Berge56

How old is the oil? Did the OCV's look nice and clean?

I was very happy with Rev9 TMIC fitment. They machined out bolt reliefs so you can get a socket on the turbo bolts. They took an original design and made it better. Glad to hear the inlet was a good fit!

I don't and if I did it would be very hard to see anything. I mean I basically used 2 T's under the center of the intake manifold to create parallel system and had the supply and return lines run under the TMIC over to the FPR by the driver strut tower.

Could be anything. I recently had a center diff partially blow up (stripped teeth off the gears of the center diff). I bought a used 5eat for 400 bucks and just swapped it out. My car had 200k on it and the used 5eat I picked up had around 110k. Once you swap the unit, you could start tearing it down to see what exactly let go.

I used 14 WRX fuel rails that I modified to be parallel. I added 07 sti TGV's deletes I did myself. I'm running ID1000 injectors and the stock FPR. I have zero issues with idle and the car runs fantastic. My tuner recommended the ID1000's as well. Not because of the power I was going to make, but the quality and tuning ability. Plus I'd rather have the extra room when it comes to fuel.

Yes you can replace the real tail section of the transmission with it still in the car. Done this a few different times for various reasons in multiples models. But as others have said, you may want to swap the transmission or have your torn down and inspected as others parts of the transmission could be damaged or having foreign material/broken parts where it does not belong.

Curious on the fitment and quality of the rev 9.

The AVCS left and right is what you wanted to see. Sounds to me like you have a enough reason to justify the new OCV's as both sides should be identical or pretty darn close to it. As nonamedude said as well, you could swap OCV's valves from side to side and see if the different values follow.

I did the same thing 2 years ago except the obxt I bought the engine and turbo were junk. I slapped a brand new EJ 257 in and had the heads completely gone trough by a machine shop. I assembled it with ARP headstuds and just about every bolt on part out there. With the BNR 16g the car made 290whp and 330 wtq. My car is a 5eat so I added a transgo shift kit and the car drives fantastic. Good luck with the build and keep us posted with what you find and the progress you make!

Do you have a way to see if the Right and left cam advance % is in sync? This a good way to see if you have failing OCV valves. I typically can see this type of live data using my tatrix cable and rom raider. If the right and left cam gears are not staying in sync with each other it can cause rough driving. This was the case for me and after replacing the OCV valves my car drove as smooth as butter.

When I did my valve body I just reset my ECU and drove the car in sport mode with both spirited and normal like driving conditions. I did this for a tank or 2 of gas and the Car drives great. I was experiencing a hesitation at low RPM's and thought it was related to the TCU. Come to find out it was my OCV valves....but I not until after I reset my TCU. he one time I reset the TCU I ended up getting all sorts of CELs for the TCU and ended up having to replace it (bought a unit from the junkyard) as the car drove like crap. Wouldn't downshift when it should and qas quick to upshift with occasionally super hard shifts. The used unit still sucked, ended up blowing my center diff during one of the super hard shifts. I replaced the center diff and bought a new superseeded TCU (again) and now that car is back to normal. Sorry for the long story, but I've done 3 of these valve bodies and all I do is reset the ECU and drive it in sport mode for a few tanks. Good Luck.

Where are you located?

Yes OEM for OCV unless you want to buy another set in short period of time. Or so I've heard.

No problem! Glad to help.

It's a table in open source called speed limitation if I recall correctly. Literally update the value from factory 130 (or whatever it is) to the new value you want. Reflash the map and voila, speed limitation is removed.

Well Keep us posted. I've heard sometimes the Transgo Jr kits getting installed wrong causing bad driving behavior. Lets hope its just the learning process.

The reason it took so long after 230 is the ECU runs wastegate pressure only above a set MPH/KPH unless you have tuned your ECU to disable that.

I had some weird hesitation on my 05 OBXT that turned out to be bad OCV valves. I replaced them with brand new ones from the dealer and my hesitation went away,.

if you drive it with the paddles does it downshift better and go? or does it buck and act similar to when in auto? As for driving, I like to run them in sport mode with some aggressive or spirited driving. Normal stop and go and cruising mix in.

It's so common it sucks.

What's wonky? I've done 4 of these VB's and had the cars running pretty decent within a few hundred miles.

I wouldn't risk it. Rent a car and get your engine fixed. Plan on a new shortblock and rebuilding the heads as your worse case scenario. Any shop that tears the engine down should be able to identify exactly what is broken. as others have said, you can pop the piston out of the cylinder in question to inspect the ring lands.

sorry been a while and it looks like you've done a fair amount of diagnostic work. The first thing that sticks out to me is your compression test not being within 8-10% for all 4 cylinders. Anything below 120psi is signs of a rebuild being needed. Based on that fact that you are pressurizing your block and blowing your dip stick out to me means you have really bad rings or more likely a broken ring land. Since you've stated the car has been misfiring a lot, my guess is broken ring land. This is not a valve adjustment and if it is valves, you probably dropped a valve guide and or again more likely burnt a valve. Pull the engine and start the rebuild process bud before you grenade bearings, take out your turbo or even worse cause catastrophic damage to the heads from something letting go. You can expect head rebuild and resurface to run 600-800 bucks with stock parts. I've done this plenty of times for friends to know what costs are associated as well as the work involved. Good luck!

You can floor the gas pedal while cranking the car over for the compression test. Eager to hear the results. My 2 guesses are as follows: If it's low compression most likely a ring land. If it's zero compression, burnt valve.

I would have to go back and look at the inspection sheet they print out to see what sensor were not ready and un-supported. I may have thrown them out tho.