KZJonny

Somewhere around here or maybe on SubaruOutback.org (or both) is a diagram of where to cut the '05-06 inner liner around/below the glove box to make the removal process a hundred times easier. It's pretty intuituve one you've even changed the filter once, your just clearancing some plastic so the tabs on the fitler houseing clear and it can all come out more easily. Either way, it isn't a thing that demands changing all that often. I do find them useful tho, especially since I often go for long periods without using any climate control. It's nice when the first use in a weeks or months doesn't spew leaves and pollen all over the place.

Yuuup. I feel ya! There is distinct irony in having to move around the not-yet assembled 10k lbs lift in my garage, so I have space to put up my car on the Quickjacks, in order to get repairs done. (Especially in time for the East Coast Meetup looming. All this rain isn't help getting anything done at all.

This has become a reasonably serious component of the this thread, but I suppose there a bunch of us who are contributing to @m sprank either arriving in a 4th Gen LGT or having one to nurse back to health. This is a sedan, so maybe not a particularly attractive option? Spec goodies would be tasty tho.

Yeah, that colour looks okay. Level was okay as well? So maybe ignore the Er AA or now, since it seems to be a bit of a hard thing to track down, and what evidence is available suggests radio or other interference... If the remote starter didn't cause that problem on install, why would it now? If the coils and wires don't show any signs of damage, or at least pass the stress tests, then I dunno? I should have started with this as well: Nothing you are doing with any electrical system means anything unless your battery is fully charges and you've got good ground cables that aren't super corroded. Sounds like you're on top of basic maintenance for the car, so that wouldn't be such a big problem, but it's worth a look. Bad grounds cause all sorts of headache that appears as other things, and a tired battery will do the same. Could be worth having it load tested to make sure it's good. (Unless very new, and alternator charging ability is known to be good.)

Nothing to see here folks.

^^^ This. Relax. Make a coffee and calm your nerves, etc... I did the same thing timing my OBW and GT. Freaked out a bit initially, then did a little digging and realized while it is possible to bend valves doing a timing job, it's incredibly unlikely. Mainly due to piston location in timed position. The Company 23 tools are generally very well regarded for this. They're also spendy, but I suppose you get what you pay for, and if you're already doing the job yourself you should easily be ahead by a lot more than the cost of the holder.... Or chop up an old 10mm allan key, and a peice of flat steel mark off location and get the keys welded to the bar stock? Super cheap, but a bunch less convenient, I suppose.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/weird-er-aa-code-on-odometer.148001/ Also an interesting post. Seems ErAA is commonly associated with CAN problems... any chance you've got any kind of auxiliary devices that could be messing with it? Just more ideas to kick around.

NP. Do report back if you get any results. There are definitely more than just those things that could be causing your problems, but they were the first and most obvious that came to mind. (Editing out useless info....) If the car is in good shape, and you don't mind spending a little money on it, I'd check out the trans code first... check the colour of the fluid, would be cherry red if new, and various shades to deep brown if it's really cooked. Top up if low and see how it behaves, I know from my OBW that when I was leaking a little ATF from a trans cooler line, it didn't need to be down by very much at all to cause some serious problems in how the car behaved and shifted, stalling would not surprise me as a symptom either. That would be the deciding factor for me. Used 4EATs are cheap enough, and relatively bulletproof. But it would be the most expensive fix by a lot. Coils and wires, or a fuel sending unit are easy to do and (relatively) cheap. Trans is meaningfully less easy to do in a driveway, and only cheap(ish) if you have a way to get one from a scrapyard. If the code reader is correct tho, it may be the input shaft sensor.... and that isn't too expensive, but probably best to double check how ot diagnose if it is actually faulty before just throwing money at a problem. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Legacy/Vehicle-Speed-Sensor/49242496/31937AA122.html

Okay. I can’t say much about the tranmission issues. But that does mean you’ve got a 4EAT, not a 5EAT. Might help someone else diagnose you a little. Since you don’t have coil on plugs, you can’t try swapping coils to see if the problem follows the coil packs. Sometimes coils get old and begin to fail with heat, so it’s possible to idle the car and use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the coil and see if the misfire occurs. This would be time to get a new coil, and most likely plug wires as well. You also might be able to see failing wires if you have somewhere with no lights around and look under the hood with the car running. Misting around the wires and coil with a water bottle can also show up bad parts, as if they are failing, the may arc through the water mist… I don’t remember how the coil on the Na engines works, but I assume it’s wasted spark, and cylinders 2 and 4 both get an ignition at the same time, so the two cylinders on the same side suggests a bad coil. (I should know this, I have a 2.5i as well, but haven’t had ignition problems… yet.) The oil on the plugs is most likely failing(ed) plug tube gaskets. Time for a new cam cover gasket set. Common for older cars. Not the worst job on sohc engines. You’ll want a ratcheting wrench set ideally, there still isn’t much room there between the heads and the inner fender. Fuel smell suggests a failing filler neck to me, which is another common problem, since there is a small plastic sheild as part of the wheel well liner that tends to hold dirt and gravel against the filler neck, causing corrosion. I’d have a quick look there. At 15 years old, the tank could also be rusting at the seams, which may also cause a strong smell above ~1/2 tanks. (This is actual tank volume, not based on what sounds like a bad fuel sending unit…) Hope some of that helps.

Standard Legacy or GT? Doesn’t change the meaning of the code, but may change what you need to do in subtle ways…

Yuuup. That ECU is not gonna work. I was surprised to know that even between ‘05 and ‘06, the maps are not the same, Despite both being the same engine configuration etc… or at least Cobb has a different map for the two years.

New panel for the house next week, and the old one becomes the garage panel. Dug enough of a trench to get conduit to the house, glued up the sections and filled it back in. Nothing like digging a massive hole then just filling it back up right away. Lol! Income tax money will not be spent on speed parts this year, but on copper. Enough 6g to get from the house to the garage is gonna cost. Thankfully my neighbour is an electrician, and we do favours for one another, so I’ll help him with carpentry, and he’ll pull wiring through to the garage and get the panel wired into the house.

Got the air barrier up. That was a job in 28C, and no clouds in sight. Happy for the warm weather, so it’s a little crap to complain, but I’m not used to the heat yet. Spent a couple days grading out the last of the pile of dirt from the pad excavation. Seeded everything with white clover and topped with some straw to keep the birds out a little. Someone find me a cold beer…

https://toptirereview.com/continental-extremecontact-sport-vs-michelin-pilot-sport-4s/ Interesting comparo between the PS4S and Extreme Contact Sports.

I'd like to try both of those side by each. I guess I've got a little brand loyalty with Continental, since I have them on my cars, motorcycles and bicycles... hah! They were the right price on sale when I needed tires tho, so I felt good enough about that. Maybe I'll get the chance to go for a ride in something with MPS4S at the meet-up. (We also may be talking amongst ourselves at this point. OP with one post and one login... )

How hard are you going to flog it? Intended use etc… Pilot Sport 4’s are undeniably awesome, but also pretty expensive. If you’re not going to be at a track with them, you may be spending more for not much gain. For 2/3 the money, I really like my Conti Extreme Contacts A/S tires. Where I live, we can have extreme rain events and early/late frosts and snow, so I can’t risk UHP summer tires. Much depends on the use case scenario…

While I don't buy *all* OEM stuff, I think if you really look at price differences between OE and good quality aftermarket for Subaru, it often isn't that much of a difference. That is to say, that while they're pricey, I think a lot of the OEM Subaru stuff is priced kinda reasonably for what it is. There isn't quite enough room for the aftermarket (or at least the good quality stuff) to really price low and make much money. I've seen BMW OEM stuff be so incredibly expensive from the dealer that there is a lot of room to make a good aftermarket part, at a much better price and still turn a profit (BMW just as an example...). Maybe the case, maybe not. Subaru is also a pretty small player on the automotice market here in general too. Probably lots of parts some companies could make easily enough, but they've run the numbers and it doesn't make sense to bother given the size of the Sooby fleet out there....

If you think you'll need to cut out the toe adjusting bolts, which if you have *any* rust is likely, do yourself a giant favour and get a carbide tipped blade for your recip, if that is the weapon of choice. I wasted a bunch of time dulling normal metal blades until I caved and spend the ~$15 on a single good blade that went through the hardened steel easily. I replaced those bolts with the MOOG version as they have a zerk fitting on the bolts head and send grease into the void left by the cam shape, which the reason those bolts seize so hard in the first place. I personally do not think the 1/16" grease passage down the bolt will affect it's strength. Opinions may vary. Top choices for ball joints seem to be OEM or "555" brand. Ima try the latter when mine go. I figure if they survive an actual rally race, then they'll probably serve on my car for a while. Curious to see what info comes up on coilovers tho. I'm happy with my struts and springs, but when the supply of cheap JDM takeoffs dries up, it might be time to consider some streetable coilovers.

Let me take some photos of the sills on the parts car I have sitting out front. RBP is the '05 only dark blue yes (Royal Blue PearL?) I'm don't even know my own paint colour. They may or may not be better than yours, so I can DM or text photos to see if they're worth pulling off and dragging down. They are at least OG Subaru paint, so might be worth having the extras so you can do paint correction on one set and still have some on your car in the meantime? I also have 2x sets of B25 heads, so I'd be willing to part/trade away the ones that are not on my spare engine. They would need a cleaning/checkup, but there is no obvious damage to them that I cam see and cam journal wear looks to be about normal for a 24x xxx KM engine. Let me know about any of that. If I had more room, or was willing to tow a trailer down with me to haul back parts (I am not, there are too many twisty road on the way down/back up), I'd find some cash for that trans, just to have a spare. As it is, you've got too much nice stuff that needs a home!!

LHS? I would start by looking at fuel lines probably. Shouldn’t be much to leak below/around the door… I’d think fuel must be running along something and dripping off on the left. Fuel tank seams are also a common failure point. Hoe full was the tank when you were driving/smelled gas?

By rocker covers… do you mean the plastic sills below the doors?

Just replaced ~4 year old Moog sway bar links in my DD Outback. Probably only did 30 000kms, since I don’t really drive all that much. Roads here aren’t great, but I wasn’t thrilled with that time/distance. Easier fix than ball joints tho. I installed Moog Ball joints last fall, and I can at least say with confidence that they fit well and came with the right pinch bolts. Hopefully they last, the price was right for the DD.

Jealous of your 6MT! Offer stands dude. Give me enough time to install and run power. Lift is yours for as much time as it takes to do that swap. Even working in the driving hours, I bet it would be faster with a lift.

Yessir! No more raIn on the inside...Lol! I understand the jealousy, for sure... But fwiw I haven't done things like go out for dinner or casual pints in years now.. I can't remember the last time I bought myself any new clothes, (4-5 years, aside from new steel toes for work...) and I grow a HUGE amount of food in my garden each summer, partly because I love to, and it also saves pennies to put towards this stuff... I know we all do things like this for our passions, so I'm not the exception. I just never mentioned it in the thread, in case somebody thought I'm some sort of silver spoon kid... I am assuredly not. You should see the state of the inside of my house. (It's clean!!! but all the 50 year old crap that it came with has not been replaces, and it likley won't soon.... you make choices.) All that said, mi casa su casa dude. I know Ottawa isn't exaclty around the corner, but if you ever lined up a job like a 6mt swap or whatever, you just drag all that stuff down here on a weekend, and we can get it done in an afternoon rather than a week worth of being on your back with the car on jack stands!

Yeah, I think it was worth the cost and the wait. I'm no mechanic, but I do mess around a lot on cars, help out friends when things break, and have met some people along the way that I would lend the space to if they really needed a lift for a job. (No dude, you can't use my lift to do your oil change....) Out of purely morbid curiosity I took a look at the cost of these things post-pandemic, and they are almost 100% more expensive than when I paid for this. So.... some times planning ahead and making regrettable impulse purchases while on the phone with a salesperson can work out for you. I can say with certainty that if I'd waited until the garage was up to pay for this, I wouldn't have it.