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Lttlwing16

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    2015 Legacy

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  1. So I did my 60K interval differential service and unfortunately this time the front diff check bolt brought it's threads with it. So the converter case threads are stripped and the bolt won't torque to spec, so it's leaking diff fluid, and now my Legacy is sidelined. I've located a mechanic locally whos comfortable putting in a Time sert plug so I can continue to use the stock drain bolt. he needs to know the 1) Diameter of the bolt which I have gathered as 18mm threaded portion, and 2) the threads, which I am unsure of. I believe it to be 1.5. 3) The length is listed on the subaru parts page as 18 x 14.7 (M18 x 14.7mm). I'll get over to my subaru dealer on Weds to pickup a new drain bolt for the new insert and can measure it then, but wanted to get a jump on ordering the Time Sert stuff. Thanks in advance, David
  2. Hey everyone I just finished the rear brakes and wanted to thank everyone for their input. I also wanted to write a few things I learned while working. I followed the Service manual workflow and did *not* have or use a SSM/OBD to enter brake mode, instead disconnecting neg from battery sensor/unplugging EPB, and manual winding the piston back in. I had no issues after re-install. I used Raybestos Element3 rotors and pads from Rock Auto. 1) I found I did not need to manually compress the caliper piston after it stopped winding. It screwed all the way in for me. 2) The caliper piston winds right to go in for both the driver and passenger side. No need for separate LH and RH caliper tools. I flipped the caliper assembly over on top of the rotor and attached to the caliper bracket which had the lower bolt removed and upper bolt loosened to allow the caliper bracket to rotate upwards as far as possible. This was described in the service manual. 3) If replacing rotors, the service manual describes aligning the lug bolt marked with a black paint on the face with a small dot on the rotor. First, the paint will come off with brake cleaner so cover it with a lug nut before spraying anything down. Second, if using non-subaru replacement rotors, align the holes on the hubs and use the stock rotors to mark the new rotors, then install aligned with the marked bolt. Not exactly sure what difference this makes but there it is. Other than that, pretty straight forward brake job. Only thing I did different from the service manual was to pull some brake fluid out of the reservoir then add it back afterwards.
  3. Another couple questions from reading through the service manual.. On BR-32 the manual shows a diagram of the caliper assembly flipped over on top of the rotor with the caliper support lower bolt removed and the upper one loosened. 1) Is the caliper assembly secured to the caliper support with the upper 7mm hex bolt ? Was this removed and then placed back in once the caliper assembly was flipped over, or is it okay to just loosen the top caliper bolt (7mm hex) and flip the caliper over with the bolt still in? 2) The service manual explicitly states "Do not remove the parking brake actuator unless system malfunction or when the caliper is replaced" .. however, in the Rear Disc Brake Assembly instructions step 5 states to "remove the parking brake actuator". So I assume step 5 can be skipped unless removing for system malfunction or caliper replacement? Removal of rear disc brake assembly is listed as the first step if the SSM cannot be used, list on BR-32. One Youtuber states removing the EPB actuator prevents damage to the actuator by manually cranking it in with it attached. See the comments here: .. ** note one user commented that they had ECU problems after removing the EPB actuator
  4. Nah --sorry to make it seem so-- I think you're making a valid point. I already bought the stuff to do front and rear, so had planned on doing it. Just hard to know I'd be removing brake parts with half their life left. -- If I were to replace the rear with Subaru oem parts, then the friction characteristic would match, and it would be less likely to cause issues?
  5. The fronts look to have about half their pad life left!
  6. Any fault in replacing the rear brakes with Raybestos pads/rotors and leaving the stock subaru pads and rotors on the front for a while? I ordered and received all the parts for front and rear, but when I rotated my tires today the pads on the front have quite a good bit of life on them.
  7. Thanks for the reply -- Curious - do the calipers screw retract to a certain point THEN slide in as normal ? Or do they screw retract all the way flush? I've got a copy of the FSM but always like to triple check multiple sources before getting started. I've had good luck with the Raybestos Element 3 coated rotors and pads, and can get pads and rotors front and rear for $175 from Rock Auto. Good to know the Subaru pads are Denso. Do you know if the rotors are also Denso? Was tempted to put Subaru parts back on but it's looking like around $500 for pads/rotors from my local dealership. Thanks again, David Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
  8. Hey folks -- my 2015 needs it's rear brakes done and I just wanted to double check-- This job is safe to do WITHOUT putting the car into "brake service mode" with SSM or OBDII as long as one releases parking brake, disconnects the neg terminal on the battery AND removes the electronic connector to the EPB on the caliper. Didn't know if the "brake service mode" does more than disabling the EPB from actuating, such as re-calibrating the EPB after exiting the service mode. Also -- any recommends on good non-subaru OEM replacement pads/rotors. I typically get Raybestos stuff from Rock Auto. Thanks, David
  9. Thanks for the input! The gravity drain worked great apart from being unable to aspirate the older fluid from behind the divider. I work in healthcare and was able to use a drain bag we use for certain surgical drains. Worked like a charm. Here's the exact one I used. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013TLIC1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pMBpFbCMH1Q8B) From what I'm reading the separated reservoir is part of the dual braking system as a second reservoir that is filled from the front reservoir. It's part of a redundant system so the whole system doesn't lose pressure That said still haven't seen anywhere that it can be manually drained,apart from unhooking the brake lines from the master cylinder. Which I'm not messing with to just change the fluid.
  10. is it possible to remove all the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir? It seems there is a divider that I can't get the fluid out from. I'm trying to use the gravity drain method, but it seems that old fluid behind the reservoir isn't budging. I even have my wife come out and pump the brake a couple times while I opened and closed the bleeder screw. Here's a cross post from Reddit:
  11. Yeah, it's weird. The ceramic insulators broke on both the new (NGK) plugs I put in and the old ones I put back in. I think what was happening was the magnetic plug socket was attracted to the end of the plug, which caused the inside metal of the socket to knock against the ceramic. Additionally, the magnet would pull of the plug as I was installing/changing bits/ratchets. and I'd have to reseat on the plug in the well, where above I think was occuring. Folks from Napa, autozone, pepboys, and the Subaru service techs I spoke to said you don't gap iridium, and .1 is enough to make a difference. *Shoulder shrug*. I didn't even check the subaru branded NGK's (per the Subaru service tech's recommendation), just put them in and they worked. Fingers crossed I don't run into problems down the road from driving around with occasionally misfires.
  12. Will attempt to wash them out tonight. Hopefully that's the issue. I'll also try to fully seat the ignition coil packs on the coils. Could also be part of the issue. Damn things are hard to get fully seated.
  13. *Facepalm* you're completely right. I saw the tip from a 1a autoparts repair video, and the connectors were stuck tight so I figured just a drop while the connector is connected wouldn't hurt. Put it on there Weds , probably can spray them off tonight/tomorrow. Can I use MAF cleaner on the connections, or do I need to use actual electronics cleaner? Possible it did long term damage?
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