Berge56

I did the same on my heads as well.

JMP's custom VF40 is a fantastic reliable turbo. I installed one on my buddies car and it spools very quick and is a blast on the street.

I've done 4 of the valve body mods for myself and some friends and family. All of them love the way the car shifts after the mod and I never did the relearn process. The car usually took a few hundred miles of driving and then it was good to go. I tend to drive in sport mod more often and the car seems to be a bit more aggressive in that mode.

On my OBXT the fuel dampers and FPR are right next to the driver strut tower. When I did my custom setup, I did parrallel lines that t in the middle and then one line for the supply and one line for the return each got routed to the fuel area by the drivers strut tower. I hope that makes sense.

290/330 @ 20psi on EFI's dyno tuned by Calvin. 05 OBXT 5EAT with 19 sti EJ257 with rebuilt heads and 25k on the tune since new engine. Car is a blast to drive! JMB 16g turbo with billet wheel ID1000 TBE TGV deletes Big TMIC KS Tech 73MM CAI Perrin Turbo inlet Grimspeed EBCS Transgo JR shift kit Aux thermostat controlled transmission cooler ARP headstuds

The software is old....but its comforting. HAHA Stupid Facebook groups are killing the forums. Have fun trying to research your Check engine light codes on Facebook. Endless crap there with little to no resolutions posted. Damn kids need to get off my lawn!

As long as he used a MLS head gasket, you should be good for a very long time.

My buddy just had these door openers installed at his house. Super quiet, fast and slick! You're gonna love em!

JMP just rebuilt by 16g. It sounds amazing and I can't wait to get retuned since he added a billet wheel. Keep up the good work!

I've installed both AEM and DW and they are both plug and play as other have said. Read up on how to do it and you should be fine.

Welcome! Look forward to seeing the journal and how you progress with it! Always love me some JDM parts.

The WRX and STi guys have been doing this for years with aftermarket bolt on's. I built my EJ257 with forged pistons and rods and make 400whp all day on 93. Been doing it for 25k and every time I drive the car it sees full boost at some point or another. It's absolutely possible and you can have longevity with it too... Subaru just needs to make some changes with internals, and more than likely add a bigger turbo. Heck my wifes 2.0 FXT made 280 whp with a TMIC, charge pipe and EBCS. The biggest downfall the 2.0's had against them is making TQ too fast (when tuned aggressively) and bending rods causing the bearing to spin.

Sweet! I had a parts car and swapped the motors thinking that was it. Then my next thought was the steering column stalk. Glad I found this thread....saved me some extra work. I will check wiring next. This drives me nuts! Nice work guys!

Yes. I've built 4 of these engines and used everything form 2018 shortblocks to R/A blocks. Use OEM headgaskets and ARP headstuds. If the motor spun a bearing, get a new oil cooler as you can't clean them. Take everything apart and make sure everything is clean with no RTV chunks hiding anywhere.

Grab an STI RA block to start and you will have better pistons than the regular old STI SB. With a good tune on e85, 350 should be super easy. Hell on 93 350 is achievable reliably.

Your o2 sensor should be in your header and not in your downpipe. I would get the o2 installed in the correct position, leave your rear o2 sensor hooked up as it gives your front o2 sensor feedback. It sounds like you need to have your car tuned and I would highly suggest taking it a professional as it's not worth trying to figure it out on your own. These engines are sensitive and bad tunes can lead to a bad motor fast.

I would start with plugs and wires. They are relatively cheap and it should be replaced anyways. Swap those and report back. To test the coil you could pull the plug wire for the cylinder in question and hook it up to an old spark plug or a new plug before you install it. Have the metal hook part of the spark plug touch some sort of metal on the engine and have someone turn the car over to see if that plug sparks.

Everyone should go EL for better EJ longevity as well. The car will still have the some of that subie "rumble" all depends on what TBE you install. You want an exhaust that gives you a deep rumble like a cobb to make EL headers not sound like a riced out honda. HAHA

After resetting the ECU I always let the car idle for 3-5 minutes to relearn fuel trims.

What they said! ^

In my 05 OBXT the TCU is under the dash on the driver side towards the left side of the clutch.

Hexmods doesn't really do this stuff anymore. However he created a fantastic How to thread of taking a transgo shift kit and doing the work yourself. If you are mecahnically inclined and can follow directions, you should be able to do this work. I would read through his how to thread completely before ordering anything to see if it's something you could handle. First link give you the overview and how this only applies to the 05-07 years. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/valve-body-mods-giant-leaps-forward-160101.html I've used this walkthrough 4 different times and it's worked perfectly. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-transgo-5eat-hd2-shift-kit-detailed-walkthrough-179771.html

I see that now. HAHA I would still check to make sure both AVCS position angles should be the same. Those codes usually pop because the angle is not jiving with what the ECU is calling for. Maybe the cam gear itself is some junk in it causing the position angle to be out of whack?

Happened to my wifes 2015FXT. Tire shop called and said one stud was going to break. Mind you I had just swapped the tires and use a tq wrench. I told them to send it, snap the lug and I would change the lugs later. Took me 30 minutes a side and I now have brand new wheel studs.

Have you cleaned your OCV's? They are located on the top front of each valve cover. Have you checked your AVCS position angles? Both sides should be almost identical.