Jolbaru_LGT

I usually do under the door panels. It always works for me

So, I just got a Harman Kardon speaker upgrade for my Legacy GT Wagon, off of someone from fb. All except I'm pretty sure this setup is from a Legacy GT Sedan. The Dual Voice "sub" is what looks like goes in the rear deck of the sedan. So, what came from the seller is the HK front door tweeters and brackets, the HK front door Mids, the rear door mids and tweeters, and that useless to me sedan Sub. I have an aftermarket Alpine Dual DIN with the factory under the seat sub. So, it has a harness that plugs in between the Alpine radio and factory wiring harness and under the seat sub. My questions are: Do I need to get this HK rear sub and grille for the wagon? Also, do I need an HK amp? Just trying to get everything together that I need before I attempt this. I'm pretty sure everything is unplug/plug and play, but I want to make sure I'm getting full use of this system. I know I can get 3rd party speakers and stuff, but I'd like to just keep it simple with this. Unless of course that HK rear sub is completely useless in anyone's opinion. Thanks in advance!

Uh, that's troublesome.. Because my job is literally less than 5 mins away. Ugh, other than parking it and getting a sh1tbox for these short trips, or getting a different job, any advice?

Sounds good. How involved is removing that AVCS union bolt filter(S)?

Just wondering if the AVCS needs a clean or not. I’ve got 270,000 miles original and wondering if it has to be done or not. Or if I should wait until the timing belt to do it? Looks like an involved project. Only reason I ask is because I was looking to delete that union bolt filter. Then I went down a rabbit hole. Lol thanks!

Is there a torque spec for the 8mm bolts that hold the garnish on? Like inch lbs or anything?

I Pmed you.. definitely interested

Well, I would be interested. Let me know!

So, I just got it open. It was jammed with kinda thick black plastic. I’m not sure where the plastic came from but it got stuck in the clasp that grabs on to the striker. Only after holding down the release and using a pry bar did it finally open. So, I replaced the latch and the handle. But the handle was a PITA because I had to take off the garnish. I proceeded to snap 3-4 bolts just by loosening those little bolts. Now, I’ve got a wonky and not entirely sealed garnish. I messed up some plastic that holds in the bolts as well. So I’m sure it’s junk. It’s probably due to mention in another thread, but I RTV Siliconed the gap that was left temporarily. Now, I know that’s temporary and I have to replace it. Question is, do I try and buy a JDM garnish off of eBay, or just rebuild one with a dealership piece. If I go the dealership route I’m going to need to paint it, or have it painted, and get a slew of new bolts and nuts and other parts, then remove and swap out a bunch of trim, emblems and what not. For anyone who’s had to go that route, which would you recommend, and why? I mean I feel like I’ve got a working hatch now, but a shitty trim piece.

Kinda just want to get the new latch in hand and drill through whatever's clasping onto the striker. Pulverize it and hope it lets go. I'm just tearing up my hand trying to move something I can't see, in hopes it moves a clasp I can barely see. Really at a loss here. The hatch closes entirely for now so that's good.

Here's the part that snapped. (That's a eBay photo of the entire latch, btw) So, I don't know if that's affecting it not opening? I'm trying my best to reach behind there blindly to find the edgy part. If anyone has a pic they can circle of what I'm trying to move that would be great. But since the unlock mechanism is broken would that affect the lever I'm trying to move?

I feel like if I knew how that latch clamps onto the U shaped striker, I could move it one way or the other… almost feel like cutting that striker off.

Nope didn’t do it. Almost… but it’s not releasing by moving that part.

2005 Legacy GT wagon.. My rear hatch won't open. It's stuck with a little bit of play front to back. No matter what I do, it won't open. I've gotten into the rear panel which exposes the latch from the inside, and I can unlock it for the most part. What I mean is, I found a broken piece of white plastic from the latch assembly. It looks like a piece that's connected to the unlocking bar. Either way, the whole latch has got to be replaced. The hand lever from the outside of the hatch doesn't spring back anymore, so I'm not sure if the wire is even connected to the latch. Regardless, I've got to get it open. But I just can't seem to find a way. I've searched the internet and there's no help. Everything I find seems to say just open the back panel, flip the locking switch down and then open it from the outside. Well, it won't open from the outside. I kinda feel like I have to jimmy the clasp that's holding onto the striker. But, I don't know what to use, to how to get at it. I guess any advice at this point would really help. Thanks!

That looks like it. Thank you!

Does anyone know the name or part # of this mudflap? I need the RH side. It goes on the rear, near the side skirt right before the bigger mudflap.

Thanks! Poly or Rubber?

So, I just completed the struts all around, and 1/2" saggy butt spacers. But my butt is still saggy. So, I looked at my trailing arms, and the bushings in front of the arm look shot. Now, my question is, it looks like there are a couple of options. I see pretty Spec B Trailing Arms, but the prices range between 600-1k for a complete set, even used. I'm not liking that. I know Aluminum is lighter, but the advantage to the steel ones? Not sure if it's worth all that labor. I see there's a method where you torch out the old ones and put in new ones. How's that work for anyone who's tried it? I had a Volvo 240 where you could make a tool to press out the TABs and it worked decent. Not sure if anything like that is available DIY or otherwise. Finally, poly or OEM rubber? Thanks a million in advance as usual. -Joel

I went and ordered 1/2" Saggy Butt spacers. Hope that's good! Also got KYB rear mounts. As, the OEM's were almost x3 the price. Stuck with OEM for the front mounts, because that's a little more important/used. Turned out to be a 1k project for parts only. I did however replace all the struts and inner/outer tie rods. Yeesh

For the saggy butt spacers, where do you install them, and what size do you go with?

Gear is the Rack and Pinion Rack Gear (Left)

What are Saggy Butt spacers? Ok... I see them. Why? And what size? Lol...

So, I basically need to rebuild the rack with inner and outer tie rods. That's what my alignment guy told me. I see there's a buttload of parts I'd need, correct? The power steering fluid doesn't leak, btw and I'm wondering what the best way to do this? Should I just order all the parts from Subaru and go for it? I know there's inner and outer tie rods and boots and clamps, gears, washers and bushings. All in all I've got like 19 parts in my Subaru cart. Seems daunting. But then there's the oil seals. Do those too? I guess I'm confused, and I don't want to mess up the ordering. Or would it be easier to just get a rebuilt rack, and some new tie rod ends? Any help or links would help. I'm at a loss right now. Thanks!

So, I'm just going the KYB route for now for struts all around. Save some money while I consider where I'm going with my "build" lol... So, for all those who went this route, should I just get the loaded KYB strut plus assembly, and just swap them in like that? Or, get the Excel G struts, take the old OEM Springs and get new tophats, bellows, and use the old housings? Should I be looking at better springs? I know the loaded is easy. I just don't want to get the loaded assembly just to find out the springs are crap, or the tophats suck. Thanks again!