moment, but when looking at it, the bolt head is facing right where the bar would go. It would be easy if it was flipped and the nut was on that side, and you could just remove the nut and put it on. But it looks like the whole bolt would have to come out and get re-installed to accommodate it. I'll get a pic when I've got some more time. It's probably so simple that I'll feel silly posting this, but I thought I'd ask. Lol save myself 30 bucks on install.

Update! The clip was still inside the differential. Basically I had to put the new axle in, and move and twist it a bit, until it snapped in.