kzr750r1

But if the hubs have never been replaced its a good time to replace.

Looks good. Run it! Sorry I thought this was DOHC motor.

For what it's worth just replace it. I was about to keep running the exhaust cams gears on mine and eventually decided it's not worth the risk. These are cheaper than having it break later. I had already bought the intake gears so it was a no brainer. Mine were just a little chewed on the wrench points. But after 254K opted for new.

Looks like the roads around Grizzly peak/Moraga? But this turn is not familiar to me.

Not yet. I've been dealing with wiper fluid hoses disintegrating. Snapped two mount points on the rear hatch top getting to the rear window section that burst. Totally understand not wanting to take the plastic bits off if you don't need to.

Sounds like Hub noise to me. I had to replace both front CV lately as well. Tried to rebuild re grease and one was pooched. So I punted them to raxels. Good company. https://www.raxles.com/

Pretty sure I'd have to log the monitors to get that data captured. Will keep an eye on it. Just about time to drop the oil again. We have been driving it. Had the daughter unit drive a back road loop this weekend, I ride the bikes there from time to time. She needs to work on steering input and breaking. Good place to get a feel of the car. Yesterday was her first non supervised drive to school. Car is back without damage.

We were at 0 for a bit last I was looking at 1C. It's been -7 to 5%. Depends on ambient temp and how it's being driven. Daughter is a more conservative than my foot. DAM seems to settle quickly if it go's south, back to 1 after a few miles. 1A looks to creep + after running and idling a bit. Took it out so my daughter was not distracted going to school this morning. Coming up on my next OC and will dig more. Have not seen a loose hose or any issues with vac lines, intake, TB hose... All look good. May be time to build a smoke rig.

Still getting a DAM dip from time to time and AF learning is constantly changing. Understood the fuel trims will change. Odd is the changes seem to swing a bunch. Can't find an air leak, yet. Haven't reset the ECU. Going to let the unit do it's thing. May order a new knock sensor next and a fuel pump. Pump is probably 8 years old and this may be the original knock sensor. I can't remember if I replaced it on the first rebuild. Thought I found a culprit being one of the turbo heat shield bolts was not replaced. But then NOPE... That's not it.

+1 on the Whiteline bar kit. Although I used the Moog links. Transformed the car. On another note I'm about to pull the movetech as they have begun to groan over bumps after chassis heat soak. If you have put the STI bushings in it them then you will not have this problem. I'm without a press but have the old links and about to take them to a shop for replacement. This will be set #4 for the LCA for me after 254K.

thanks for keeping this rolling. Although my adapter came with a marketplace buy of the double din parts needed it was clear it was one of yours. Still working great.

You will still need to check the valve gap after the heads are torqued. Bench setting is a good starting point. Get the ARP head studs. For sure go with new oil cooler/hoses/VVT. Read up on oil pumps. Street car has no need for larger pump. Water pump preference for me is the WRX cast wheel version. #4 cylinder cooling mod. Just put mine back together after killing it in April this year. Find the right shop in your area to refresh your SB and heads. It's not hard. Just tedious bunch of steps. Clean it all. New gaskets yada yada...

AVO were not perfect either. On the car still, from what I remember the welds kept them from sitting square on the mount point. Placed a large fender washer to get them to sit square.

Thanks for turning me on to this company. GLWTS!

Did subaru change to blue in the later versions? I've always used the long life Green fluid from Subaru. Good point on the AT fluid.

Question more so is if you are ready to spend 5K to rebuild when it pooches. These cars take some care to keep running no matter how they are treated by the PO.

Bump. Custom VF40 installed is working great. Thanks for all the advice in the process. Someone needs these, if your going rotated don't hesitate!

M45 if your in Nor Cal. They are gearing up. Expanded the machine shop across the street. Getting ready to supply short or long blocks far east as Colorado. I had them build the shortblock and do the heads on this last rebuild. So far 1000+ miles in and little drama other than my mistake of not cleaning the MAF sensor before breaking and tuning. There is zero piston slap on startup! Running clean DAM now. Anyhow. Good crew there. https://www.m45automotive.com/

Yeah. Didn't make a difference always zero. Trying to be nice to this motor for now. Not flogging it yet. But have pushed it to 15+ psi for a short time. Still kicking myself for not cleaning this sensor before break in and tune.

Chugging along ok now. Two runs in no DAM drop. Going to email a couple driving logs to Travis at Snail and admit I was a dumb ass brining a car in for tune with a dirty MAF sensor.

Yes. I hit the sensors in the right spot. Were about to go drive some more. Looks like all of these are labeled "learning" so will take a look about the over and under % on my way.

No not an option on the AP to beep. Took a drive over the Altamont and back yesterday eve. Full tank of the same fuel. Only change this time was I pulled the belly pan (long shot). Did find the MAF was a bit dirty. Pissed at myself I didn't clean it before first start. No dip in DAM the entire trip. Reading up on the Cobb site how to be sure what monitors are LTFT. Been a while since I dug this deep into these list of acronyms...

Yeah I'll stop resetting. DAM dipped to .875 for a little bit then returned to 1 soon after. Just about to go out and look at some things. Pull the belly pan (for now). Check for hoses that may have popped. Clean the MAF sensor. Pretty sure I have a can of that type in the horde. It's highly unlikely there is a air leak. Gas quality? Possibly? I go to costco nearly every time. Never had an issue like this unless it was a major issue. Hence the concern. Was reading up on monitors to populate on the guage and the data log. Cobb is talking about looking at DAM, Feedback Knock Correction, Fine knock learning. I have one with most all the AF present so between the two clusters may have something to look at later.

Checking into this now. Thanks!

Still getting some DAM drops. Not sure why yet. Going to firm up some suspension and see if the belly pan risers are causing some noise. I'm also considering buying a new DW65C since this one is about 8 to 10 years old. Need to blast the MAF clean too. Been a few miles there. Just thinking back what changed in the operation and the only other item was an oil change. Having a hard time thinking the oil is a cause. Monitors, I'm going to change some gauges layout to watch the duty cycle on the pump and other items. Really odd. Did just fine for the entire day after tune. Then once restart and roll back to the house later that night it dropped to .50 then creeped back to .675. Just reset the ECU. Held 1 for most of the way to daughters school then dipped to .875 and back to 1. Held that for the trip home. Currently there are some after market lower control arms on it that just make a shit ton of noise after the chassis heat soaks. I have the original control arms and just need to swap the bushings. New front standard spec and the big rear WRX/STI. Was really happy years ago getting rid of the OBXT rear bushing but never changed the sway bars till much later. Sway bar swap should have been first on the mod list. Totally transforms the car.