KZJonny

Yeah. From the diagrams, I can see the lines to the filter look like their up top on the return side of things, so not easily visible from below. Funny, coz I've actually got a friends blown up 5EAT in my driveway now, and I suppose I could have checked that..... Juust saying, for the low cost of those hoses and the mess your gonna make changing them anyway, might be worth considering just doing both of them at the same time. If one is worn and leaking, the other can't be far behind. Good time for a fluid dump and refill using the trans oil pump as well....

AFAIK there are only 2 available hoses that come up from the trans and go to the ATF cooler in the rad. Someone with an auto car can step in and correct me. https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-cooler-line-45520ag03a https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-cooler-line-45520ag01a The one you've circled looks to me like the second one, but you'll be able to tell. The difference in length should be a giveaway.

Can you specify the year and model? I am pretty sure all LGT autos had a filter in drivers side fender that had some additional ATF coolant lines running around, but I've never owned one. Is this by chance a non-turbo car?

Part # for Whiteline PS bushing kit? I assume it would be the same for all BP/BL cars, but figure I should ask before having anything shipped.

Wow! Good on them for fessing up and standing behind their warranty. Good to be able to share a positive result when going back to a shop.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_39/cooling_system/engine_cooling/illustration_2/ Looks like part #16?

This is the trans fluid hose going to the filter? Or the one coming off the main lines? Either way, this is one of those rare instances where running in to your local dealer may be the easiest thing to do… the price markup is probably worth the convenience, and it will be molded correctly.

Post your results, I am genuinely curious as I recently picked one up from a local owner who went to a VDC car, so can’t use it any more. I haven’t found braking to be especially deficient, but some improvement in pedal feel might be nice. Briefly considered the STI BMC/booster swap, but hope this is sufficient.

Sure. If nobody swoops in to pick it up. I'll keep an eye on the listing. I'm a little embarrassed to say I had to google map Rhode Island... I had a general idea, but wouldn't have been able to put my finger on it on a map! Free bump.

Dang! That’s 10 hours driving from me, or I’d come get it. Round trip fuel kinda ruins the good price…. GLWS tho!

Pretty sure this is it, if it maybe helps anyone following along. I think Ima pick one up for my OB, since the starter has been a bit lazy for a while now, and I suspect it's just age.... https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/55909014.html Good site, but be wary when searching. A part they have listed for a LEAGACY also fits a Legacy. That said they came right back to me with an answer when I asked. The pricing on the website is slightly cheaper than their Ebays sales as well, which is perhaps worth knowing.

Had some ‘nice’ weather…. As in 0-2 C, but it wasn’t raining for a change. Finished the roof sheathing and got almost all of it covered in a waterproof breathable membrane ($500 CAD/roll!!!). So, while it won’t be perfect, it shouldn’t rain inside the garage when it rains outside now…. Couple little jobs to do, and finish the eaves and fascia on the left hand side, and I can park the GT in there for her winter slumber…. Metal sheeting for the roof exterior is on order and should arrive in a week and a bit. We’ll see what the weather brings after that…. Did I mention that I’m terrified of heights? This is not a job I’d do for money. Just for want of a space and love of old cars.

Pm sent.

Genuinely curious about the price difference at the moment. I don't remember paying a whole lot more for the the AEM. So... if it is regarded, even by the guys you're talking to as being the better option, then why not? As always, spending someone else's money is easy. Perhaps it is something more technical like higher fuel line pressure? But I would assume that a tune takes that into consideration, although I also figure the FPR would equalize that in any case. (Something along the lines of more pump than you need.... and I do have a slightly more than stock turbo etc....)

Fwiw - I was told by the tuner I’m working with, (Dave at Cryotune, so someone who sees a *few* Subarus) to get the AEM340 fuel filter and avoid the DW unit. Didn’t ask why exactly, he just said they had better results with them, and would prefer to tune with it. This is a sentiment I’ve seen a couple times on here. Ymmv.

Slow your roll dude. Unless you're building a firebreather, you'll be juuuust fine on a stock engine block, as long as you take good care of it. Like Max said, a short block is the block halves, crank, pistons and rods assembled. (bearings of course as well) For the money you'll have a hard time beating the price if YNANSB. (A long block for reference is all the same, plus new heads.) Work in reverse order of what you listed. Get the filters out of the banjo bolts (sticky/many threads on this), get the turbo checked out, and then worry about the rest.You can check for turbo shaft play by removing the downpipe and having a look, or using a micrometer. If you can move the shaft any noticeable amount by hand, do not drive it, that is no bueno. Nothing on your list aside from the turbo is critical item that will wreck your car if you don't adddress it immediately. There are plenty of used VF40s lying around, or ones that are good cores, ready to be rebuilt. I have a JMP Custom VF40 and it is plenty enough juice with some suppporting mods and a tune. His price for a standard rebuild was ~$600 USD at the time with return shipping. (Probably more now with the economy, maybe??) Look into it. It's a better price, and you get a better turbo back than an new OEM one.

Nice looking wagon! Keep the Toyota if you can afford to. It will probably not break down on you at least. One better. Keep it as your winter beater and never let that sweet looking GT see salt and sand…. All those jobs are totally doable with a decent tool set, a floor jack and some jack stands. It’ll be some money in parts, sure, but for what you paid for the car?….. I think you’ll do alright. Also, if cosmetics aren’t priority #1 right now, there are a few you can skip entirely. (My gearbox has been leaking as long as I’ve had my GT. Probably had to add a total of 200mL of gear oil in 6 years to keep it topped up…) Staying stock power will give that engine a longer life, considering it’s unknown history… Nice buy. My favourite way to get old cars at low prices is to but them from people who get jaw-dropper repair bills and just want them gone. Usually half the ‘repairs’ aren’t needed and the other half aren’t hard, if you have the tools.

Had to listen carefully, but I second the opinions that it’s the starter. Or at least I’d start there. It’s easy to access and worst case, you end up with a newly lubricated and serviced starter…. Doesn’t sound like an accessory belt/bearing problem to me.

I wonder if the hardware (minus motors and sensors, per iwire) from a top feed LGT might work, with those parts with the correct polarity swapped over? Probably too much $$$, and I didn't look at prices, if they're even available. But it might still come in less than an aftermarket kit? Edit: Idle speed control motors - $160/side (14120AA060 / 14120AA050 ) Some ambiguity here about what fits what model and year. ~$90 each for TGV/TPS sensors, with the correct polarity.... Seems like they're the same parts, from a quick search... So.... find one from an old Rex?! I figure at almost $500 USD for a retrofit, the $1000CAD ($700 USD?) ID 1050x kit looks pretty good for brand new and under warranty… (nope. Iag looks better) Too bad about the polarity not working out.

Following this topic. In no hurry to convert to top feeds but they are cheaper to service and replace at this point, so if I can find a set of OEM top feed rails (I believe a friend has a set on his parts engine he does not need....) then I'd dive down the low dollar conversion to OE parts. I'm going to need a proper tune rather than the OTS I'm using now, so might as well do all the mods at once before starting down that road.

Mine kind of had to get the boot from work areas after one knocked over a container of ABS glue and walked through it. Messy, and while I got a lot of it out, he was chewing crusted glue out of his paws for quite a while. Not the greatest probably! Glue-boy helping with plumbing. (Not the glue culprit, but his brother.)

Maybe a couple of relatively short OCIs performed with high mileage (high detergent content) synthetic might help to clean things up a little? Oil system flush is probably not advised with turbo oiling being a concern… If it was warmer, I’d offer to do the cam gear with you on a weekend. I’m in Niagara, and except for the specific cam gear tool, have all the stuff to do it…. Sounds like you need it done sooner than later and we’re about to get 2 days of rain followed by sub zero for a while.

I'd guess it's a long shot, but being drive by wire, it couldn't hurt to clean the contact area on the sensor of the pedal. I've had great success with a product called de-oxit for cleaning electronics and connections. I think there is also advice somewhere on the forum about unplugging the pedal connection to perform a reset, and also just trying to swap out with one from a known good car, or maybe a junkyard part. (I am just wondering if the ?potentiometer? on the pedal could be fouled or some such. This could also involve recalibrating the throttle body to the pedal, which should be pretty straightforward, tho I've not had to do it myself. (If the part number for the accelerator pedal matches that of and OB or non-GT Legacy they should be cheap and easy to come by.) Given that the consensus seems to be that you're dealing with a mechanical problem, it may not be the solution, but it's an easy thing to rule out at least.

Ah! I see. I was looking at trying to move just the plastic skin, not thinking that it's only the charge you need to replace over time or becuase of recall. I'd never taken it apart, so assumed the charge and the airbag were integral. From memory I do recall where those hex screws are, and hadn't thought that you could slip just the charge out by undoing the horn switch assembly. Thanks for confirming that. Definitely makes collecting a non-sticky air bag cover from a scrapyard a good option now, especially if you have a known good airbag charge unit. Carry on then!

I'll have another look at the one on my parts shelf then. I couldn't see how to separate the two parts, but then I didn't actually try and see how it comes apart. If it's as easy as few fasteners, then I need to take a very close look. My dash is good so far (touch wood) but I've got the stick air bag cover, and there are lots of BP/BL's in scrapyards right now. It might be prudent to try and find one with a warrantied dash and decent air bag just to have more spares on hand.