Jolbaru_LGT

I'm wondering if there's a fix for these sagging lines? They were originally spaced out fine, but the top one is sagging onto the bottom one. Is there a spacer bracket they make or any way to fix it? Thanks in advance...

Eh, I’ve defended the engine cover before and it’s not purely visual IMHO, it locks into the ducting and serves a pretty good purpose cooling and keeping the hot things away from the cool bits. I’m glad to have it.

It's my opinion that everything the engineers designed has a purpose. You could leave the heat shield off, but why? It's very light and blocks heat and debris from the components like you mentioned. Some people argue the engine cover does nothing, I tend to disagree. I had a friend that thought you didn't really need a belly pan. Lol, then his alternator blew from water damage. I'm from the school where if it's available, and OEM, put it on. If it's broken or compromised, replace it.

I’m not sure what year, and model you have but if you go to the local Subaru dealership, either online or in person, (wouldn’t really do over the phone) you could figure it out. For me, this might help. But I can’t confirm fitment. 44022AA123 https://parts.wildesubaru.com/a/Subaru__Legacy/__6028480/PROPELLER-SHAFT/B13-199-01.html

Nope. Went on like a dream. You’ve gotta remove the exhaust heatshield and unbolt the mid pipe to get enough room to slide it out the back. I luckily had a new exhaust donut that goes where the mid pipe meets the down pipe. That donut was crumbled and crappy. The hardware from the exhaust shield was fine. A little rusty but ok. The hardware where the down pipe meets the mid pipe was also fine, pretty robust stuff there. So, I’d recommend new Subaru dealership nuts and bolts, and spacers that hold the driveshaft in and that donut. You’re not going to get any of that with the DSS driveshaft. Only a really nice driveshaft.

Might be? Worth a check. FWIW, I had a vibration that stopped when I replaced my shitty moog sway bar endlinks with Kartboy. Brand new moon’s were toast after 10,000 or less miles. They couldn’t handle the upgraded 21mm rear sway bar. But in your case, I’d check those, the CV joints for play, lift the car, and physically shake the wheels, maybe shake the steering rack back and forth, then the driveshaft. Could also be a bad tire. It’s hard to say.

Yeah the center support bearing and donut was toast! You definitely don’t want that to blow when you’re driving. Especially going 60-80mph on the freeway. I thought the driveshaft was going to poke through the floor and come up via the center storage thing between the seats. It was that violent and sudden. No warning... Yeah get the serviceable one. Tell your mechanic about it, and make sure he gets the proper new nuts and bolts from Subaru.

Mine is perfect, no issues.

LOL, thanks. I think I've got it now.

For some reason I can't send private messages. I'll write something send it, and I won't get a receipt in the "sent" folder. I have an iMac, and I've tried both Safari and Chrome.

So, did that fix it? I have the same problem. But I’m hesitant to take it all apart, again. Shoes are a pain.. if I could get away with a spray lube without undoing everything, that would be ideal. If anyone has an opinion, I’d appreciate it.

I did get mine from the driveshaft store. And yes, the Grinding noise improved. If you hear a grinding like this and think it could be the driveshaft or center bearing, it doesn’t take much to go under the car and check. Yes, you have to put it on jack stands and weasel your hand in there, or disconnect the Exhaust heat shield and move it a bit so you can get your hand in there and wiggle it around. It shouldn’t wiggle or move, it should be solid. To put it in perspective, mine destroyed with 237,000 miles on the clock but was probably a bit wiggly for a good 20,000 miles prior. I got lucky, but I can see how it could leave you stranded or worst case scenario, rip through the heatshield or exhaust. I’ve heard of worse things happening, like the driveshaft catapulting the car upwards, but I believe the design here is good enough that it wouldn’t happen like that. But you never know.

In response to gscw2009 I can't seem to send PM responses... I hope he sees this.. Well, I found out my brother replaced the transmission mount with a group N. But he never replaced the motor mounts or pitch stop mount. So, I figured out the extra NVH was from that. I replaced the motor mounts with group N and the pitch stop mount with a Grimmspeed. The noises got better. So that’s what I think it was. Oh, and I also changed the transmission oil with Amsoil. On another note, my center bearing blew and I have to replace the entire driveshaft. I’m not sure if the noise has anything to do with that, but I’ll find out when I replace it and get to drive it.

Yes, and it should arrive today. I also ordered new bolts from Subaru.

Yeah the hint and the outcome weren't too far off. It's kind of an "oh crap!" moment where you just need to retire the car as quickly as possible and call for a tow. Stupidly, I kept driving it at a limp. I hope I didn't damage anything else. Don't do what I did.

So, this 21 piece "deluxe" kit didn't actually fit the arm. Wasn't enough room to get the setup on. So, I took the arms to a shop and they basically said the cost of pushing them out would be more than a new set. I was going to try and torch the rubber out and cut the metal sleeve on the bushing but decided against it. I went with the Rock Auto specials with a lifetime warranty. Mevotech or whatever. Lifetime is wishful thinking but at 60/arm I thought it was a good option. The Subaru ones were 100/arm and kinda looked worse than the RA specials. Whatever. From what I've heard it's not a super important piece where you need Subie or whiteline or whatnot. When taking off the old piece, that upper bolt/nut was pretty stuck on there! I couldn't get it, there was really no room to get a decent grip on it, and it's on a weird offset angle. So, I just used a reciprocating saw and cut it off. There's enough room to get under it on the inside of the piece near the support by the nut side and saw it off upwards. Be sure to put a jack under the hub or whatever to take pressure off the suspension. It will fall once the upper bolt is cut. Oh, and it also helped to take the lower bolt off and free the arm. You can wiggle it a little and get a better shot at it.

So, with all that being said, is there an appropriate inverter for use with the rated output of the alternator? Not sure what the rated output of a stock alternator even is.. Or just don't use over a combined 120 Watts.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/adding-12v-outlet-trunk-179400.html?p=3784474

I've been wondering what this is? Is it a power socket thing? For accessories? I'm stumped, but curious as to it's function. It's located in the secret stash spot, in the driver's side rear of the wagon. Right by the taillights. Thanks

It's possible notchy shifting has been like that for a while, and I just haven't noticed it. I bought the car about 30,000 miles ago. For me, what you described went away when I did a pitch stop(dogbone) upgrade. Since then, I've upgraded to group N motor mounts and that "kick" you described went away even more. What I have been noticing is a little grind when quickly shifting to 4th, that went away a little when I removed a few of the spacers the PO put at the bottom of the clutch pedal's travel to adjust the clutch a bit to his liking. Might have been related, might not. But for history's sake, one day I remember being on the freeway and hitting a bump, and something completely shattered from under the car and went jettison behind me. Almost like I hit a plastic part from my belly pan, and it went everywhere. I thought that was odd, and I didn't know if I ran over something or if it was actually from my car. So, I just kind of ignored it when I thought nothing was visually wrong. It's possible something broke then, and I've been driving around on it oblivious. Come to think of it, the 4th gear weirdness started after that. Anyways, as far as obvious signs, yesterday, I just heard a loud "bang!" And then, almost like hitting a giant rumble strip, which got slower the more I decreased my velocity. The armrest cubby was going crazy.(up down/up down) So, I pulled over and limped a little but the noise went away completely, eventually. So I was able to drive home. The drive shaft must have disconnected completely from the rear of the car, and I must have been in FWD mode.

Ok, good to know the entire deal is toast. Now my questions are: Should I get this aftermarket one? https://driveshaftstore.com/index.php/2005-subaru-legacy-driveshaft-21256.html Or stick with the Subaru dealership shaft? Also, is this something I can do myself? I'm fairly capable, but I'm unsure if it needs alignment marks and how you would even do that? Or is it just, bolt up and go?

So when driving today, something sounded horrible right under the storage cubby between the front seats. Almost like I was going over a rumble strip. Or, like a small safety cone got lodged under the car. I pulled over, but was in a really bad spot on the freeway. So, I kept going down the freeway, limping with the hazards on. Long story short, the noise got better, and eventually went away. When I got home however, and looking under the car, the rubber driveshaft donut right under the catalytic was completely destroyed. Since the exhaust is in the way, along with the heat shield, I couldn't get a proper picture. But I got one good enough until I can start taking it apart tomorrow to asses the damage. Now, where do I go from here? Are these parts replaceable, or do I have to buy the whole propeller shaft? I can't even see where I can drop the exhaust from. Any help would be great. The P.O.(my bro) said he never had to fix that. Meaning it's original with 238,000 miles. Probably due for an explosion of sorts. Here's a blurry pic, I should be able to get better evidence tomorrow.

But it’s still a risk that it’s just not possible. Kinda over my head at this point.

Hey, sorry for the late response. I kinda gave up on the project. I’m sure with determination and a few hundred dollars I could get it going. But I don’t really feel like going through all that. Yet at least.. The maestro on my Alpine ilx-207 is probably another $200 option and then all the wire splicing or connector replacing. Tapping into the OBD2 and all that. I mean, then I’d probably want to get rid of the cubby and put in a 7” touchscreen. So that’s 100 for the JDM adapter, 200-300 for the VGA touch screen. Then, a $200 Alpine external monitor control. All to see some gauges my instrument panel already has! There might be a vacuum connection somewhere for boost info, and honestly I’m totally making up the numbers of cost, but I could see it going into 500-1000 dollar range. While it would be cool to see all of that and have a split screen for movies or nav, I don’t know.. I’m going to say I’ll put that project on hold until I win the lottery so I can pay a car audio place to do it. I’ve got plenty of other things to do on my 235,000 mile LGT to keep me busy. Like all the old crusty bushings in the back of the car.

Yeah, the Bushings and hardware cost about $70 picked up at the local Scooby Doo dealership. I haven't really saved any money yet, from just doing the bushings, because I did buy the 21 piece deluxe kit. But if I were to get the entire suspension piece,(Option A) I'd still need new hardware. That hardware just looks super crusty. It's also mind boggling how many bushings there are back there. I'm almost certain I'll need the toolkit again in the future. thanks for all the advice!