GearJamr

Yes I do. Off an 07 spec as well. Not sure if Diamond gray is the darker gray or not. You can see pics in my FS ad:

bump

You might be getting deeper in then. Maybe wheel hubs, or axles, maybe even something trans or diff related. Maybe the used steering rack is messed up. Think back to when it started, what was the last thing that was changed or happened before the issue started? I was getting an intermittent vibration when driving at highway speeds because the ball joints I got didn't fit the lower arms properly and were loose. So retracing your steps might lead you to the solution.

My first thought was warped rotors, but maybe not. My next immediate thoughts are do you have spacers? Maybe a wheel is missing a hub ring? Anything in the suspension loose? Wheel unbalanced or bent?

I'm assuming this wouldn't be a problem with a spec.b trans?

Yes. Came out of my 2005.

Strange update for anyone who actually looks in this thread: I'm pretty sure it's a grounding issue now. Just not sure where. Perhaps this will help anyone who might have a suggestion.... Yesterday it was raining, and I was at a stop light where the radio signal was clear and strong. The windshield wipers were on intermittent, and every time they made a sweep, the signal would go weak, and when the wipe was finished, the signal would be back to normal. I've read of the rear wiper making the signal change because of broken wires in the hatch, but never the front wipers.....Is there somewhere the front wipers and the antenna are commonly grounded?

Mine used to do that too. My fix? New bumper cover. However, I say that knowing the large oval shaped hole was warped. Popping it out and giving it some heat and putting it back should help it. I also had the bumper cover replaced because mine had a crack in it from PO that was repaired badly. And it was in the body shop for a bunch of other things anyway.

I probably wouldn't have either except my heatshields were rusted so bad they were pretty much falling off, and the manifold was getting pretty rusted as well. Would have had to replace in not much more time anyway. Plus, they were all coming off to put the catless up in so a good time to change.

When I installed my Koni and Swift spring setup, I had the fronts on "full hard - 1/4 turn". That lasted maybe a week and it was insanity. I cranked the fronts down to full soft + 1/2 turn and that gave me a more compliant ride but still decent rebound for spirited driving. The rears I have around full hard - 1/2 turn. I would start with the fronts, turn them softer a bit and try it.

sent PM

5500K. Ballasts are 35W iirc.

I have a few things off my 2005 lgt wagon and a 2007 sedan. Mishimoto Retro-quik HID kit with headlight assemblies. Everything is there, HID bulbs included. Will need to swap over your high beam and side marker bulbs. Has cable to allow HID bulbs to remain lit when high beams are turned on. - $250 +shipping obo. Side mirrors, dark grey. Not power folding. Assume they work, bought doors off part out car. Very minor paint scratch on one, barely visible - $75 + shipping obo. (SOLD to smith222) Sedan windows, 2 front and 2 rear, tinted. One has a very minor scratch in the tint. $100 obo for all 4. Can be shipped but will cost $$$ for proper packing. Cargo covers for LGT wagon or Outback. One is in excellent shape, great spring action. $100 +shipping obo (SOLD to Infosecdad). Second works well in warmer weather, not so great in the cold. $75 + shipping obo. Grille off 2005 lgt. Chrome is split in one spot. $40 + shipping obo. Engine cover from 2005 lgt. $50 + shipping obo. I also have stock front and rear sway bars. Best offer before they go to scrap. Unknown brand of brake rotors and pads. Removed them from my 2005 lgt a few years ago when I bought it. Pads have lots of material left. Rotors look fine. I have pictures somewhere, but can take more if needed. $100 + shipping for them all.

I routed my wiring through the grommet in the driver side fender. I pulled back the liner and it's pretty easy to get to from there. You could also go through the large wiring grommet just in behind the turbo. Depends on where you want the amp. I got a small profile Alpine amp that I put under the driver seat. I wanted to go passenger side but there is not much clearance there. Depending on size, if you wanted to get really creative you could mount it to the back of one of the removable panels near the rear hatch. Or mount it underneath the spare tire cover or on top of it.

Atta boy. Get down with the sickness.

Maybe just get replacement fenders. People seem to be selling legacy fronts fairly often. If it's the rears....well, you can get subiesavers but that will definitely involve more cutting and welding. I got myself a pair of madrig's rear quarters for my wagon. it was pricey to get them put on but they'll never rust.

I notice you are missing the side skirts. I have a pair in my basement you can have. Would just have to arrange pickup.

Ottawa, ON area.... Good all around shop for repairs/maintenance: Hinton Automotive, 129 Walgreen Rd, Carp, ON K0A 1L0 Subaru specific shops: Capital Tuning (repairs, upgrades, tuning) 36 Bentley Ave #3, Nepean, ON K2E 6T8 Ratchet Customs, 730 Rue Industrielle b, Rockland, ON K4K 1T2 Tuning: Quantum Tuning, Greely, ON

Yeah, I've driven in Sudbury before. It is pretty bad. Similar to most roads in QC too. Our roads in Ottawa aren't quite that bad, but the constant suspension bashing from the uneven pavement can be a little irritating at times.

No, have not found the problem yet. Full disclosure - I haven't been motivated to frustrate myself further. For #1, yes. When I connected the "new" amplifier the signal was good until I fastened it to the hatch. Signal went back to bad, so I removed the bolt and let it hang by just the wiring and signal was good again. #3, correct. It was the one that worked while hanging. I also used a nylon/plastic bolt to secure it and got the same result. The second amplifier I got was pulled from a scrap yard car, so it is possible it is bad too. Perhaps more detail on the body work might provide a clue. I had some rust repair done on the hatch. Would presume the wiring was removed in order to facilitate that work, but everything else on the hatch works. The rear quarter panels were cut out and carbon fiber ones were installed. Maybe there is a short somewhere in that area from that work? Again, everything else is working a-ok. Fuses have been fine, and last check were good. Mechanic tested it all and they figure it is also the amplifier. Maybe the original got dropped or jostled enough to make it go wonky and the one I replaced it with was either bad or got blown after shorting against the car. Maybe some weird problem with HU that happened to appear? Maybe the HU got shorted somehow and the receiver in that is affected? just grasping at straws and I don't really want to just go replacing random parts. Though the BT portion of my HU is not very good.... Stupidest thing I have encountered with a car ever. I have to wonder if getting a new amplifier from a dealer would even be possible. Might have to go "dumpster diving" again and try another one.

I have heard there is an issue with the usdm abs module connecting to the jdm trailing arms. AFAIK it would involve splicing the jdm module to the usdm wiring, but don't quote me. That was the reason I sold the jdm arms I had and picked up some usdm spec.b arms.

I don't know if they are interchangeable but have you looked on car-part.com, or a local pick-n-pull to get one? Hell, checking out some jdm shops might get you one. Not sure if this is the part # you are after but a place like this might help: Used 2006 Subaru Legacy Tcu Tcm Transmission Control Module Oem 2.5l P/n 31711ak100 for Sale | 31711AK100 (partrequest.com)

My reverse lights weren't working when I bought my 05 wagon. Not sure how it passed safety but I digress.... I changed the switch and that worked for a little bit. Then I noticed my license plate lights didn't work. Then my high mount brake light. The wagons are notorious for the wiring cracking and breaking where it passes through the hinge area. Pull the rubber "guard" out and check the wiring. If any are broken, there are probably more, so look at all of them. If wires are broken, either replace the entire wire assembly or repair the wires. In short, check that all other tailgate functions are working. If not, head for the wires.

I was going to do that to mine, but didn't feel like taking apart the lower suspension and braces/covers to get the clearance. Liberal application of ES polyurethane lube took care of it. The teflon tape would just be an added layer of "protection", might make the lube interval longer.

I'd be very interested in hearing/seeing how it goes. I've bought some things from Crutchfield (including home audio) and the items are always shipped fast and as advertised. Fortunately I've never had to return anything. My biggest curiousity is whether the foam tray would still fit. Not a deal killer by any means, but would be nice.