Jolbaru_LGT

It's the Whiteline KTA124 Kit everyone is talking about? Also, why are some kits around $350, and others at $585? I see a big difference in price among suppliers.

Sorry, I see it's the Lateral Arm, or camber arm? Whatever it's called, I see there's Whiteline or Godspeed, and a slew of others. Godspeed seems to be cheaper. But does cheaper mean worse? I'd love to pay less, but durability and maybe winter salt strength is definitely a concern.

After a pretty reputable alignment done for new tires at P&L Motorsports in Lisle IL, they came to a few conclusions. That the AVO rear underbody brace on the LR side was messing up the adjustment. They said the eccentric bolt was spinning in place from it being so off. They removed one of the braces and got a new eccentric bolt in, but it still wouldn't get to spec. Camber wise, that is. Everything else was good, but the camber on the LR tire would be off, unless I got some adjustable LCAs? Which isn't a bad idea, because I'd like to get that brace back on, and even it all out. Now, what are the good ones? I see a lot of adjustable LCAs, some kinda cheap and some Kinda expensive. Does it matter? BTW, I think I've got cheap RA Mevotechs on right now. And yes, I Anti-Seized the crap out of the hardware, which was all new when I installed it a couple of years ago. Any recommendations or advice is greatly appreciated.

So... This might be impossible to answer, but again, there's a grinding noise coming from somewhere under my car under acceleration. It sounds like an aluminum can being ground up in the garbage disposal. Could also be a rusty old bearing somewhere as well. Now, I just looked at a diagram of the rear differential and there's quite a lot of bearings there... Yikes! There's a lot of places it could be coming from. I've almost ruled out the driveshaft itself, because it's only a few years old(Driveshaft Store) and when I try and move it, there's no play. But what else should I be looking for/looking at? I guess what I'm also trying to say, is there a painless way to inspect some things to figure out what's next? I can't imagine diving into the differential is easy, that replacing it or rebuilding it could be in order?

I might have gone overboard, but I completely covered the hot side of the TMIC in two layers of the gold stuff, and the backside of the turbo expansion tank and also the hot part of the backside of the engine cover. One top layer for the cooler side of the TMIC, and that's it! One sheet did all that, and I feel it was totally worth it. I didn't do the inside of the stock turbo heat shield, because a blanket and stock heat shield along w/the SPT shield is probably enough. That bracket wasn't budging, so I just bought a new one for 9 bucks. The SPT shield actually bolts on solid now. So that's all good. Yes, that's a brand new stock TMIC(upgraded version) and SS mesh from Pegasus, with the bulletproof mod. I'm fairly happy with it now, and it totally solved the heat buildup that I was getting. With the engine cover on, it just looks stock and clean.

But then I’d need a new Protune, correct? And honestly what are the benefits? More hp? Reliability?…

Since I’ve gotten this car, my middle name has been Overkill but you are correct. I’m happy with this setup I’ve got, but I’m willing to listen… what kind of an intercooler are you talking about?

Great idea! I’m going to order some. How much do I need? 1 foot? 2 feet? Also, it says the tape requires an air gap of 1mm to the heat source. I definitely know there isn’t that much of an air gap between the blanket and stock heat shield. But there is an air gap between the stock shield and SPT shield… thoughts?

So it’s a bracket? And it pops out? Huh. Good thing I asked…

I think so. It’s literally the only other bolt the SPT shield would connect to. Nearest to the passenger side fender.

Nice! I'll grab some of that when I dive into the bolt extraction process, and gold tape everything. Any advice on broken bolt extraction? Or is it just a matter of taking things off and doing it on a bench. I was hoping someone else ran into that same problem, and might have an answer. It looks like a right angle drill attachment might work? But seems like a long shot. Oh well...

So what am I looking at? The Downpipe? Sorry, I don't have any diagrams handy. Also, what foil is that? Sorry, just a little confused here...

Just got the SPT shield and put it on. So far so good. Although, it’s being held on by one bolt. The bolt closest to the TMIC. The only other bolt it could secure to is the bolt closest to the passenger fender. And unfortunately that hole has a cracked off bolt inside it from the P.O. I also have been noticing a rattle which I assume is coming from that side. Now, my question is: How would I extract that broken off bolt? It doesn’t look like there’s any room to get in there. Do I have to drop the downpipe? Take it off, drill it out, etc? I guess I’m not sure if it’s a hard job or not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Update: Still didn’t find anything wrong, although the sound isn’t as noticeable with the summer tires on. Could be the snows need a balance?

So, after installing the PTP turbo blanket, and snugging the stock heat shield over it(which there is absolutely no room between the two, I think I might want a heat shield that fits a bit more loosely. I'm kinda not super comfortable having that heat mass stuck right in there. I need a bit of airflow, between the two and my worries might have been justified as I just blew a water hose going from the expansion tank to the turbo. Now I know that's probably pretty common, but at this point I'd feel better with a loosely fitting heat shield or even removing the heat shield altogether. Anyways, I'm wondering if anyone recommends a certain type of heat shield? Like the SPT, Grimmspeed or whatever. Or has run into a similar problem and found a solution? Thanks!

So, my thoughts now, are that I went from WI weather to Chi weather. I didn’t see nearly as much snow in the winter, just cold and maybe rain? Snow was minimal. Would I be better off with an all season? Anyone have the Crossclimates? I still want to keep my LGT for more of a weekend machine, rather than a daily but I’m just trying to exhaust all options before I pull the trigger.

Looks like the exhaust is in the way and a heat shield? Yargh. Last time I did a driveshaft rebuild was on a 90 Volvo 245. I’m sure the LGT is quite different. I know I took it all off once before, and I can do it again. but I’d be worried that I couldn’t get balanced right or whatever. At that point, would it be better to buy a “new” Driveshaft shop one? Or what’s even the point of serviceable one?

So, I do have a rebuilt serviceable driveshaft. I just for reference.. Maybe it was from the driveshaft store? I’d have to look at my records. But anyways, it’s making a helicopter kinda noise right under the car and is that normal NVH or is the “serviceable” U-joint bad? Also, if that’s what it is, is it bad and potentially dangerous to drive it like that? Like, could it snap and all that? Just wondering if anyone else experienced this, and how easy is it to fix it myself and source the part for those U-joints? Thanks!

I’m still deciding. I know PS4S’s are pretty top of the line. But, I’m not sure I can justify the price. I see those tires on Porsches and other high end cars and SUVs and idk, they could be overkill… I’d feel SOL if something happened to my car. Guess I’m leaning towards another set of Indy 500s or General GMax RS.

Guess I knew it was overheating, and just not sure how to fix it. The temp gauge was always somewhat normal but it was just blistering hot in the engine bay, even on normal, short drives. I feel less heat even in the cabin. I was always weary of pushing it too hard just because of the heat coming off the turbo. Now, I feel a bit more confident that the blanket is on. I’ll step on it, and the engine bay feels like a normal overworked engine and not like a blistering jet engine. Screw the TMIC mister with this being on. Problem solved. I hope.

So anyways, I feel like that blanket was the missing piece of the puzzle. I’m shocked at how much cooler the engine bay is. There’s actually more heat now coming from the middle of the engine where the stock cover is right above the alternator than the turbo or TMIC itself. Dare I say the TMIC is cool? The acceleration is more spirited and comes on quicker after every shift and the car seems to warm up faster. Must be how the heat is trapped in the turbo before the rest of the engine gets going. I can tell the computer is already adjusting to the blanket and I’m excited to see how it gets once it learns the new system. Have yet to take it on a good long road trip but I’m going to do that soon, and see how oil consumption is all that. It also used to get a bit bogged down and lethargic the hotter it got and I had to step off the gas so it wouldn’t overheat. I don’t feel that urgency so much anymore and it’ll be fun to actually drive it again, then to “grandpa drive” it just to keep temps down.

Just installed it. PTP SR Glass for the WRX/STI. Fits snug, and I could get it on without removing the TMiC but maybe I should have? Can’t see using those springs I paid a big whole 2 bucks extra for. Maybe unless you get the TMIC off they slip on easier? Idk, the wire was the only easy way I could get it on and pull it together. Too cramped, and the angles were weird to pull them around and through everything, remove ALL the heatshield? Unless maybe you use the wire to pull the springs into place? Idk, guess I can save the springs and try that later. But It runs a bit different, maybe a little more spirited? Which brings me to my other question, do I need a tune now? Oh yeah, and the temps were down for sure. Especially by the heat shield, which I put back on. That fits really snug, and there’s no space or airflow between the turbo and the heatshield. Not sure if I should just take off the heatshield, or what?

Is it worth wrapping the downpipe?

I got the SS springs, not the wire. Unless it comes w/that anyways?