Jolbaru_LGT

It’s the high level inputs. The amp that’s specifically for Alpine HU’s and not the universal one.

I have the KTP-445A Alpine in-line amp. I ran a separate power and ground for it, but kept the stock power and ground to just power up the under seat sub.

So, I have a stock under the seat sub. I thought it was a good idea, when I bought it, but as my system expands, I'm not so sure. Anyways, I also have an Alpine iLX-207 HU. When I adjust the crossovers to block the bass in the front and rear speakers, I'm also losing the bass that goes to the subwoofer. Now, I'm wondering if there's any way to access the sub output on the Alpine HU? Such as cutting off the speaker inputs going to the sub and replacing them with vampire taps from the Alpine's sub output, so I actually have some bass in the system. It's also worth noting that I'm planning on putting a sub in the back, but I'm just wondering if what I'm thinking is possible with the under the seat sub, before I remove it altogether. Thanks!

Well, I’ll have to check my Excel maintenance file, but I’m pretty sure I’ve replaced both caps within the last year/5-10k miles. With OEM, btw. I didn’t know there are name brand clamps. You’re saying the generic NAPA ones are no bueno? I believe that…

The bubbling is usually large bubbles I get in the reservoir after a long trip or "sending it." It's always been like that since Ive got the car, and it's been like that for 5 years/50,000 miles. I've been down the does-it-have-a-head-gasket-leak road before, and I'll keep going back and forth between thinking it does/doesn't have it.

So, I snugged up the bolts, I'm not sure if that'll fix anything or not? I also found a coolant leak, this hose right under the TMIC. I'm not sure what this little hose is, but I remember "fixing" it a while back with a run to NAPA. Which was a mistake. They gave me the right hose, but the clamps they gave me were worm gear. SAE too, unfortunately. Which I wasn't thrilled about, but I needed it done, as it blew old the hose and I was dead in the water. Anyways, that little clamp came loose, as I thought it would, as I don't have my assortment of spring clamps here either. So, maybe that's why there was coolant near that oil leak? It just dripped down. Anyways, time to search out the right part for that hose and clamp, from the dealership or at least get another spring clamp assortment, and match the hose again. I wouldn't be so upset, but I hate taking off the TMIC every time for that, and coolant always pours out, and I've gotta burp it again too. SMH.

Ok, thanks! I'm going to try and snug up those bolts and see if that doesn't help.

So, I'm wondering what leak I'm looking at here? Dreaded head gasket? Cam seal? Valve cover gasket? I'm thinking there's an oil pan leak as well. Head gaskets are original btw, and I'm not 100% sure on them as I've always had bubbling issues in the coolant. No major smoke. yet... But I also did the crank pulley seal recently, when I did the clutch. There's what seems like oil coming out of it. If it's the head gasket, I'd consider doing it myself. Anyone have any thoughts?

Oh, I should have mentioned I'm installing the OEM '09 Outback HK sub. I have the rear speaker bracket and HK 2 ohm dual voice coil subwoofer, and OEM HK speaker cover, which is going in the rear cargo area. The amp in question is a 250 watt mono amp(Alpine MRV-M250) so, it's 1 and 2 ohm stable. Now I know it's maybe not the best speaker it's attaching to, but it's easily replaceable and plug and play with a different sub. Probably that Pioneer TS-A2000LD2.. But it's no rush, I'll see if I can live with the HK. I've also got the Alpine iLX-207 HU and Alpine KTP-445A Power Pack to handle the 2 ohm 09 HK outback speakers all around. I just have to find a nice place to hide that amp, yet still access the controls.

So, I’m installing an aftermarket amp for a rear sub. It’s only a modest 250 watt mono amp. Anyways, what’s some of the best places to put an amp, and where can I get through the firewall cleanly to install the power to the battery post? It’s an 05 5MT LGT wagon. Thanks!

Would Camber bolts in the front help? Also I see there are camber/caster kits. My car isn't lowered, it's stock ride height. https://www.kamispeed.com/products/whiteline-front-anti-lift-caster-control-arm-lower-inner-rear-bushing-forester-wrx-sti-08-13 I believe I replaced the RUCAs with Mevotechs recently w/plenty of Anti-sleaze. I also have a bushing press kit. So that shouldn't be a problem, in theory. https://ecs-performance.com/store/whiteline-rear-camber-kit-for-05-09-legacy-gt/ Kinda looks like a slight pain to get this all in, but it makes for a project before another alignment. Would really like to get it into specs, and be able to give my alignment guy some extra points of adjustment. Good idea? Or nah?

I see the King overload springs, but they say 10-14 model years. The 3.6R say 10-12. Can anyone confirm they would work on an ‘05? Just curious. I do believe I have new 1/2 saggy butt spacer already installed on KYBs.

I just have OE stock springs all around.

Both front lower control arms were replaced recently. With Aluminum B Spec lookin' "top of the line" Autozone ones. Are you saying something frame-wise is bent? Like, it could benefit from a frame straightening? Is frame straightening even a good thing?

I see there's AVO Caster adjusting bushings for the front.. https://www.corsportusa.com/i-26012-2004-2009-subaru-legacy-avo-caster-adjustment-bushing-system-0-50-caster.html Rear Camber LCA bushings https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kca399-bushing-kit Or honestly, am I wasting my time with a witch hunt looking to smooth out these numbers?

DISCLAMIER: A while ago, my car was in an accident(P.O) front end, and right front fender(deer) It wasn't enough to junk the car IMHO, Or P.O.'sHO.. But there's maybe a bit of frame damage as the hood and RF door has slight gap issues. Doesn't really affect drivability from what I can tell. Anyways, when trying to get the camber at -1.0 all-around my alignment guy ran into some slight issues. I've uploaded the before/after measurements. Looks like the right side specifically the RR camber is off, the RF camber and caster is slightly off, but he said that's the the alignment programs's specifics, that it won't matter too much. He said he just can't get the adjustments any better. Now, I have a mainly stock suspension setup. Everything is rubber and OEM Subaru. The ride height is stock, w/KYB struts all around, stock springs. Would there be any Camber adjustment kits(Whiteline) or adjustable LCA/etc that I could install to help get the specs in prior to another alignment? Or would I be wasting my time/money? Thanks in advance!

So, I'm looking at rear overload springs, to stiffen up the rear for traveling/potential hauling. I kinda want to do the rear TABs and springs at the same time, because I'll need to re-align it. Anyone have success with them? I really didn't want to do ALL the springs, just the rears. I'm not sure if it's worth it, or just in my head that it is. I think a little more rake would be fun. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone ever added a front center speaker in an older model that didn’t come with one?

I hear ya. Everything suspension-wise is rubber on mine, except the sway bar bushings. I'm not sure what convinced me to go poly on the TABs but I must have researched it, and heard good things. I'll keep an eye/ear out for them, for sure. I figure once I get them removed, I'll clean the holes up and put a thin layer of anti-sleaze down. Which hopefully should make getting them out in the future easier if I need to.

Hmmmmm, well that's just great. I got Energy Bushings a while ago, just waiting to do this install. Thought it would help with weight, towing, etc. Could it be they just weren't lubed properly?

That’s true. Any idea if there’s an orientation? Like, which way to push them out? Like, if it’s sloped in there? Or wouldn’t it matter? Im considering doing a pic-by-pic tutorial of pushing it out, and using the ol’ burn and hacksaw as a plan B.

So, I'm about to replace my rear Trailing Arm Bushings and I see the instructions on the forums and internet all usually point to burning them out and then hitting and prying the metal sleeve out with a hammer and screwdriver. Has anyone pushed them out with a press? Like, a bushing press kit? Or ball joint tool? Just wondering anyone's thoughts or success/failures? Thanks!

Interesting. I’ve got a double DIn Alpine, I don’t really want the HK stock headunit. I’m also using the under the seat sub, but I need a little more bass. I don’t have the HK amp, but I’m not opposed to struggling with it, I just don’t think it’ll be useful at this point. I feel the Alpine has good power(for me at least) and a nice programmable sound stage. I could be wrong but it seems pretty solid. now all I’d like is that rear stock Hk sub with an aftermarket shallow 8” sub and the stock grille. I have the grill ready. In regards to putting in the stock HK subwoofer, where the cubby is… for anyone who knows of it. So, I’ve got the outer HK speaker cover for it. Now I’m wondering if all I’ll need is the bracket for that speaker. The subwoofer itself isn’t available, and I’m going to replace it anyways with a shallow 8”.. do you know(since you said you’ve replaced these before) if that’s true? Basically I’m wondering if I just need part 86301AG92A or if I’ll also need 86315AG06A as well? they’re both obsolete parts that are hard to find, I’m just wondering because I have the grill, if it’s worth tracking down. also, does anyone have access to those parts? I’m at a loss trying to find them. Thanks!

That's definetly great work, but a little more than I want. The HK speakers all around are fine for my Alpine ILX-207 w/50w x 4 and the stock rear sub that's going in with the factory 09 outback grille, I'm going to replace with a 8" aftermarket shallow sub and little mono amp. I'm just looking to retain practicality and gas mileage. I got a good deal on the HK speakers and the quality of the components are similar to popular aftermarket speakers I've had in the past. Going to save up for eventual repairs on this 274,000 car.

I wanted an upgrade, but still liked the stock look of everything. I didn’t want to cut this and mount that kind of a look. I went with the HK bracket and grille in the rear trunk area and I might get an aftermarket mono amp and shallow 8” sub to replace the HK sub. In a perfect world I’d find a cheap signal processor and get a proper sound stage. But I like where the speakers are and the potential it has. I actually liked the stock sound and the HK tweeters and speakers I think will be a nice upgrade from that. Really looking for a little more clarity and I think that should do it.