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taysubaru

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT
  • Interests
    Hockey, Driving
  • Occupation
    Finance

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  1. It's definitely coolant, not oil. What's strange is I had a failed turbo where the shaft had cracked, and there was some coolant being burned. This made sense to me, coolant and oil were leaking into the exhaust. Now I replaced with a new turbo, and honestly it seems to be burning even MORE coolant... which makes 0 sense. Unless the turbo castings were defective, how else is this possible? The only other potential is that my head gasket failed, but my car idles fine, and the coolant burn only really occurs while under boost (and it's intermittent), which doesn't line up with head gaskets. Also, what are the odds both head gaskets and turbo failed on the same day?? Honestly I am at such a loss as to what's going on. Reached out to turbo manufacturer to see if they've ever have failures in the coolant castings, but outside of that I'm not sure where to go next. Thanks for the insights...
  2. Hi, I replaced the turbo on my 05LGT, car drives fine and the boost is working, however the car seems to be burning coolant intermittently. When I put more load on the car, white smoke comes up, but when I start it, idle it, or even drive with low rpm no issue. To me this suggest it's not a head gasket. Maybe a faulty turbo from the factory? Cannot think of another reason the car would be acting this way. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Thanks - this makes more sense. Definitely tricky. The hardest part is that once the turbo is close to going in, you can't see it (just feel it), so you don't know it's lined up perfectly and not just kinked. I tried pulling the air inlet back, but it was hard to get enough clearance to not tear the rubber. I am debating fully removing more of the air inlet, which would not only avoid any tear to the rubber (as you could install the inlet back on once the turbo is set), but also you can see through the hole created by the inlet removal to confirm the oil hose connection is solid. Seems like this removal is non-trivial, but saves me putting the whole thing back together just to discover the turbo is free draining oil from my missed connection! Any thoughts? Not worth the effort?
  4. Hi, thanks for your response. What do you mean by "drain spout"? Are you referring to the oil outlet pipe, or the oil outlet hose? The outlet pipe came installed on my new turbo, and I re-used the oil outlet hose from the old turbo on the new install. Thanks! T
  5. Hi - thanks for responding. I am confused, how does bolting the turbo on the up pipe help you drop in the turbo blind and connect the oil hose?
  6. Hi All, Seems to be a common issue, but I am currently installing the VF46 turbo on my 2005 Subaru LGT, and I am having a very difficult time lining up the oil drain line on the bottom of the turbo. Obviously this is complicated by having to also line up the turbo air intake hose (as the soft rubber is prone to tearing), but it seems like such a bad design to have to install this part totally blind. I thought it was in, put the car back together, only to have oil pour out when I started. Back to the drawing board, and a lot of rework, with no guarantees it will be any easier! Does anyone have any tips for how to improve this step? I am considering removing the entire turbo air inlet line so that I can look through the hole and see the oil line actually line up with the drain...this seems extreme, but I don't know what else to do! Thanks in advance for any advice! T
  7. Ok thanks, so I can just keep/reuse the previous VF40 boost pill and I'm all set for the swap?
  8. Hi, I'm looking for a used OEM VF40 Turbo, to install on a 2005 Subaru LGT. I am located in Canada (but we can discuss a shipping arrangement). Let me know if you have any leads. Thanks!
  9. Thank you so much! I realize I was confused by the water pipe terminology - these are of course the coolant lines! My guess is that the water pipes are sold separately as the OEM ones can often be reused. That said, from experience, would you suggest I order these new parts in addition to the new turbo? I hate wasting money, but if these parts are likely worn/rusted/damaged, doesn't hurt to buy new! First time replacing the turbo, so I've got lots to learn...
  10. Question regarding the installation of an after market VF40 turbo replacement: I have the option of ordering new water pipes & bolts for the turbo coolant system separately. My guess is that the water pipes are sold separately as the OEM ones can often be reused. That said, from experience, would you suggest I order these new parts in addition to the turbo?
  11. Looking at installing a new aftermarket VF40 turbo from JM Turbo Technology. This came recommended from a local Subaru shop in Toronto, Canada. A couple of quick questions: - Is anyone familiar with this product? Any advice? - There is a turbo water line kit available as an add-on. Would you recommend I get this? Not familiar with a water line on the OEM unit... - Any tips for after market turbo installations or things to watch out for? Thanks! T
  12. Hi, I'm looking for a used OEM VF40 Turbo, to install on a 2005 Subaru LGT. I am located in Canada (but we can discuss a shipping arrangement). Let me know if you have any leads. Thanks!
  13. Appreciate the clarification. That's exactly what I plan to do. Sell as a project, or keep for my own project with additional diagnosis and a turbo!
  14. I appreciate the sentiment, I'm just saying while I appreciate the statistics, that doesn't corelate to actual advice for my particular situation. I need to make a decision on a car sitting in my driveway. To summarize - if you were in my shoes, you would send the car to the scrap yard, or put in a brand new motor?
  15. I appreciate where you're coming from, but let's get the facts straight (for the record). The turbo started making a rattle sound just last week (not a whine), and upon inspection it sounds like turbine blade damage on the hot side of the turbo. The P0011/P0021 code came on earlier this week, and I stopped driving it. I drained the oil, and there was no obvious metal or sediment in the oil, giving me hope that the damage was minimal. The car now seems to run better with the new oil, and I wonder if I drained out any sort of clog. The car without boost is lame, so I figure I put a second hand turbo in (for a reasonable price), and see if the car works again. At that point, I will either keep driving for an bit longer, or sell the car for a very reasonable price (I'm not trying to scam someone). There is no evidence at this point that I need to replace the full motor, nor is there any economics supporting that decision. I also don't think the car should be sent to the scrap yard. Now, I also wish to respect the integrity of this forum. Therefore, I would appreciate your advice on what you would do in this same situation? Rather than jumping on my post with incorrect information and calling me "that guy", maybe you could actually help me out.
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