KZJonny

Glad to find this thread. Started to smell a little fuel recently, and after confirming no drop on the ground and nothing leaking in the engine bay (!!!) I figured the last thing left would be a leak around the pump. So, this morning before work I pulled the seat and pump covers, and sure enough, there is just a little fuel around the pump. Bah!! Cleaned it all up and took a couple loops around the block. It just *seeps* a tiny bit where the pump clamp secures the pump onto the gasket below. Took the OB to work. Yay.... At least I am pretty sure I assembled it in the correct order. Re-reading the thread makes me wonder. Can't understand why I would have 2 months with nothing wrong, then all of a sudden a tiny leak. The only thing that comes to mind is that it appears the rubberized fender/rocker paint I used to coat the tank before install is *not* fuel resistant. So..... maybe there was a little bit of that on the gasket flange, which turned to goo and is leaking a little? Either way, pump assembly comes out tonight after work to take a look. Fingers crossed it is just a matter cleaning everything up a re-seating everything?! I've got a 1.5 hour drive through the country this weekend to go pick up a little hobby lathe I found used and was really hoping to do it in the fun car.

Maybe it's regional? I don't *really* remember what was in my '02 Outback, but I think it was blue. Both of my '05s have always had blue fluid. I sincerely doubt it makes much of a differerence at this point. There isn't a car being made in the world any longer where the coolant doesn't touch aluminium. Probably iron in the mix somewhere as well. The protective additive packages are no doubt better than they used to be, but I think a well flushed system attached to a rad that hasn't corroded away, and is refilled with clean fluid of any colour is going to be fine. The days of the harsher additives that were designed mainly to keep iron blocks from rusting but that caused some problem with aluminium are long gone.

I wouldn’t worry about mixing the two blue coolants together. As far as I know, the colour indicates the type of coolant; it’s ‘chemistry’ so to speak. Eg, all blue coolants should be the same/similar, likewise all ‘red’ coolants should be similar, and mixable. Sometimes fluid types are super important, like atf in Subaru automatics. (Use only Subaru or Idemitsu HP!!!) others are not so much. Start a discussion about oil if you really want to stir people up.

Nothing *I* did, but picked up my car from the body shop, after they took care of the minor collision damage from a few weeks ago. Like it never happened! As a bonus, they did the whole front bumper bar, which was definitely pretty chipped up and in need of paint. Only down side is I now have a quarter of the car that looks great, but the rest is still rusty garbage. Ah well, that is my problem to fix in the future.

The sway bar mounts that affix to the trailing arms were totally fine. Direct bolt up. The sway bar mounting point reinforcing brackets that mount to the subframe points need a hole drilled to match. That can be in either the cusco part, or the subframe. Easy fix. I’ll take some photos of mine when I have a moment, but you’d figure it out fast enough.

Hmmm. That price is a good reason to buy OEM. I'd never considered that they'd be available, and so affordable here. Didn't spent enough time digging in to those, but they're far from the priciest thing I bought in the upgrade project, so meh. Mine are blue tho!!

Don't have a stock part number, but FWIW it's worth considering getting Cusco part # (if you go with Cusco) Cusco 684 316 S Rear Harder Sway Bar Bracket The "S" is the important part, it is the kit which has the sway bar brackets AND the pointing point reinforcment plates. Maybe you'r already on it, but the price is a lot better for both as a kit than seperately, and why not. The bracket seems to be a weak point..... You DO need to drill a new hole in either it, or the brackets tho, spacing of the bolts holes is not the same between JDM/USDM.

Agreed! My Mom always told me “Great minds think alike; fools seldom differ.” So, I’m careful about who I implicate as being in league with my not uncommon foolishness!

Ha! Yeah. Guess I'm not the only one. I'll always give credit where it is due, but in this case, it was my first car. A used '91 Toyota Tercel 5 speed. The oil pal leaked a little when I got it, so I put a new one on, as well as some struts and brakes before driving it Ontario to Alberta. (Like 3700km) I didn't know too much about cars at that point, so I just checked the tire pressure after doing those jobs, packed it, and started driving. No real shakedown cruise or thorough checkup before driving across the country. To be 25 again. About 3 hours into that 4 day drive, I noticed a puddle of oil under the car and thought.... crap. Long story, it was the rear main seal, which very thankfully responded to a half litre of rubber seal treatment being dumped into the oil. A couple of top ups later, she held oil, and continued to do so for the next 10 or so years.... That car was ridiculous and started first crank no matter what the weather or how long it had sat around while I worked abroad. If it hadn't succumbed to rust, it would probably still be my winter beater. But the incident did turn me into an oil level paranoid, and I've kept shop rags tucked somewhere "safe" in my engine bay in every car ever since....

I'm not worried about that leak at all! You should definitely keep an eye on it tho, and check oil regularly. Like, at every fill up is a good idea. I keep a shop rag tucked behind the battery and oil in the back at all times. These engines are good, and a heap of fun, but from everything I've read are more sensitive to oil starvation than most, you don't want to let it get too low. The 'which parts for power' thing is a whole different can of worms, and essays have already been written on this site about what you 'need' and do not need. I'll say this tho: figure out what you want the car to be, considering how you drive it/are going to drive it. Lots of considerations here: -is it your DD? does it need to be reliable all the time? -how much money do you have? -technical skills/access to tools/place to work/friends with these things who are willing to help? -how much money do you have? -is your credit card paid off and ready to get a workout? You'll see a theme here perhaps? I can attest that my "I'm just going to replace this rusty original catback so my car is not loud enough to wake my neighbours when I go to work at 0800", turned into a hell of a lot more than that. I'm okay with it, because I had some fun money put aside for another project that got put on the backburner as this one spiralled out of control. I'd be happy to tell you about my build either here, or in a message, whichever works, it's relatively recent enough that the parts are all available and you could price them out. Have a look through some "builds" in the 4th Gen Legacy forum, the OBXT area, which is the same thing. They overlap a little. You'll get a lot of help here if you ask smart questions, after you've spent some time looking for an easy answer than has already been addressed a million times! (I've learned this. I deleted some of my old posts which were silly questions I found the answers to by looking for them casually.) Doesn't mean you shouldn't ask lots of questions, but using the site search functiong on Google helps a lot. (Ie: stage 1 parts list site:legacygt.com ) I'll also add that mine is fully a street car, is only probably only ~260-70 awhp, and is an absolute riot to drive. I've been out with others who own more mechanically stock GTs and they've been pretty surprised by how much the car has been woken up without going insane overboard chasing power. Cheers!

I would think you’ll be okay unless the tuners are lot fussier than usual. That’s a pretty normal seep for older EJs. If it isn’t going to make a mess on the dyno or present fire/smoke hazard, it should be alright. You’re not exactly tuning for mad power with just the DP.

Hm. Supergramps is a 3.6L H6 turbo, so same transmission system, but a pretty different engine. Still be very cool to see them go head to head, but really different powertrains in terms of power delivery and where they generate torque a boost, etc… I don’t think it would really be apples to apples tho. No replacement for displacement!!

Just thought of something as I looked at the photos again. If you don’t have a heat shield for the turbo (unless you just removed it for the photo) you should really consider finding one, or maybe getting a turbo blanket. Heat in that area without some kind of shielding can both heat soak the intercooler, or cook those power steering hoses… cheap insurance to do one or the other. I went full paranoid and did both….

I think I must have been under some kind of impression that the JDM Spec B endlink bracket was unique somehow. Seems not? So, if just depends on how complete the kit you got was. Around me, they mainly seem to come with the swaybar and mounting brackets sold separately, so I had to get my own (cusco) brackets, then got the mounting point reinforcements at the same time, since it all had to come from Japan anyway. Fits my aftermarket swaybar just fine now. Had to drill a new hole to make the support brackets work, but not a big deal there. traildogck on outback.org apparently makes then as a direct fit for usdm cars, if needed.

Came across this gem again a little while ago: Note that Sudbury isn't exactly a tiny place, it's lik 170k people, give or take. This tour includes most of the major roads in the city. Not that I've ever felt the need to defend staying at stock height with my car, but now I can at least point to this when people say "lower it!!" Hah! Granted, I practically never take the GT back home, so the OB gets to tackle these road most time I'm visiting family. She does go up once in a while tho. Spec B struts and springs actually handle pretty well in my estimation for a street car, so until they fail and 'newish' ones from Japan dry up, I think I'll stick with them.

I have the trailing arms and aluminium control arms only. Speed sensors had wires cut, but no problem installing USDM versions.... You need some adaptors from Cusco, since there is nowhere to mount a sway bar endlink unless yours came with the Spec B type brackets still installed. In which case you also need the odd Spec B swaybar. Don't know anything about the diff cradle, but I would very much suspect the bushes would all be the same? Probably the serious JDM ones would be metal bushes tho, no?

It's easier to get to than the rear oil galley port that's at the back of the engine? You could retain the stock and put a T or Y splitter in, or just ignore it and only use the aftermarket gauge? I'd be curious to find a workaround for the dashlight, just cause I wouldn't wan to have A) use tape on the cluster or B) look at it being on all the time.

For a few more dollars, there is the silicon/aluminium version that won't wear out no matter how many times you install/uninstall it. Recommended by JMP who built my turbo, and it sealed up first time, no hassle. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-738g?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnP-ZBhDiARIsAH3FSReTgMZl2G04JcuoX9S8bby4rBxtmvLE7tLFEoUcgvzev-ILPdC4l5saAqZqEALw_wcB Available elsewhere, just the first link I found.

I don’t at all mean to be pedantic, but would you really need a LHD Levorg, or given the modularity of the chassis, just a fairly complete LHD parts donor? I suppose it’s all a bit of a moot arguement, since Levorgs aren’t sold in our market, so they’d be prohibited from import for 10 years or whatever? Or have those prohibitions become more lax over time. (Not that they ever made sense here in Canada anyway, but they still stand, I believe…)

My car is at the body shop, but I can take some measurements when I get it back next week. Only ever driven one with stock shifter and mine with a Cobb. I like the short throw better. More effort to move the stick, but even considering that, I can shift with just my fingertips.

No catalytic there, unless it's further back, closer to the flange. (probably not) Slight diff leak will be just fine. Pretty common, and and easy fix down the road. $5 seal, but a bit of an annoying job. Looks like you're all good. Open source tune should be able to take care of any CELs that might come up related to not having a cat. Might be worth asking them to delete the lines of code related to the temp sensor in the UP pipe while they are at it for when you replace the stock UP with one that doesn't have a cat. Debatebly a critical thing to do, since online legent suggests the UP cat will detonate and take out your turbo. I replaced mine as a precaution, but other seem to have been just fine for a long time on stock. Or look up the 'resistor fix' for the temp sensor. Many have done this, myself included and the results are just fine.

Yeah. Exact same. Didn't realize you'd installed other maps. Just throw the appropriate octane Stage 2 map on, and enjoy the additional little bit of power! I would guess that if that is all the hardware you've got, you'll be fine on the OTS map, but a pro tune will get you sorted. I've been one Cobb Stage 2 with an EL header, UP, DP custom turbo and full exhaust, and all safe so far, based on monitoring with the AP. Enjoy the ride, and good luck with the tune!

So you have a professionally built transmission (which is working great) and an engine they built which failed again. After proper break in!!?! I am not a lawyer and have no clue. But I am so sorry to hear that dude. I can only imagine your frustration. If public support can help, I’m in, and bet the community here has your back. I’m only good for parts I could help you scrounge if needed, but reach out.

I would guess that the atv300.ptm is "automatic tranmission v.300" so, yeah. probably the right one. Sorry, but it's been a bit since I did this to my car. To the best of my knowledge, there are no v.400 maps for Stage 2, those were all post fiasco..... To be clear, I'm not a tuner, just a guy that turns wrenches, and follows instructions when it comes to electronics, so while this worked for me, I have throw out the disclaimer that doing what the software tells you to do shouldn't harm anything. No promises. You DO however, definitely need that Stage 2 tune for the aftermarket DP. Ideally you do have a cat in it, since there isn't any meaningful power gain from going catless in an otherways stock car, and the lack of a cat might cause some CELs down the road. That of couse is up to you, and the hardware you have.

It's reasonably easy, but if you don't have the management software for the AP on your computer already, I would suggest trying to find an older version than the current one, which (I think, no evidence to back this up) has been updated to reflect the "green power" fiasco restrictions on tuning. Ymmv. If you can't find a download for that, I could probably dig up the one I found a while ago and send it to you.... Then, something like this: -install AP Manager -use APM to find the file/map you need and load it onto the AP -> pretty easy, it's a fairly intuitive bit of software -plug AP with desired map into the car, and follow the directions is gives you If, like me, you didn't realize there is a second set of "green connectors" below the glove box, there is. The other set is kind of tucked up behind the fuse box, or thereabouts. They need to be connected to flash the ECM. As stated elsewhere, there are probably Utube videos to help you out. I just mucked around until I found the connectors. Have a fully charged battery, and/or chuck a charger on the battery while flashing. Doesn't take long, but the word on the street is that if your battery is weak and dies midway thorugh, you brick the ECU. Again, I can't speak to it, but did use a charger just in case. Probably a good idea, as I found out not long after my battery was garbage and wasn't holding a charge. Guess I got lucky.