YeuEmMaiMai

you need to do a draw down test. the easiest way is amp clamp and a meter

LED are typically rated to run 6-24V. flickering LED = defective and time to replace.

get in car start it pump the brake pedal until it becomes hard add fluid to master cylinder go around remove each wheel and use a hand vacuum pump to re-bleed each caliper until no more bubbles, replace wheel, repeat for each caliper and add fluid between each one to the master cylinder. you can also use the hose in a coke bottle method if you don't have a hand pump.

2.5L you will need to remove the intake up to the throttle body and this involves unplugging the maf and un-clipping the harness from the air box . disconnect battery first or wait 10 minutes for the car to shut off completely you will need to unbolt the PS pump reservoir (oops not applicable to 6th gen) it is recommended you remove the battery for easier access on driver side you can do it without jacking the engine. after you have done the above, 1. Start on the front plug passenger side 2. unbolt coil pack and lay aside 3. unbolt rear coil pack and lay aside (due to length it is IMPOSSIBLE to mix them up) if coil pack is not intact or is otherwise damaged, replace 4. insert spark plug socket into hole 5. insert 6in ext into hole and snap it into the spark plug socket, then rotate it until it slides on plug 6. insert ratchet into extension 7. loosen plug 8. remove ratchet from extension 9. use fingers to finish removing plug 10. remove ext with socket and plug attached 11. repeat 2-10 for rear plug 12. separate ext from spark plug socket. 13. insert new plug into socket. 14. Insert socket into hole 15. insert extension into hole and gently press until it locks into spark plugs socket 16. turn extension left a bit so you are not threaded into hole improperly 17 hand tighten plug with fingers 18. put toque wrench/ratchet on ext and tighten to correct specs 19 remove torque wrench from ext. 20. remove ext from hole while still attached to spark plug socket 21. replace coil pack, make sure you hear it POP and then replace bolt and tighten to spec. 22. Repeat steps 12-21 for rear plug driver side is identical except for you have to un-clip a brake line and the high pressure AC line from the frame rail and move them back slightly so the socket and ext can clear the rail when removing the plugs when done replace PS pump reservoir and intake tract on passenger side and do not forget to plug in the maf. replace battery on driver side. start car with nothing on and let it relearn idle

you have to cycle through the menu until they are displayed in the center LCD between the tach and the speedometer

i just buy the refills for the summer blades and use winter blades when the snow comes. Subaru OEM wipers do not function well in the snow as they have a tenancy to ice up

if I am not mistaken, your tire size difference is out of spec for Subaru AWD. should be no more than 2/32 difference... Put some good tires on the car and rotate them every other oil change at a minimum, also newer FB flat 4 Subaru Legacy are heavily biased FWD in normal driving like 80/20 split

3 minutes? lol that is awesome my 14 still takes about 10 miles to get good heat..my 2002 Acura CL-S was pumping good heat in about 4 miles even on days when the temp was -30F. Wife's 2003 will throw heat out by the time i out of the park I live in... One thing that absolutely WILL aide you is once you have let the car run for a few minutes to get the oil circulating, give it enough gas so that the engine is around 3K during acceleration, it seems to warm up a bit faster.

you will get some flow but not full on flow and this is what causes the reduced heat until engine warm up

uh a bar that exerts force on the opposite rear wheel has any ability to transfer weight to the front of the car. May I suggest you go under the car and have a look as to what the sway bar is connected to? let me give you a hint: the left rear wheel lower arm , 2 mounts on the body and the right rear wheel lower arm... ditto for the front left front wheel suspension 2 mounting points on the body and right front wheel suspension all a anti roll bar does is resist roll aka lean in a turn, as a result the more you resist it the better able the suspension is able to keep the contact patch on the road on the side opposite of the lean (roll) as a result the car is more responsive to steering input, no weight is transferred front to back or vice versa...you want weight transfer front to back you either accelerate or brake and that is what VDC does (individual brake) per wheel to rotate the car as needed

yup welcome to the FB motors were coolant is restricted to the heater core until the engine warms up....took Subaru 3 years and multiple dealers to figure out the t-stat was broke in my car.. the were sure happy to feed me a line of poo about getting a remote start though....and the same poo about the computer would detect the problem etc....

no it does not for any meaningful purpose the RSB will twist as it is loaded and the result is the bar will apply force to the opposite side to resist that twisting The FRONT sway bar will act exactly the same as it is loaded...it will be put under twisting force and it will resist that by applying load to the opposite side of the car to resist twisting with a bigger RSB you are effectively lessening the load on the front bar and it works better on the front suspension as one would expect. same for a bigger FSB...

car is toast... B pillar can be repaired as long as they replace with the complete OEM assembly.. I would push to get it totaled out The airbag deployment should be enough to do it.

^ plans might be back in play, should know here by next friday

and it does nothing to transfer grip to the front, it will however transfer load from side to side and that is where the increased grip comes from as load is transferred to the unloaded side from loaded side thus dong more to keep the car level...

I get alignment done at the dealership, it cost more but in my experience I have NEVER had to take the car back. The same cannot be said for the local shop..

^Only reason Subaru would deny is if car has been salvaged... but since your dealer said the in service date was Sept 2009, SOA is not obligated to repair car. I am not surprised given my interaction with the over a car that is still under warranty when you hear things like the dealer diagnosed it and found nothing wrong, we cannot go against the dealer, etc....

+1 fpr raise car up and check for binding unloaded +1 for lower car and check for biding while loaded

^BTW I was not being mean to you, I was stressing the point that you control the situation. Good to hear the car is fixed properly now...

Legacy eat snow....I have 2 of them and I have never gotten stuck even with close to 2 ft on the ground

when you do your plugs 1. do them one at a time 2. do not use anything other recommended Subaru products as lubricants/cleaners... I did the plugs on my 5th gen and I did straight iridium, no not paying $18 a plug for iridium that have a lop on the end of the ground. There is absolutely no difference in how the car runs or fuel economy...

routinely see 6th gen around here with 135-200K on them Seen a few 5th gen near 300K on E and FB motors

buy cheap chinese dongle connect to car read codes post em up here

what he said and you have to do it every month

Plans are on hold, just informed that where I work is about to cease to exist so I have to apply for transfer within my company...