GearJamr

Yeah I saw that one. For the price, you could find what is potentially wrong with it, fix it and resell at a profit.

I don't want to brag or discourage anyone, but I installed Vosla headlight bulbs and checked/topped off the oil yesterday.

With my daughter having her license and my son about to get his G1, I don't think I'll be able to get away with having 1 car at home for 3 people for an extended time. Maybe in a couple of years. If everything works out, I'll be retired in about 6 years and time will be easier to come by.

Doubtful I will be going to the meet, but I can throw up my list of stuff to do. In no particular order: 1. Repair broken led taillight and install - repair started. 2. Check if I have cabin air filter and proper access - that'll wait until spring when it'll be easier to wade through the junker cars if I need to find an 06+ glove box. 3. Install brighter headlamps - intend to do on the weekend. Still looking at other solutions. 4. Replace antenna wiring harness in the hatch - maybe cause of my radio problems? 5. Replace busted door speaker - have new set of speakers, need some modification to get them in brackets 6. Take apart console and reinstall - after airbag recall, it was not reinstalled....well. 7. Sound deaden the hatch area 8. Install turbo inlet, IC to TB coupler, fuel pump - retune of course required 9. Remove the blue T and replace with brass fitting 10. Install aluminum rear control arms 11. 6-speed swap - need more parts (clutch/fw, starter) 12. Lube my fuel tank cover release cable 13. Install wheel spacers - must acquire first 14. Get summer wheels refinished 15. Install new FPR - need to get, maybe sti or adjustable? 16. Get a/c checked/repaired - not a big concern for the winter Sheesh. That's enough to make me want to just sit on the couch a while longer.

Part out what you can, you'll make your money back. Sucks there are still a lot of sheisters out there.

2005-2009 Subaru Legacy/Outback C-style Headlights (foxbeamlighting.com) Just curious if anyone has grabbed a set of these and how it worked out.

Check Fujitsubo. I have the nameless 3" mid and y with Fujitsubo Wagolis mufflers. They fit a little odd in the rear bumper cutouts (makes the rear look cross-eyed) but they're quiet under most normal driving. I have a couple sound clip vids in that thread.

If it fits, you could try a size larger bolt. I'm guessing it's M6? Maybe tapping it at 1/4 or even M8? Or if you can drill the hole out some, and get a sleeve you can press in and tap to proper size. At this point, worth a shot. A Dremel with a buffing attachment might help get rid of the gouges. Or getting a metal filler.....

Took a look at this on the weekend, and as suspected, there is virtually no room to get tools in there, let alone hands without removing at least the a/c compressor. Guess I will live with it for a little while.

Speaking from experience, if the timing belt tensioner goes south, you won't be driving. Mine luckily died in my driveway, engine died. When I went to restart, got a lovely screech sound, and pushed it inside. Got a tow to the garage, they changed everything, and fortunately everything has been good (engine related) since.

I've run EBC redstuff and rotors and currently have Akebono pads/rotors on my LGT. I found the EBC bit harder than the Akebonos do when cold. A wash once at temp. I can't speak for the yellowstuff pads, I would assume they are just as good about cold braking. I had Hawk pads on my old Camaro, and swtiched to EBC reds on that as well. Can't say there was a massive difference other than the EBCs were the last set I put on so maybe recency bias? In a pinch I put on some cheapo rear pads on my wrx once. After about a year, right before trading it in, the pads were nearly shot.

I would very much like to know where you got the pedals from.

I see that in the 2nd pic. First pic with the wires around the fuel lines is what I'm concerned with atm.

Thanks for the tip and pic. My only question is, where is this located? Looks like the intake in the middle right.....is this driver side toward the front of the engine?

So, I started noticing the smell of gas in my 05 LGT last year. It was VERY intermittent and only when the outside air was cool or cold (like below 10 C). I hadn't been driving the car as much lately but in the past week - 2 weeks I have noticed the smell is present most drives now. Just getting in the car, no smell. It doesn't present itself until after the engine is started, and it takes about 10-15 seconds to start smelling. About the same amount of time it idles before I move the car. My first thought is injector seals, does that seem realistic? I have noticed my stutter/stumble has gotten a little worse, and sometimes the car is just downright grumpy and will run rough for a brief time (like 20 seconds) and then returns to normal. I might attribute that to a failing FPR but I would guess it wouldn't give off fuel odour..... So much to do to this car......

Ha, now you can get to work on your summer cars during the winter! No more excuses.

From what I have gathered in my own quest, a spec.b 6mt will swap in. However, you need the rear diff, rear axles, driveshaft, and shifter as well. Plus associated mounts. Maybe you meant all of that, and then yes, throw it all in and call it a day. I have heard varying opinions on if a different clutch and flywheel are needed. My plan is to change those anyway once I get everything I need to do the swap. I have also heard the starter can be transferred over. Someone with more knowledge can correct any of this if I am mistaken.

Yep, right hand side. I bought the entire harness from Subaru, made the job pretty simple. Only tough part was getting the connectors off the defrost connection of the window - didn't want to break them! Like KZJonny said, if one is broken, there are bound to be more. If you're cool with soldering, that's likely the cheaper option and will work just as well.

Definitely interested, PM sent.

I get the OEM would know best part.....but also have to consider that is for the tires they originally equipped the vehicle with. Not sure how the 80% suggestion would work....I would think the manufacturers would set their recommended pressure based on tire construction/load bearing ability, fuel efficiency, vehicle weight, intended vehicle use, etc etc. I would think the higher the air pressure the worse the ride would get, but have not experimented to find out. Might be worth trying out.

The connectors are the ones from the flexible fuel line to the hard fuel lines. Again, if you don't touch the flexible lines, then the Dorman connectors are moot. Go and read page 1, the OP goes over this exact thing.

The OP in his walkthru used the fuel connectors because he cut new fuel lines. You can just use the lines that are there. Using new fuel line with new connectors will allow making the lines the correct length to avoid introducing more issues rather than correcting the stumbling issue.

If you use some of the vacuum hose you cut adapting to the BOV location, you can easily use that to plug the port. I made an aluminum plug to fit the end of the hose, zip tied that in for good measure, then zip tied to the port. Granted I'm a machinist so it's easier for me to make a plug like that, but a bolt or screw would work fine.

I'm not even close. ~185k kms, about 115k miles. Still original engine/turbo etc.

Every change on a turbo requires tuning. Gets tiresome having to baby the car across town to the tuner, not to mention pricey. I definitely prefer a naturally aspirated rumbly powerplant.