YeuEmMaiMai

did the 20mm Subaru one, best bang for the buck. was $87 shipped to my house 3 years ago. the car stays flat when cornering with minimal impact (ie i cannot tell the difference) in day to day driving. car is much more enjoyable on twisties... Steering is even better at point where you want to go...

I have 2015 Ford Mustang GT fogs in my car, best upgrade ever.. $150 for the set and it is plug and play

rough roads? I have 2 Subaru and the 2003 ate a right front bearing at 80K due to a pothole. the other 3 bearings are at 140K 2014 is at 62K and bearings are fine

most of them throw it on a power source and spin it, chances of them landing on a dead armature contact is fairly slim... that is why you need the oscilloscope and amp clamp... Here is how you do it

make sure the antenna is hanging down from the garage door motor assembly? should be a wire about 2 ft long. range on our old unit was about 200 ft.

take starter out, test it using an o-scope and amp clam and look for the dead spot in the armature

the TCM does learn how you drive the car and reacts accordingly... I am very gentle on my car typically accelerating around 2 to 2.3K on the tach and the machine is very smooth. it gets confused when i ask for more throttle on rare occasions...(ie my foot is in it to pass or merge on the FWY)

my 14 came with 3 keys 2 with integrated key fobs and one gray key with no key fob. The gray one is the oh crap, i locked my keys in my car kind of deal for me... ie never gets used

that's odd as the 15 16 18 and 19 loaners i drove all bypassed the shifting when WOT. CVT accelerates faster when it does not have to go between predefined shift points...

1. yes it is between actual predefined ratios 2. the car simulates sifts until you put the petal to the floor at which point it reverts back to pegging the engine at the HP peak and letting the car accellerate using the best ratio as speed increases.

had to do front brakes at 60K as the drivers side pad got jammed up in the bracket and had to be removed with a sledge hammer.. filed down the brackets and installed new hardware and pads, bled the brakes and we are now good to go... ironically the car "passed" quite a few multi point inspections and this issue had been going on for a while...

stop start = that check box that allows you to say you get .000000000000001 more mpg...

warm car up lift up level surface go under drain and fill to it comes out the fill hole... outback here https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2013+outback+cvt+fluid+change legacy is idenical

2012 legacy is the older EJ engine, not known for oil consumption. is known for crap head gaskets

picked up my car yesterday and finally it is all fixed... runs perfectly and no more issues.

new CVT has 18K on it, runs great, be careful when changing front differential fluid, some castings are weak and will fail when you retighten drain bolt

did they do just the solenoid or the entire valve body?

you can test this easily, run a ground from the cluster to the frame and if the error immediately goes away, you know the issue.

yeah I did not hear any piston slap either....

that is not going to fix my issue as my throttle plate is clean enough to eat off of...

I should have said Loud when you get on the throttle or standing outside of the car when running.. but going down the road it is quiet..

Yes, I do have a loaner, a 2019 Impreza, Things I like quiet roomy (driver POV) great visibility Pretty decent interior quality Things I do not like Instrumentation armrest has a notch where the cup holder is... Gas mileage (26 on the same route my previous loaner was averaging 28+) Loud

This is a picture of my car, oh wait... I have not seen my car for 2 of the last 3 weeks as the dealer tries to sort out a p0171 code... Car has a new T-stat, front O2, and MAF sensor over the 2 years 9 months I have had the car, I have not seem it for at least 3 months due to this poor running when cold issue that is ongoing. Last picture of car:

the change was made in 2013, the base clarion head unit allows for BT streaming. It works well enough.

that's normal for piston slap... it lessens under load and as the engine warms up. my 2003 was so bad it sounded like diesel....so when I had the engine resealed, I had them replace the pistons at 69K. now at 132K you get the slap as it warms up but it is barely noticeable. This is not unusual for engines with really short piston skirts. Matter of fact, that is how I got my 2003 Legacy many years ago with 62K on it, they thought it was rod knock and I knew better as rod knock does not go away as engine warms up or as load is applied.