KZJonny

Started in on drilling and sanding out all the spot welds that hold the rad core support in place. Dirt job, and I would never want to be a panel beater. I was hoping to keep this a simple DIY type job, but the welder may have to come out to put it all back together properly. We shall see.

Should not, as long as it is a ~3 bar FPR. Or if adjustable, can be set to 42psi (no vacuum reference). But then, as much as ‘aftermarket’ ones are great, if you’re not adding so much turbo + E85 etc… that you *need* more fuel pressure, why spend x2 the price on something other than the STi unit? Bling would be a legitimate, if expensive reason.

Oooooo those the new Defi’s? Very nice. Let’s not restart the gauge ruckus here, but looking good. I think my Oil pressure will also be a safety thing. Engine health + potentially driver safety.

So the next photo of what you haul in your wagon is gonna be 100L of milk?

You might find something to help, or get better advice in the Transmissions category than the general 4th gen folder. Google search is your friend when looking for info on these boards. try: 5eat shifts hard site:legacygt.com or something like that.

I agree that this is probably a fantastic system, and worth it, but Yikes! $400. The monoammonium phosphate in a standard ABC extinguisher can be a pain to clean, but I guess I hope to never use it, so cleanup isn't the thing I'm worried about. Honestly, I'd never even considered this. I ONLY ever thought about the extinguisher as a means to save my car (or someone else's) if something went awry. Food for thought. I should maybe mount a smaller one up front where it's accessible from the drivers seat. If the goal is to use it to get yourself out, then it being in the backseat wouldn't help much. Then again, everything is dangerous, so.... you can't go through life wearing waterwings and a helmet.

Yikes! I’ve had various people over the years ask about the fire extinguisher in the back seat. Hah! I just say “because old car”, usually shuts them up. Either for fear of an actual fire, or because it makes sense, I don’t know/care.

Here you are @xt2005bonbon! I was able to steal some nice fuel injection hose clamps from a scrap engine, so all I needed was the Sti FPR, and a tee for the vacuum line. Old line is capped with some silicon hose w/a bolt clamped into it. The inline filter and tee + gauge were optional, but I like the idea of not getting crap into the fuel injectors, and as a bonus, they made up enough extra length I did not need to add fuel hose, nor scabby connectors. It’s also another little diagnostic…. Car won’t start? Now I can immediately rule out fuel pressure.

That is on the list before the drive down to PA. I already have a 10lb normal ABC extinguisher in the car. Have carried one ever since an acquaintances car burned down on the side of a 6 lane highway not far from where I live. But 32/42 is OEM standard fuel pressure. Nothing scary. It rises with boost, so 60 ish at the top for me?

Correct. Followed the Covertrussian/Shralp walkthrough. It was pretty straightforward, and yeah, pretty cost effective. I used Earls parts, for a 10 micron inline filter (cleanable) and a tee with a Turbosmart pressure gauge. Didn't need to add hose, or disconnect the fuel lines. Only pain is getting the existing lines onto the earls fittings, that was a sonofabitch. If you are going to do a GS brake master brace. Do it while you have all the spaghetti disconnected. Waaaay easier. I did it the stupid way and made the 2 jobs separate. Most expensive thing was the Sti FPR @ $100 CAD? I'm happy with it. It's a nice clean install, simpler plumbing and from all the available data provides a better, more consistant signal to the FPR. Time will tell, but it's a fairly low dollar mod vs. the pre-made kits.

Double checking my work... You had me nervous for a minute. 32 psi with vacuum adjustment. ~10psi vacuum at idle ∴ 42 psi is actually being delivered

A years worth? 3-4k kms.

One year in with my AEM shortly, no problems yet. Ultimately did switch to a Cobb OTS tune, but not until well after. FPR should do it’s job unless incoming fuel press. is ridiculous. Maybe temporarily throw in a T and check with a pressure gauge to be sure you’re safe? I’m now on the Sti FPR with vacuum sourced from BOV supply. Pressure gauge post FPR and filter shows a very steady 31-32 psi, despite the aftermarket pump. Dave at Cryotune asked for it specifically, so I did as I was asked.

Somewhere around here or maybe on SubaruOutback.org (or both) is a diagram of where to cut the '05-06 inner liner around/below the glove box to make the removal process a hundred times easier. It's pretty intuituve one you've even changed the filter once, your just clearancing some plastic so the tabs on the fitler houseing clear and it can all come out more easily. Either way, it isn't a thing that demands changing all that often. I do find them useful tho, especially since I often go for long periods without using any climate control. It's nice when the first use in a weeks or months doesn't spew leaves and pollen all over the place.

Yuuup. I feel ya! There is distinct irony in having to move around the not-yet assembled 10k lbs lift in my garage, so I have space to put up my car on the Quickjacks, in order to get repairs done. (Especially in time for the East Coast Meetup looming. All this rain isn't help getting anything done at all.

This has become a reasonably serious component of the this thread, but I suppose there a bunch of us who are contributing to @m sprank either arriving in a 4th Gen LGT or having one to nurse back to health. This is a sedan, so maybe not a particularly attractive option? Spec goodies would be tasty tho.

Yeah, that colour looks okay. Level was okay as well? So maybe ignore the Er AA or now, since it seems to be a bit of a hard thing to track down, and what evidence is available suggests radio or other interference... If the remote starter didn't cause that problem on install, why would it now? If the coils and wires don't show any signs of damage, or at least pass the stress tests, then I dunno? I should have started with this as well: Nothing you are doing with any electrical system means anything unless your battery is fully charges and you've got good ground cables that aren't super corroded. Sounds like you're on top of basic maintenance for the car, so that wouldn't be such a big problem, but it's worth a look. Bad grounds cause all sorts of headache that appears as other things, and a tired battery will do the same. Could be worth having it load tested to make sure it's good. (Unless very new, and alternator charging ability is known to be good.)

Nothing to see here folks.

^^^ This. Relax. Make a coffee and calm your nerves, etc... I did the same thing timing my OBW and GT. Freaked out a bit initially, then did a little digging and realized while it is possible to bend valves doing a timing job, it's incredibly unlikely. Mainly due to piston location in timed position. The Company 23 tools are generally very well regarded for this. They're also spendy, but I suppose you get what you pay for, and if you're already doing the job yourself you should easily be ahead by a lot more than the cost of the holder.... Or chop up an old 10mm allan key, and a peice of flat steel mark off location and get the keys welded to the bar stock? Super cheap, but a bunch less convenient, I suppose.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/weird-er-aa-code-on-odometer.148001/ Also an interesting post. Seems ErAA is commonly associated with CAN problems... any chance you've got any kind of auxiliary devices that could be messing with it? Just more ideas to kick around.

NP. Do report back if you get any results. There are definitely more than just those things that could be causing your problems, but they were the first and most obvious that came to mind. (Editing out useless info....) If the car is in good shape, and you don't mind spending a little money on it, I'd check out the trans code first... check the colour of the fluid, would be cherry red if new, and various shades to deep brown if it's really cooked. Top up if low and see how it behaves, I know from my OBW that when I was leaking a little ATF from a trans cooler line, it didn't need to be down by very much at all to cause some serious problems in how the car behaved and shifted, stalling would not surprise me as a symptom either. That would be the deciding factor for me. Used 4EATs are cheap enough, and relatively bulletproof. But it would be the most expensive fix by a lot. Coils and wires, or a fuel sending unit are easy to do and (relatively) cheap. Trans is meaningfully less easy to do in a driveway, and only cheap(ish) if you have a way to get one from a scrapyard. If the code reader is correct tho, it may be the input shaft sensor.... and that isn't too expensive, but probably best to double check how ot diagnose if it is actually faulty before just throwing money at a problem. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Legacy/Vehicle-Speed-Sensor/49242496/31937AA122.html

Okay. I can’t say much about the tranmission issues. But that does mean you’ve got a 4EAT, not a 5EAT. Might help someone else diagnose you a little. Since you don’t have coil on plugs, you can’t try swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil packs. Sometimes coils get old and begin to fail with heat, so it’s possible to idle the car and use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the coil and see if the misfire occurs. This would be time to get a new coil, and most likely plug wires as well. You also might be able to see failing wires if you have somewhere with no lights around and look under the hood with the car running. Misting around the wires and coil with a water bottle can also show up bad parts, as if they are failing, the may arc through the water mist… I don’t remember how the coil on the Na engines works, but I assume it’s wasted spark, and cylinders 2 and 4 both get an ignition at the same time, so the two cylinders on the same side suggests a bad coil. (I should know this, I have a 2.5i as well, but haven’t had ignition problems… yet.) The oil on the plugs is most likely failing(ed) plug tube gaskets. Time for a new cam cover gasket set. Common for older cars. Not the worst job on sohc engines. You’ll want a ratcheting wrench set ideally, there still isn’t much room there between the heads and the inner fender. Fuel smell suggests a failing filler neck to me, which is another common problem, since there is a small plastic sheild as part of the wheel well liner that tends to hold dirt and gravel against the filler neck, causing corrosion. I’d have a quick look there. At 15 years old, the tank could also be rusting at the seams, which may also cause a strong smell above ~1/2 tanks. (This is actual tank volume, not based on what sounds like a bad fuel sending unit…) Hope some of that helps.

Standard Legacy or GT? Doesn’t change the meaning of the code, but may change what you need to do in subtle ways…

Yuuup. That ECU is not gonna work. I was surprised to know that even between ‘05 and ‘06, the maps are not the same, Despite both being the same engine configuration etc… or at least Cobb has a different map for the two years.

New panel for the house next week, and the old one becomes the garage panel. Dug enough of a trench to get conduit to the house, glued up the sections and filled it back in. Nothing like digging a massive hole then just filling it back up right away. Lol! Income tax money will not be spent on speed parts this year, but on copper. Enough 6g to get from the house to the garage is gonna cost. Thankfully my neighbour is an electrician, and we do favours for one another, so I’ll help him with carpentry, and he’ll pull wiring through to the garage and get the panel wired into the house.