Flinkly

Oh no, i just did little parts here and there. Contractor did most of the shower (i hate tile), i ordered the glass done on my own, and the counter. They pulled the old shower and bathtub. I had actually done the floor prior (used to be carpet), but they redid it with the same vinyl plank. I did little things like faucets, lights, mirror, towel bars, doorknobs, etc. Not worth my time to do the other things.

Pics of finished bath, save for the two frameless mirrors i put up with french cleats. Pretty proud of it too.

Lol, should post a finished picture of the master bath. As for today, we recently had our giant 2 level deck torn out and stamped concrete pad put in. Today i'm putting in a temp 4 step stair from our back door to the pad. $100 just for temp materials. Final steps and landing will eat quite a bit of room...

L/R for the first, we'll have to wait and see what the second one does

I have a picture like that from years back. worked with Tactrix info to un-brick my ECU. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5314398&postcount=1732

Unplug the sensor and try again? Maybe a short from wiring or something.

Saw you in the wagon yesterday. Maybe leaving costco. Could see that you're still enjoying it!

Just watched the VIZ WAG launch out of a stoplight. Quite an angle front to back. Whish i was paying attention to who was at the light, woulda video'd it!

Quite a few VF37 setups around the nets to satisfy the ELH desire.

... but is it nitrided?

To say it simpler, if you aren't using your aftermarket wideband, just move your front o2 to the bellmouth. Cable is long enough, although i think you might have to pull out a zip tie hold. And unplug the wideband sensor and controller.

So it hasn't been said, oddly, but i bought my pump from subaru so i could have a cast impeller, rather than a stamped one. There's been concern about cavitation in regards to the stamped variety. Never seen any proven issue though, but peace of mind is always a good thing with a turbo subie motor.

Just to confirm what i think you're saying, that the 2010-12 LGT and Ascent thermostats are all a direct replacement from a mechanical size perspective? the difference being the T-stat opening temp. I like the idea of at least moving to a 10-12 LGT T-stat, since i don't track and rarely really boost mine. and moving to 182 or 192 could offset the warmup "issue" that kept me from getting the fancy koyorad, which would also be a great addition to the change. The T-stat would set your lower temp and the much more efficient all Al koyorad would keep you from going much higher. honestly, you need to set up a paypal or patreon account.

good info on the springs. i ordered some, but also looked at my calipers for a refresher on general construction. they don't appear easy to put on with our caliper style. assume it would be way easier on a fixed (vs. our floating) type. ooooh, i'd love a warmer t-stat. Crazy info on the fakes! i can't even see an appreciable difference between what they show as real and fake, except maybe the rougher edges to the threads and metal. i (probably wrongly) assume that Rock Auto is getting theirs from a legit source. my last set was from mSprank, so hopefully they're legit, although i'm hopefully changing them soon due mostly to age. But similar pricing at some other places i think of as legit (although 30% higher cost than RA). Maybe all the plugs on RA for NGK are fakes and they just mirror the pricing of true parts -30%... NGK.com LFR6BHX $10.92 each (Ruthenium + fancy tips) SILFR6B8 $16.13 each (Iridium + fancy tips) Napa.com LFR6BHX $11.99 each (Ruthenium + fancy tips) SILFR6B8 $17.49 each (Iridium + fancy tips)

also, regarding the whole spark plug discussion, i did some additional homework and here are my results (documenting for all of us): Plugs in "rank" order with part name/number/cost (from RA) Fancy GND tip Ruthenium HX LFR6BHX P# 93420 $7.85 each Iridium ? SILFR6B8 P# 373 $11.72 each Tapered GND Tip Iridium IX LFR6AIX P# 93893 $5.14 each LFR6AIX-11 P# 6619 $5.19 each Regular GND tip Iridium OEM SILFR6A P# 7913 $8.90 each Looks like we should buy the fanciest Ruthenium HX ones if you care about maximizing MPG, power, etc (due to cost mainly). Or if you just want to keep the car running for "cheap", then get the tapered tip Iridium ones. save $11 per plug change. makes me wonder how much real world money you can save from MPG within 60k mile suggested replacement interval... Lastly, what are people running for gap? NGK lists 0.030 for most of these OEM application plugs, with 2 listed at .032. Sprank told me many moons ago that he gaps to 0.026-0.028 (stated that it "...will make slightly more power and just works better"). Although it's probably best to double check that they're all gapped the same/correctly and leave them alone...

so there is one thing about the Subaru brakes we have that don't help: they're floating/single sided. So this will still help, but will probably only move one pad from the disk, rather than move both pads back from the disk. But since I've not used one, maybe that cute dimple in the middle of the spring located the center of the spring in the center of the disk, but then you're adding back drag if it's touching the disk to locate, and i would imagine it wouldn't last long. but who knows what it will do in practice. just need to order some. or maybe get some brembo's or 4 pots to upgrade to and reap ALL the benefit! Justification!

i've always been a fan of putting my nut butter all over eggs

wowsa, bringing this thread into the new year! anyways, i was just browsing some ecomodder threads and saw one about "drag reduction clips" for disk brakes. couldn't think of what this meant till i started reading the thread, but they (try) to keep your pads off the disk unless you're actively braking, thus eliminating drag and helping MPG (among other things). Raybestos sells them for the front on our cars, but maybe you could mod them to work on the rear as well. will have to look into it and see how it does. they're super cheap, super easy to install and should prolong the pads/disk life as well, so a win-win-win. Clips.pdf

no reply for me yet...

i'd also love to get their cast twinscroll divorced downpipe flange, but can't justify that when i have a perfectly fine DP already. probably wouldn't get it all to fit under the OEM covers anyways.

i thanked this post, but not because i know about porn sites or their share buttons. it's for a friend. move along.

I wish i had got a 5" vs. my 4...

What do you all use to get sap off the paint? Have 2 spots to clean up, but want to be gentle to the almost 12 year old paint.

I never new you had an outback either. When i first read your post, i was like, "i thought he had an lgt? Must be thinking of another member..." Shoulda posted about it. We might have been able to help you get it modded.

Starting to make my outback's chritmas list: - polyurethane exhaust hangers - leather steering wheel wrap - ? Then start doing some work: - splice back together my dash dim light - remove window modules (previous owner) - get comp./leak down test done - finish fuel pump rewire (larger gauge + relay) - leather conditioning + general interior clean - install 20mm rubber rear sway bushing (quit the squeeks) - etc. Off next week, back to work for a week, then off till january. Plenty of house projects too.