Jolbaru_LGT

So, today I got the Cusco Lower Arm Bar Type I Brace, and I'm wondering how difficult the install is? It looks like you just tap out the bolts from the control arm and put it all back together. But, it also looks like there's a lot of potential for it to shift and misalign through the bolt holes. I'm wondering if anyone did this install before? Should I put it on jack stands and try it/are ramps ok? I've never messed around with the control arms before, so I don't know. The control arms are pretty new, so no rust or anything. Might just have my alignment guy do it, if it's too risky or I need a lift. Last thing I want is to start it, and not be able to finish it. Thanks!

Ok, basically this clip attaches to the inner race of the CV axle. It's so the axle doesn't pop out of the differential. The Subaru parts website seemed to think what I needed was part #28333A or #28433AJ01A with a suppression of #28433FE000 Prop Shaft Snap Ring. CIRCLIP. That clearly didn't fit, and there's no play between the shaft race and the clip is slightly thicker than it needs to be. (That is the wrong clip that's pictured, clip diameter is too big, overall diameter is too small) Now, in going to the dealership in person, the guy at the parts counter said I needed #28033FA000. Which is a part number I've never seen before, but their dealership parts locator seems to be a more advanced BETA software than I have access to. In checking at home, the Subaru website said it wouldn't fit my car. Ugh. So, why not take a chance? I'm at a loss otherwise. I've contacted a couple CV rebuild places and they don't know what to say or what direction to point me in. Even Raxles said he had no clue. That no one ever replaces the rears, so it never comes up. Basically, I installed the refurbished(by me) OE CV axle yesterday without the clip on. It didn't even cross my mind that I needed it, and the old clip wasn't on the used axle(s). My old clip must have gotten lost in the differential when I popped it out. When I went to drive the car around, I heard a "pop" and lost power. Almost like the clutch was messed up. I had more rpms than power and I had no idea what was wrong. Almost like driving a weird video game. So, I stopped and propped it up, looked and the axle was slightly out of the differential. Meaning there was no power to the RR, maybe the whole rear differential, I'm not sure. That's when I went searching for the clip. Which was no where to be found. Must have stayed in the differential and got chewed up. It's pretty soft metal, and when draining it to search for it with a magnet, plenty of metallic particles in the oil. So, this is where I'm at Subaru said they'd have it Sat so that's all I've got right now...

So, in replacing the rear CV axle, I discovered the retaining ring that clips onto the CV axle doesn't fit. The axle is a used OE one from a guy on the forum, and Subaru gave me a part for the ring that doesn't fit. It's too big and snug. Not sure what to do, the car is up on jacks and we can't find a part that works anywhere it seems. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! The part Subaru gave me was Part Number: 28433AJ01A Supersession(s): 28433FE000... CV Joint Retaining Ring

So, I'm hearing a rattling near the front of the engine when I close the door. I'm sure it makes a lot of noise when I'm driving, but it's hard to pinpoint all the rattles most of the time. Anyways, I've located it down to a heat shield on the bottom of the engine, which I can barely poke with a stick, so that the noise is absorbed. I have yet to take off the belly pan and investigate, but it looks pretty rusty and crusty down there. I thought I'd ask for anyone's help with either a diagram of the exhaust components, or advice on how to tackle it. I'll investigate it further another day, because it's currently on jack stands, as I'm doing the rear brakes waiting for a caliper to arrive. Thanks in advance!

No, I haven't. easy to do? Do I need to replace the fluid or anything like that?

Hi, so it looks like I've got a leak at the power steering pump. Wondering how I can fix this easily and painlessly. The reservoir was at or a bit below "low cold." I just topped it off to "cold max" with Amsoil ATF. I have a feeling it's been leaking for a while, but I've just replaced my timing belt and cleaned the engine pretty well, so the crusty oil soak is new. Any help or suggestions would be great!

Greaseable? With zerk fittings? I’ve never heard of bushings having that. Do I want that?

Hi, so my brother(PO) mentioned he previously upgraded the rear sway to a Subaru JDM 19mm. I’ll confirm it with a caliper tomorrow, but I’m wondering where to find replacement poly bushings?

So, I'm deciding to replace the rear suspension control arms. The lowers. It looks like there's one bushing on it, closer to the driveshaft side of things. Anyways, it looks easy, but what am I in for? I've already ordered the Mevotech complete arms,(because cheaper) from RA. Because I don't want to mess around with pressing out any bushings. But when ordering the bolts and nuts from the dealership, I see another washer, and an alignment camber adjusting eccentric? Do I need to replace these? And is my alignment going to be messed up from even attempting it? Basically, I just want to be able to finish the job correctly without having to do an alignment. Oh, and I have an AVO rear lower chassis underbody brace kit I'd like to install, hence the reason for the new control arms. The AVO brace looks like it connects to the arm, so I thought it should mostly be fresh. It's a little worn and sloppy in play. But I see the instructions for the kit mentions marking the camber bolts before removing. Should I just keep all the old nuts and bolts? Sorry for all the questions... Thanks in advance!

Well, the megazip link looks mega complicated. I appreciate the effort tho. I'm trying to organize the parts via subaru website, and I'm almost in over my head. https://parts.wildesubaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Wagon/49238451__6028582/REAR-AXLE-DRIVE-SHAFT/B13-281-02.html So far, I've got this: For the rear outer CV axle boot... PROP SHAFT SNAP RING. 723245020 Quantity: $6.43 CV JOINT BOOT 28423AG00A Quantity: $16.96 CV JOINT BOOT BAND 23242GA410 Quantity: $6.05 CV JOINT BOOT BAND 23242GA400 Quantity: $6.05 Does that look like everything? What about a CV Axle shaft seal? Do I need that?

Lol.. I know what you’re saying. But this project is adding up. To do both sides, it’s x2 and I’m not seeing that this boot is a kit or anything. So I’d have to find the clips and rings and all that. Grease. Should I assume whatever rings, clips and whatever I have on the inners, fit the outers?

So, I’m rebuilding the rear CV axles. I’ve got a generic boot kit for the rear inners, but the rear outer boot has a different looking bellows. I was wondering if anyone knew about this, or a part number? The only one I’m seeing is like a $40 part from the stealership.

So wait, everyone seems to say aftermarket rear CV axles are shorter in length than OEM? Can anyone actually confirm that? Seems to me that RA lists many that measure 30 5/8” overall compressed length. Does anyone have an OEM to measure for comparison? Also, is the part different from auto to MT? I see some on fleaBay that say OEM or JDM but don’t specify AT/MT. Is buying a used one and sending it in for a rebuild a good idea? My car is a DD and I don’t have time/another car to wait that long. Also when it’s all said and done, buying used axles and sending them in for a rebuild isn’t exactly cheap either. Plus, what if you get the wrong part in the first place?

That's a lot to go through, and a lot are "access denied" or broken links.

Any brand that’s recommended?

I did both of the rear wheel bearings, and coated the areas in question with good amounts of Anti-Sleaze. I also do have a pneumatic air hammer.

Rust really isn't an issue with mine. Even though it's a daily driver in WI. My brother got the initial rust proofing when he ordered the car and it's solid. Uh... he also mentioned he replaced the front CV axles and never the rears. All I know is that it's loud when driving and there's play when you twist the axle by hand. I can't see any other reason for that noise, and there shouldn't be any play.

Hi, so I'm doing the rear CV axles. Both of them, I figure. The PO said they were never done with 250,000 miles. There's a very loud noise coming from RR, like a click or tire that's been sitting, and when I physically twist the CV axle clockwise/CC, there's a clicking noise. 99.9% sure that's it. The LR seems ok, but I'm going to do it anyways... Anyways, I'm getting a Milwaukee Tool V12 ratcheting 3/8" lithium ion to make the job easier. Any advice? Or warnings? Is the parking brake shoes going to be an issue? Any help or advice would be great! Any brand of CV Axle that you'd use? Autozone? Rock Auto? Stealership? It's a 5MT all original. Thank you in advance, Joel

So, my engine is pushing 250,000 miles. I check my oil daily and change it with Rotella, and OEM Subaru filters at 3K. I replace the banjo filters, turbo side every 50K and the other one at every time I do the timing belt, instead of just deleting them. Original turbo and all that. Anyways, my question is, if the engine takes a dump, I'm not crushing it. I'd rather spend 1.5-2K replacing the engine than that. What would you do, as far as engine replacements? Is this the time to get an upgraded engine and push some upgrades? Like a bigger turbo, 6MT, etc. Or, just get a new stock rebuilt engine? I guess there's a lot of "what-if" variables, but I'm wondering what others have done, or would do. I know these cars can go for quite a long time, but I should probably set up a savings account and prepare for the worst.

Alright, so maybe I don't have 290. With that reality check, the VF52 sounds perfect. Now, what else is recommended to upgrade with it? Fuel delivery? A different TMIC?(again I'd like it to fit the stock engine cover) and a heat shield? Obviously a tune. But I'd like to gather the funds and slowly buy the required parts. And I wouldn't like to mess with the air intake.

I did try and bend it up, I think it just weakened it. So it sagged back down

So, my LGT is stage 2 pushing 290hp. It's had a tune, and it runs pretty good. Now, everything else is pretty much stock. Stock TMIC, original turbo, engine was never messed with, and I just did the Aisin timing belt. Well, I did just upgrade to a Perrin recirculating BOV. But that's about it. Would upgrading the turbo be a good thing? Or am I making it less reliable? I'd also assume I'd need a tune, and I believe my brother (P.O.) had somebody else do it for him. I don't own the device or software. What would I have to do? Is there an upgraded turbo that's worth it, where I wouldn't be pushing it too much? I guess reliability is a factor, but I'd love about +30hp. Thanks in advance!

So there’s no fix, and it’s not hurting anything?

Yeah I have taken the cover off many times, guess I never paid attention to where they connect or what they are.

what is that? Part of the air conditioning? Or?.... A part number or link for a spacer would help.