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Berge56

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  • Location
    Mass
  • Car
    04 WRX with some mods and 00 LGT
  • Interests
    Working on Subies
  • Occupation
    Business Analyst

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  1. Bump for a fantastic Turbo. I have 3 of Johns turbos in 3 different obxt's including my car and 2 customer's cars and they are all amazing.
  2. First I've heard this. Do you happen to know why the blue belt is a no no?
  3. Sounds like the replacement trans has a bad temp sensor in the valve body. I would start with replacing that sensor. If you have your old Trans you could start by taking the pan off of it and locating the sensor. Then swap it into the new/used trans in the car.
  4. Unless you are looking to lower the car or add spring stiffness to the ride, factory springs are just fine to reuse. If you have spring compressors and are not afraid of tackling the job, I would just get new top hats and struts and swap the springs over. I have never personally tried the loaded strut option as typically customers want to keep cost down.
  5. You don't need oil seals since you are just changing the hard parts (tie rods) of the steering components. not sure what gears you are ordering, but typically you need inner and outer tie rods, new boots since your doing it with clamps or zip ties can work in a pinch, the washers can be reused or for the cost you can get new. Once you get in there you will see it's not that bad.
  6. I would only use an OEM front o2 sensor. If you want to add wideband, add it downstream with a 10 degree angle from horizontal position. I used the AEM wideband and have had great success with it.
  7. Also when you remove the engine make sure the TC is seated in the trans before reinstalling the engine. To do this just rotate the TC by hand while giving some slight pressure towards the transmission. Failure to making sure your TC is seated can result in a blown transmission as the TC won't be seated properly with the internal transmission pump. The picture with the photobucket water stamp on it is the incorrect depth. The top view picture shows the correct depth the TC is supposed to be seated into the transmission.
  8. If you decide you don't want the zip ties anymore, Iwire makes replacement clips for like 15 bucks and you will be back in business. They even have gray and black so you don't mix up front and rear wiring. They are simple to unpin the oem clip and then slide on the new end. They have install insturctions on the website as well. https://iwireusa.com/products/ignition-coil-plug-b
  9. Those spring clamps lose their ability to stay tight over time. you can try to reposition the clamp or swap it out with a good worm gear clamp. The hose is most likely fine, just a worn out spring clamp.
  10. The RA blocks are built a little stronger and cost slightly more than the regular EJ257. Some of the key features of the RA block is as follows. Same casting as the latest EJ motors, "705" Piston crowns are 2mm thicker More support on piston wrist pins Lower amount of cantilever produced Slightly heavier pistons increase durability Same strong Con Rods as 2018 STI Overall, less prone to failure than previous STI blocks Here is the part number for the RA block: 10103AD020
  11. In my situation I believe I replaced the cam sensor first, It was bad, but I still had the hesitation and random misfire code. Once I replaced both OCV's car drove like new again. It's been 30k miles since doing this and the car still drives great.
  12. I would say its most likely bad headgaskets. The heads will need to be decked/resurfaced by a machine shop. Use OEM gaskets or Felpro MLS head gaskets. Since you are in there you could slap in some ARP headbolts for extra insurance. I would also replace the timing belt component kit as its due if the service intervals of 105k were followed. Replace the water pump as well with a new OEM thermostat. At this point this will make sure all of the internal cooling components of the engine are in good working order. Before you tackle the headgaskets I would hookup the heater core and see why that was bypassed in the first place. If it was the because the heater core leaks, since you're in South Florida you could bypass it with a looped hose to continue coolant flow for the engine. Or you could just make sure the engine side does have the coolant lines looped so that the coolant flow for the engine isn't just blocked off. Those coolant lines are by the starter/steering column connection point inside the engine bay.
  13. That is a coolant line that runs from your water pump to your heater core. That clip should be around the hose. Get a pair of long needle nose plyers, you should be able to reach down with them, squeeze the clip and get it back around the hose.
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