KZJonny

I have to agree that over 30K miles in a belt is probably too much, and 10 years definitely is. The texture and strength additive package in them is just not designed to last that long. It’ll flash out over time. So they may even look good, but at a molecular level, they’re not the same they once were, regardless of where you live. Under hood temps and heat cycling do nasty things. Would you buy 10 year old unused tires and drive aggressively on them? I assume not. On the other hand, we’re talking about accessory belts. As long as you are using a quality timing belt, and changing that at regular intervals, I don’t think you’ll have that much to worry about. Accessory belts don’t drive the water or oil pump on our cars. So, while I don’t think the $6K for a new engine is relevant to the discussion, losing your power steering sucks, and running out of power caue you didn’t realize you aren’t charging your battery would also suck. If the belt slapped around and damaged other stuff, that could certainly get spendy. (Now I think of it, I can imagine ways it would be possible, if very unlikely to take out your engine, but still….) Now if you live in the world of older school small blocks and the like, different story….

I'll try to call asap and book up a tenting site. Probably way more room than I need for a single tent and a parked car. Anyone else looking to split the space and cost of a basic site? Maybe DM me to figure out a payment split etc... I am kind of assuming that more of the day will be spent socializing/driving about, and perhaps much of the evening would be at a communal fire somewhere, so the site will really be more of the place you just go to sleep and drink coffee in the morning.

I'll yoink the ECU in any case then. Easy enough anyway, and it's small enough it won't kill me having to store it.

I used a process something like this with an old chewed up belt to remove the cam gears as well, found it helpful. https://youtu.be/vd9YeLGABJk I didn't use the vice grip method, but wished I had. I had a picture somewhere of the 3-4 different clamps I had all over the place pinching belts and holding stuff where I needed it. Also saved me the $90 I didn't have to get the Company 23 tool as well. I've also got an '05 LGT in my driveway that is being parted out. I could 100% dig out the ECM if you run into problems with yours being locked. It's from an auto... but I don't know if that matters? I think it's possible to delete/ignore transmission maps if they are there, but not easy to creat them when they are not.

Nah, not really? I can get a set from my local speed shop for like $200/pair. And that is CAD, so, like... pocket change in American pesos.

Leak down test is a very good start. Does the engine importer not provide compression figures, or any info? Not that usually do, or have to, I’ve just head that sometime it’s available. I’ve pulled and re-installed exactly 1 EJ, so I don’t have as much advise as most here, but it’s pretty simple anyway. If you have or can borrow an engine crane, it’ll make life a lot easier, but aside from that there aren’t really any exotic tools required. Getting the engine in one piece means you can adjust the timing belt before if goes in as well, which is nice. (Or replace it with a new one for piece of mind?)

I put a set of DEA/Marmon mounts in the NA Outback, and they were better than the shagged OE ones that were in there, but I have no idea how they would hold up to the extra torque from the turbo EJ. Depends on how much you flog on it? If lots: spend up and get OE (Or Group N) If not so much: try whatever brand is available and see? At least it isn't such a bad job to change them out...

Works fine. Just easier to access the factory oil press pickup point than the one at the back of the block. But, doing that will mean a permanent idiot light. So, just doing it the longer/harder way accessing the rear galley. And I’ll look at that parts, thanks! I’ll have to go back to the pinout diagrams I found somewhere to see if I can make sense of it. I know almost nothing about car stereo, so it isn’t intuitive for me to work out. I pretty much listen to CBC all day (Canadian NPR), so crazy speakers and what have you don’t do much for me. I just want to be able to patch my MP3 player in for longer road trips. (Like driving to Carlisle!!)

Correct. I have one of those adaptors somewhere, waiting to be installed. I think mine is mild steel tho, it was like $6. I’m just hoping I can install it on the rear galley to avoid having the oil light on all the time. I’ll look at the i85 cable again, but I don’t think it is what I need, unfortunately. What I have is the 07’ factory console with an aux port, and an 07? OEM radio with a true aux on mode. The wiring in the car, however is of course, 05… so I need a patch adaptor for the wiring the runs under the console and behind the radio to get the pins right. Koolaid said he didn’t have anything that would do the job. There are no RCA jacks anywhere in the setup, that I am aware of…

I used permatex ultra grey, because I had it, and the packaging said it was suitable for the purpose. I think ultra black may also be fine, but I don’t have one in front of me. If you need to get some from the store, they describe what they can tolerate on the package pretty well. When in doubt, I use Yamabond or Threebond on everything.

I would think a catalogue with AN fitting would have something that is shorter which could be swapped out for that part… maybe something that has a 45* bend to one side would give you the required clearance?

When this happened to me, it was the filler neck rusting out where it curves under the cat to meet the tank. (Also where there is a plastic sheild right next to it, that holds dirts, salt and sand against the metal!!) I always got worse when I filled up, as you describe. Worth a look, just have to take of the r/r wheel and remove the liner to see. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00GUP0OWI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title not an awful job, but you have to drop the tank at least a little to do it. I ended up going crazy and replacing th tank + all the evap lines, and made new mounting brackets for all the solenoids, since the old ones were mostly rust. Still only took an afternoon once I had all the parts collected.

That should do it. I did 2 last summer, and don’t recall even doing the DP bracket, just the pitch stop. No gasket to replace either, just rtv on the pan right on to the block. You can buy gaskets that will fit, but there isn’t one in there to start anyway. Not a lot of room no matter how you do it. I also used a jack on trans to raise everything, then put some hardwood spacers between the subframe and engine mounts to give me ~1.5” free space to get everything out and back in. Tight but totally doable.

I think as long as you’re buying decent quality, it’s more time and heat that kills belts than anything else. That is to say, I’ve never seen a seen a well manufactured belt that was properly tensioned just randomly delaminate and explode when it wasnt already ancient, brittle and cracking…. So probably any of the above brands are fine. (I have Conti belts on a stage ~2.5? engine, no problems at all.) I think I’ve seen some colour matched, kevlar-infused stuff, with ribs that are cut like teethe etc… but I don’t know where you’e get them, and I suspect are 3x times the price of a normal one. Probably better to do regular changes 3 times that trust a fancy belt for 100k….

Grimmspeed catted. It has one, but for whatever reason doesn't quite mate properly with where it's meant to attach to the trans case. I forget now what the problem was, but after 2 months of grinding away all my evenings and weekends last summer doing all the install/overhaul work.... it got put on the "F-it, let's go drive" list. Your mentioning it reminded me I either need to bend it, or fix something somewhere under there anyway.

Damnit. Add this to the list as well...

I'd buy a hat from ya if you bring some. Help take care of that old stock. Nobody would ever know what it meant, but if I ever did run across someone who did, I would at least know they'd be good to have a beer and a chat with. Ha! I'd be in for that, and happy to throw a few dollars at it. If someone makes up a vector or whatever kind of file a Cricket uses, I'm sure I could use that to cut out a bunch of iron-on decals on my girlfriends Cricket (not that it would be weird if I owned my own..... ) if anyone was interested. Just cover the cost of the materials (If they're really cheap, I'd donate to the cause, but I think they're not....?). I wouldn't be up to collecting shirt colours and sizes etc.... but bring your own blank tee, and if one person brings an iron it wouldn't take more than a few minutes to make one on site. Just a thought. I also don't own an iron, so....

Covered on a couple recent threads. All engines have belt guides around 3 of 4 cam gears. Manuals have one that sits right above the crank pulley/gear. This guy. If the engine was a manual, leave it there anyway. Not really needed, but won't do any harm as long as it is adjusted properly.

Oh, I don’t need to justify that at all. I could have, and probably should have just bought a lightly used new car outright for the amount I am in to my garage + lift + electrical to power the whole thing. By the logic of don’t spend money on nice things, we’d all drive a Yaris. I know plenty of the list is optional, but I’m poking fun at myself, and the age of the car and everything wrong with it. And it is still the nicest and most reliable vehicle I own!! (If I knew then what I know now, I wouldn't have bought the AOS. I drank the kool-aid.... But I'll just lose money if I sell it, and I've never read anywhere that they do any harm. Correct me if I am wrong about the latter.)

Adventurous souls!! I get chills thinking about everything that might go wrong the occasional time going down to the local low-speed track. Happy to go be an observer/helper if things break. But same as above, 500kms from home is a bad place to lunch something important/expensive!

https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-ej20x-ej20y-engine Some good info here as well. I didn’t realize this engine was a 9.5:1 CR for example.

So... for a combination of laughs, and serious to do list, I thought it might be entertaining to list the things I need to do to/for my 2005 GT in order to make it a better than even chance of making it to Carlisle and back again without catastrophic breakdown. I'm going to make a list, leave it in the post and them hopefully edit/strikethrough the stuff as I accomplish it. I am not the best or fastest mechanic in the world, and getting started in February in Canada means I won't *really* be starting for a while either. At present I've got some major hurdles to get through before I can even really start working. One of the big ones will be deciding to ignore the time and money demands it will take to install the 2 post Bendpak that is arriving next week in favour of the time and money it will take to fix the car on time for June. I have money for one or the other right now, definitely not both. I'll start. List will probably get longer over time. Might get divided into needs and wants at some point. - RR wheel speed sensor/CEL for ABS - done - new/used ss installed, everything has been contact cleanered, let's see if the code clears - 05/23 - code did not clear !! new unused part arrived on the weekend. hopefully that will take care of it, and it's not a break in the wiring further upstream... we will see. worst case I don't have ABS for the trip, which isn't the end of the world, I do not expect to be driving fast in the rain, nor locking up the brakes... Aaaaaahhhh!! New part arrived and did not solve the problem. I suppose not it is pinning out the connector and finding out what signal is not getting where... FML. - rear sway bar bracket supports (install) - done - install RSB end links, may need shims - done. On to the fronts - done - which were MOOGs that have now been donated to the OBW - remove and replace rotted lower rad bar + 2 x rad supports -done - needs a few more nuts and bolts to secure it all properly, but the worst is over, rusted failing parts are gone and new shiney OE bits are holding the rad securely in place. - rebuild outer CV joint by turbo * - sort of.... Replaced with Cardone unit for now, no time to rebuild, but I have 3 spares lying around now, so I should be able to make at least one good OEM axle from all that... - replace windscreen - nope - install AOS - nope - ideally, install SMFW and Spec Clutch (probably won't happen) - it did not,no - bleed brakes!! - this one should get done... - not even, old fluid ftw - install oil press gauge (?where?) - ahah.....HAHAHAH!! - do at least basic rust removal and primer on terrible rear quarters - problem solved and I didn't even need to get my welder out... - re-install lower sills .....maybe? I I suppose I really should, the car looks ridiculous wirthout them, but they're also been off for 2++ years? - diagnose and fix A/C system (that is a big maybe) - diagnosed: system works perfectly when full of refigerant, but it leaks/leaked? Let's see how the A/C system sealant refrigerant combo works. I bet it doesn't do much. - figure our what wiring is needed to wire '07 centre console aux-in port to the stereo to get an actual aux-in - Negatory. - Need to add a bracket to my DP to pick up the hanger at the tail end of the transmission. - done -restore headlight assemblies, not smart doing any night driving as they are now - done. poorly. -Still have some scratches, and I do not thing I got all the clearcoat off, but they are at least clean and clear and will not reduce the light output from the headlights. So, good enough... - shall I go on, or am I already dreaming? I may have been high when I originally proposed doing all of those things. I think this list will shortly be truncated to just the Speed sensor, rad support and installing the sills, maybe bleed the brakes because of the scenic group cruise... 2 months to go and I already don't know how I will ever find time for the rest... April. 10th

Looking like camping site outside of Carlisle PA, dude. You in? I'll also start a parallel thread later today @Enlight just for laughs as mentioned earlier. See what the long repair and maintenance lists are for a bunch of old-ass Subies to get clodged together well enough to survive a road trip and maybe track day... Curious if the oldest thing to come along will be 4th Gen. I know we're the most vocal on the forum, but I still kind of miss my '02 Outback, for example. It was somehow a little more fun to drive than my 05 OB....

Wrong thread maybe? As far as belt sqeak goes tho, it's worth knowing that the belt dressingin a spray can isn't the greatest stuff to solve the issue, as it tend to wear away and is designed to be slightly tacky and help with adhesion. An old hand mechanic once told me to use fine chalk or talcum powder, which feel "soft" but is actually ever so slightly abrasive, and will act as a micro-sandpaper on the belt surface. Scuffing it up just enough that it will gain back some grip on to the pulleys.

I'm fine with either Carlisle of Mike's place, and will go with the crowd. One extra hour doesn't mean too much to me if I'm already going 6 or so. I suppose one of the benefits of not having turned my GT car into a track 'weapon' is that it is still really a good platform for, ya know.... a Grand Tour? I'll probably choose whatever camping option is appealing in the area. I've never had to sleep IN my wagon, tho I "car camp" once a year or so. It's possible but at ~6'2", I'd rather just bring a small tent and a ground pad. Takes like 5 minutes to set that up. I lived out of a tent for 5 summers or so working in forestry, so I probably get as good sleep on the ground + mat as I ever do in a real bed. Activities and libations are welcome. I could probably bring along a small (20/30L) keg of beer + CO2 and a basic tap system if anyone close to the site has some kind of cooler to put it in and anyone wants to help keep ice in it for the weekend? I don't know that I would have space for all that plus a cooler, but I might.