Jolbaru_LGT

How are Swift springs?

Or maybe just stick with the stock springs?

I spent a good deal of time fixing the rear suspension and the front suspension is solid and pretty new as well. Only issue right now is inner and outer tie rod ends, which I'll do when I finish the struts and shocks. Give it a good alignment and hope for the best! Thanks for the encouragement, I'll have to gather the parts separately. Lol. First I'll get the Spec B tophats, then buy the springs, and finally the struts and shocks. Put em all together and be good for another 100,000

So, I need to upgrade my struts, and shocks. They're all shot. Might as well do the springs too? I don't want to mess around with lowering the vehicle too much, as I like blasting through snow. I'm not really feeling the whole "coilovers" thing. I kind of want a blend of comfort, sporty, and performance. I'm thinking Bilstein B6 HD's and STI Pink springs all around. Any advice or warnings? Any better options out there? Just getting some opinions before I pull the $1500-ish trigger. Thanks!

So, I'm looking to add an armrest extension/cubby that's got the extra storage. What options do I have? I see there's JDM Dual Console, USDM, etc. What would fit, and is going to be the best deal?

Thank you!... It's funny, my front exhaust pipe(crossover/joint pipe) 44101FE070 was just as crustified as the one in your pic, just rattling around. Post #427 1st pic in your link. Anyways, I put it back together with those steel zip ties like you use on CV axles. Worked pretty good! Solid now, buying me some time. I'd show a pic, but you get the idea. You can easily get at that from under the car. Anyways, I'll fish around and try and weasel it back on I'm not losing major coolant, and my system is pretty solid, but I'll get at it when it's a bit warmer.

It's hard to get a good picture of this, as it's hidden pretty well, but if you look down on the engine and follow the dipstick, there's a rubber hose off to the side with a loose spring band clip that's possibly connected to a metal tube? That possibly goes under the A/C compressor? I'm not sure where it comes from or really where it goes to, which is why I'm stumped. It's also hard to see in there as to where it's coming from. But I see the clip is loose as I can move it around with a super long screwdriver. The first pic, I have a long screw driver touching it for reference. The second pic, I circled the loose clip. I just don't know what it is, or how to go about reaching it. It's almost like I'd either have to get it from below or take off the timing cover and a bunch of other stuff. Not sure what could be leaking if anything, but I feel like it should be secured. Any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.

Seems like something to do if you had an extra 3K or so burning a hole in your pocket. For a DD, it doesn’t make the most sense. But if you were racing, or autocrossing it, it would be a good idea. Heck if I lived in a warmer climate, or would park the car in Winter, I might do it. But to get all new Summer and Winter wheels and tires? And the calipers? Nah.. There’s plenty of other things I can save my money for. Like oil, and rising gas prices.

Oh I’ve got snow tires. Hankook Winter I-Pikes. Maybe the hawk ceramic pads in the front will be weird? I’ve also got Akebono pads in the rear.

Yeah, maybe it’s psychological and I just need to convince myself it’s ok. I have SS brake lines, Hawk High performance ceramic pads, centric rotors, I flushed it with Motul brake fluid and have that Master Cylinder brace. I probably should have gotten HPS pads, but it’s too late now. To me it just seems like 4 pistons per side would be better than 2. Lol.

I know this thread has probably been done to death, but are there any upgraded brakes for the front of Legacy GTs that would fit over stock wheels? Like 4 piston calipers? I just think I could use a little extra braking but I don’t want to spend 3-4K buying new wheels x8 and summer/snow tires. Seems like it could get pretty expensive. And I live in WI so not having snows isn’t an option. Thanks!

I guess it does take some custom work. The comments section explain..

So would this exhaust fit an 05? MAP Performance says it works with 2010-2012. But then I see a YouTube video of a guy with an 05 wagon with it. Should I just trust it fits?

sorry, I spelled that wrong

Is it possible to fit an Invidia N1 catback exhaust on an 05 LGT wagon? I like the sound of it and someone recommended it. Is it a thing an exhaust shop would have to put on, with some custom work? Or is there a better option? I’d really like a better sounding exhaust, nothing annoying. Getting kinda bored with the stock system. Also, do I need a re-tune with a new exhaust system? Thanks in advance!

We got it! Tapped it to a SAE bolt, with a coarser thread. Actually used a sillcock key to get the tap started and finished. Lucky there was enough room to get in there, but I really appreciate the advice, All-talk, it's good to have a few back up plans when you screw something like this up.

So, I messed up installing a Kartboy shifter bushing. I stripped the hole going into the firewall. Now, I'm stuck as to what to do, and the whole project I was working on is at a standstill. The provided bolts just didn't seem exact and instead of threading them on without the bushing, which I should have done, I put the bushing on, and tried getting them both in. It seems it's such a tight fit that the angles didn't line up, and I probably should have known better. Now, Im not sure what to do, my dad wants to cut a hole from underneath into the firewall and get a nut in there with a lock washer and tighten it down. I'm not sure. We tried to tap it and it just didn't seem to work. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not sure if anyone else ran into this problem, but I'm at a loss for what the right thing to do next is. Thanks in advance.

Yeah, long reach needle nose pliers worked great. Maybe long reach bent nose would work well too? Hard to say because I didn’t have one on hand. I wished I could have had that clip pre tensioned that you release like some are from Subaru. But being a return hose, maybe you would only need two of the thin wire spring clips? I’m not sure, I usually tend to do what the factory originally intended.

right. I do remember replacing those now that I think about it. One of the first hoses I replaced, just a bloated, leaking hose, connecting coolant to the turbo. I also remember that metal tube being very white and crusty. I really try to do the best I can replacing everything I see that's nasty. Only to find out what it is later on.. Here's the new one.

Honestly tho, I've got a lot to learn about these cars if I really thought that hose was coolant. Guess I was so used to replacing so many random coolant hoses around the engine, that that's what I thought it was. I didn't give much thought to why there'd be coolant going into the turbo. Thank you amm203 for correcting me, that actually gave me more courage to tackle it. But honestly, I would gladly wait another 257,000 miles before doing that job again.

The rubber tube went on fairly decent, I got the top in first and then bent and twisted the lower part on, with the clips in the middle. Then, putting the clips in place.. The bottom clip wasn't that horrible, I zip tied it together and it slid down and over the metal return tube, then I obviously cut the zip tie. The upper part(hose clamp) was the REAL bugger. That one, I swore way too much and almost freaked out trying to get it where it needed to be. In the end, it took super long extended reach needle nose pliers and a beefy metal hanger I typically use for holding up brake calipers. I had to actually shape a tool of sorts with that to pull the clip in and sneak it close enough to grab both tabs with the pliers. Once I had the two spring clip tabs secure with the pliers up as far as I could, only then could I blast a little more silicone spray and weasel it over the metal tube. Once it was finally on, and I was sure about it, could I then use a flat head screwdriver to twist it up into place. But there's no room to work in there, and you can only see it from below, with the transmission out. I couldn't get at it from the side, above or anything. Never really thought that was going to be one of the hardest part of the whole clutch job.

Yeah, you're telling me! I struggled and swore, used too much silicone spray, but I got it. Hopefully there won't be a next time, but I suppose if I ever replace/upgrade the turbo, I'll replace that then as well.. Definitely would have been easier removing the turbo.

I replaced that one 30,000 miles ago. I plan on changing both every time I do the timing belt. I just don't feel comfortable deleting it. I might change my mind about deleting the one behind the timing belt cover, but I've got some time to decide.

Funny, the spring clips in that link are what Subaru recommends for only the bottom of it, for the top there's a thicker hose clamp they recommend. And I got all that from the dealership, the hose, hose clamp and spring clip.

Ok, for some reason I thought it was coolant. Any good advice on getting at it?