YeuEmMaiMai

have them do a relearn on it...

incorrectly aimed or people are not used to the car being 3+" higher than most cars (8.7 inches of ground clearance. Do you carry junk in your trunk? that will cause misalignment of headlights.

Naw we got the point and it you are better off buying instead of leasing... just be diligent on your searching and you will find a good car. I just wrote a check for $9200 to buy a 2010 outback 3.6R with 140K on it. did some minor repairs and I am sill under $10K for the car... My last car I paid $23K for it and I put down $7K, paid $3K the first month using the proceeds from the sale of my 2002 Acura CL-S, and made the final payment 10 months later. (the payment for my $14 legacy was $312 a month). the 2003 Legacy that I bought in 2014 for $3K for, $5K to fix and 80K later it is still running fine...

run far run fast and what is the killer deal on said price? Also mileage? I paid 8500 for a 2010 outback 3.6R with 140K on it add in 770 for the state taxes and fees for a total of 9200. I had to replace 2 headlight bulbs trans drain and fill oil change front and rear end links and bushings air filter wiper blades cabin filter things that do not work 1 - heated seats (both of them) upgrades done to car LED fogs LED interior lights Megan Racing strut bar for the front New tires

^does not matter bar fits all variants of the car.

1. run car past insurance agent for 2 reasons a. quote b. they can tell you if the car is salvage or not 2. drive the car a fair distance, I did 30 miles last car i test drove. this will allow for the car to reach operating temp and more time for issues to show up when warm. your test drive should include side streets, main streets, and a freeway. 2. If you drive the car and like it, take care for a detailed inspection. If owner balks, run.

I was just trying to keep it simple as with Subaru and most other manufacturers, their financial department owns the lease/car. They will typically let the dealer sell the car and they divvy up the proceeds... my 14 was a lease return and was sold to me by the same dealer that originally leased it. I do know there are exceptions to the above.

I've got it's bigger brother the outback and all I gotta say is I love driving the outback.. very car like and extremely quiet on the inside when powered by the ever so thirsty 3.6L flat 6...

leasing = renting and do not let anyone tell you different. we will use the current legacy lease for $235/month for the base so your payments would be (not including tax, title, fees, etc) for 36 months (based upon the zip code I entered) $8460 $2635 due at signing $0 security deposit so for 3 years it cost you at a minimum $11,095 on a car that costs $22,745 so yeah you paid for nearly half of the car that you have to return or buy at an inflated price.. To add insult to injury Subaru will then turn around and SELL that car roughly $18K. so yeah you get the short end of that stick

front or rear differential.

one is not required as the car's firewall resists the flexing

Car already has a cold air intake...

try searching on said part number 23770AA07A and you will find that the pully (according to Subaru does not work for 10-12) https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2014_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Sedan-Plus/PULLEY-IDLER/49233663/23770AA07A.html

the colder it gets the more pronounced the warm up is. Subaru purposely hold engine revs high to get the engine to warm up faster. with my 14 when it is -30F out, the car will rev up to 3K and stay there until it warms up... it is annoying to say the least.

get some lithium grease and spray the locking mechanism and then using the hood lever work the cable and lock assembly.. should be able to open hood after a few pulls on the cable.

So fellas, what fluid do you use in your E5AT? Subaru OEM or something else?

Normal behavior

the 2010 outback I have now has a Johnson Controls Champion battery installed and it is a AGM. not sure of the installation date as it is not on said battery. Must be somewhat new as it cranks the car over good even when it has been -10F and colder outside.

does the keyless entry that came on the car standard not work? as far as I know all legacies from 2010 up have it build into the key in the us.

cool, thanks, I'll just move the E4AT to the newer stuff then as it simplifies maint cost on my end

LGT go for about 10K here, most of them are beat down pretty good...I thought about one but in the end I went the 3.6R route

did you show them all of the work done to the car?.... sorry to hear it is totaled but it is a 10 year old car and the fix to value is not favorable. one option is you could buy it back and then fix it.

Level 10, I do not trust them, they claimed to have solved the Hondamatic 5AT problems and people that got their transmission had them blow up anyways.

I have 3 Subaru, 2 are automatics and one is CVT. I need to know if the fluid in a 2003 Legacy 4EAT is the same as the fluid in a 2010 Outback 3.6R 5EAT. I would prefer to use Valvoline full synthetic in both if the fluids are the same. I use it in the 4EAT and it has been awesome over the last 80+K miles on that car.

Napa quoted me $18 for the specific NGK Subaru plugs that have the lip on the electrode, I just took the regular iridium ones