YeuEmMaiMai

depends what tires you have. The Bridgestone EL200 on the 14 were fine in the snow, now i ride of Bridgestone Turenza Serenity + and they do good as well.

i am not a fan of turbos, I'd rather have displacement a a flat 3.6 will easily go 3-400+K without major repairs.... Seems like the turbos start having issues around 130ish K. Having driven a 3.6R legacy with a CVT and a 5AT, 5AT hands down if you want acceleration

since we are all talking about brakes, why does Subaru show a single piston caliper for the car? my 14 base has dual pistons up front...

the reason it was cheaper When I pulled up to the dealer i asked them where they wanted to do the key programming and parked the car there and then remove old and install new cluster. I drove it to the dealer with one screw holding in the old cluster in so they only charge 30 minutes since I already had all 3 keys and did the R&R

tilt the seat cushin down slightly and move the seat back accordingly

only time i have hears 3 chirps is when i try to lock the car with the keyfob and a door/truck or hood is open...

does your car have a sunroof? that takes up a bit of headroom. I am 5'6" and my car has no sunroof and there is a enormous about of room above my head and I have the seat pretty far up off the floor...

Beamer .. what a surprise that you have come out in support of the OP I think the OP's statement "that these things are DANGEROUS on the highway" deserved ridicule, as have some of your previous statements .. not all, but definitately some. (Just for one example, when you complained about poor vehicle tracking but admitted that you had mismatched tires fitted?????) I have no problem with you and anyone else expressing an opinion on the road holding capabilities of these vehicles, and then suggesting mods that might give them their preferred ride .... but to make a blanket statement that "these things" ... (meaning thereby ALL these cars) are "dangerous on the highway" is in my opinion, without evidence and baseless. That is not to say that you haven't had problems with your car ... and I have previously said that if what you are saying is genuine, then you must have a real lemon, and like many other forum members, I can't believe why you have not ditched the car. But your individual unfortunate experience does not justify you, or the OP, to categorically state that "these things are dangerous on the highway" ..... there might well be other vehicles that perform better on the highway ( I don't know for a fact if that is true or not, but let's assume it is) ... but to label ALL these Subaru models as DANGEROUS, is with respect, stupid. i am sure that on the older 13-14 cars the sensitivity of the power steering has a lot to do with it... I keep my tires at 32PSI and along with the 20mm rear bar, the twitching going down the road is gone... it will start to return as i jack up the tire pressure to 35psi. I can neither confirm nor deny that the top speed of a 2.5 Legacy is 130mph...(let's just say the state trooper was surprised and all I got was a warning.. if it were to have happened)

When I did my cluster swap it was actually cheaper to have the dealer program the keys... the locksmith quoted me $125 and the dealer was like $70...

+1 for warranty work

https://www.weathertech.com/subaru/2015/legacy/side-window-deflectors/ in track ones

does Subaru recommend it? if no, do not change. I drive many a car well over 200K on regular oil. Changing it on time is the important part

yes the 20mm rear bar benefits all legacies that do not have it. it keeps the car flatter when turning and when going down the twisties... also allows you to take the clover ramps faster so you can merge better on short entrance ramps

the only time i hear that is when the car sits for extended periods of time and i first start it and i think it is due to oil drain back

miles on car? I would replace the belt and then properly tension the new one.

2 areas that are prone to squeaking A. Center control lid - fixed it by adding rubber feet to the underside of the lid B. Dashboard against windshield fixed it with a strip of black foam between dash and glass

keep it drive it?

had the same issue on my Honda, tube seals always leak well before the valve cover gaskets did. i always replace both at the same time

yeah subaru guide pins are crap... my 14 front pins were done at 60K

unfortunately saying something is probable is meaningless as where you live and how you drive the car are the 2 largest determining factors... where i live the temps range from -30F to over 100F and that alone is enough to shorten the life of any fluid including the CVT fluid... I just did the 60K service myself and when I changed my PS fluid (synthetic) it was black and when I did my brake fluid for the second time, it was also dark. car is 5 years old... no way CVT fluid is going 150-200K in that car

roll into the throttle

Subaru used to put a check valve in the hose that feeds vacuum to the booster. on my 2003 Legacy the brakes would be rock hard to push just after starting on cold days and it look a few presses to get them working. replaced that line and all good since

1. cars are vacuum filled at the factory 2. the yellow line may have been the initial fill point to allow for any remaining air to be purged and coolant comes to proper level after a few start/stop cycles. 3. your cooling system is sealed, cars do not "lose" coolant over time unless it is getting out. I have 2 subaru and i have had to add coolant only when I have worked on said car...the coolant loos due to the overflow tank is minimal at best since the hot coolant is pressurized and sealed in a closed system. If the pressure goes above the setpoint the rad cap will let some out as needed and when the system cools down, it will be drawn back in.. If you are having to add every few months something is W R O N G with the car and the first place I would look is at the radiator cap. next would be any hose were it connects to the rad/block/etc. If you heater core had even the slightest leak you would notice it right away (smell) and fogged windows with a slimy film on them.. best acceleration with the CVT is to roll into the throttle to minimize the rubber band effect

replace the pump, they are cheap and will come with a new seal. my pump was corroded and leaking after 13 years...

not sure of the charge level? draw the system down and if it holds a vacuum, then recharge with proper level of r134a. most common area of leaks on a Subaru are the compressor seals