compsurge

I assume you mean center differential transfer drive and driven gears? This is associated with a whine at 35-40+ mph and some weird whirring sounds when at low speed. The differential itself is typically not damaged. It's $133 in parts from Heuberger. Repair is a two day operation since you have to wait for fujibond to cure. nasioc has a thread here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2071286. Part numbers in that thread are correct for the LGT (the parts system will supersede them properly) I did my own and saved $600+ even with buying a shop press and bearing puller/separator. It is definitely a DIY job. The bearings that go bad have been through one or two revisions in part number since originally made, so they might last a lot longer. Mine were bad at 74k (from understanding that the noise wasn't actually normal , I also bought the car like that). I replaced at 103k when it started getting louder.

I'm about to be a fool. If everything goes right, I'll be foolin with goldies today.

How much for trimmed engine cover? Where are you in VA?

I want to trade my grille for an oem unit. Straight trade. Crap pic of mine here: Also, fulton, what's this about you selling old LGT?

The only STi knockoffs I know of are the Rota Gravels, and they are quite nice looking, but do not look like the '04 STi BBS. The '04 STi BBS are around 15lbs / wheel. I believe the Gravels are 23lbs/wheel. I may end up picking a set of the Gravels up for DD use and retiring my soon-to-be-acquired BBS for auto-X duty next year. It's smarter to buy whatever fits your budget and driving style.

running no tunes on those mods will lead to bad things

What mods do you have? If it's just a downpipe and the Cobb Stage 2 tune, you'll be safe. I'd inspect the inlet tube, vacuum lines, intercooler tabs for separation, and anything mechanical that could be loose.

I found this slightly amusing.

Maryland made me a PBJ sandwich as well. Do not speed on rt 4.

Had I known about the untrue myths about the Advance/Duralast axles causing vibration, I wouldn't have replaced the boot.

Could be a wheel bearing. If you can replace it yourself, it's a $140 part and doesn't require that much effort to change if you have a good impact gun and 32mm socket for the axle nut. CV is typically going to make noise like a clicking/rubbing sound in one sharp turn direction. A wheel bearing will be more of a hum that typically gets louder in one direction. Only other thing I can think of is center differential transfer drive bearings - I just replaced these myself for $140 in parts (I bought a HF 20 ton press just for this job). You would have a whining associated with light throttle input around 35-40+mph and an odd, whirring, marblelike? sound at low speed - I was set on recording the sound, but I forgot :\ Youtube has a lot of samples too. Mine looked like this: https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/538364_335436503199884_1663376535_n.jpg I assume it could be a possibility with the 2.5i, as the 5MT seem to share this parts set across the board.

That is the piece that goes inside the green cup. It goes in after the three bearings are inserted. You can see it in this post in the third photo.

Do you have a link?

Already found that thanks. I was curious about the bbs gold. I don't know how different Rota and BBS are with their color.

Anyone have a good shot of ABP with gold?

If you can't find a junk yard set, you could get some gr-2's off tire rack.

Painted valve covers looks awesome... on the stand. Once you put it in the car, you can't tell it's been done unless you look hard Still worth it!

Take your time doing this: remove all trunk liner pieces, then proceed to pop the side panels off using a long tape-wrapped screw driver, starting at the D-pillar/liftgate sides. I wasn't able to get the side panels off (something around the seat belt constrains them). I wore long sleeve shirt and reached under the panel while propping it out to do the loosening/tightening/torquing. If you don't have a deep 17mm socket, do get one before this. I had to make one up using electrical tape and my shallow socket.

There's no way I'd do it again without an impact gun.

I have proven once again that you do not need air tools (I did my rear bolt with only a breaker bar and a 1/2" ratchet... and a 4' cheater. I am submitting my Subaru assembly specialist application now.

Looks good to me and that is a nice blue!

I think so. You installed the conical washer correctly? Pics are under advanced >manage attachments.

Personally, I'd say that is in need of some replacement. You might want to verify the resistance listed as acceptable in the spec list in the service manual. Also, I suppose you could try sandpaper on the corrosion to see if it helps. When were plug wires and spark plugs changed out?

Did you get them in? If you used a pipe cutter, I guarantee you took off enough material. The protrusion on the strut is pulled into the housing and it takes some force to get it in. It will stop as soon as the bottom hits. You can't break anything in this process, so don't fear!

Forcefully remove it using the bolt in the bottom with a hammer would be my guess.