Berge56

I found this.... I will give it another shot. Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time: 1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal. 2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes. 3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum. 4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary.

Yes I am familiar. I have a few code readers that specifically do readiness tests. I'm telling you in Mass they changed what the emissions computer was allowing or looking for. In the past Mass would allow 2 sensors not to be ready for my wrx. Well they got smart and changed it to only allow 1 not to ready.

You won't with Open Source. I have cobb and started having issues starting a few years ago. I'm not trying to turn this into a debate. I'm well aware what tuning software does what.... I am just trying to share my experience that I have had with a certain states inspection software.

Didn't matter how many miles I drove or cycles.... car would not pass in Mass. They changed something as I used to pass all the time.

Also, every state is different for what they allow for number of sensors not ready to determine if they pass you or not. Mass used to be 2 sensors allowed to not ready.... so I used to pass all time without issue. In the last 3 years.... not so much.

What software did you use Open Source? I had the cobb AP and was not able to mass inspection as the cat readiness would not ready with the P0420 turned off.

Have you done a compression test? Misfires could be something like a burnt valve or low compression.

Could be your A/C drain.... Did you recently install a Downpipe on the car?

He turned the code off. You won't get a CEL anymore, but depending on your states emissions inspection, you may not pass as all of your sensors will not show as ready.

05 OBXT 5eat Limited black on black. New EJ257 with upgrades making 290whp and 330wtq. So much fun to drive.

That would be great! I have a machine shop friend that I will ask if he can make up some brass bushings for me if you can get me rough starting specs.

Not to thread jack.... but I figured out what broke on my transmission and thought I would share. The center diff. I have the transgo jr shift kit installed since buidling the engine and making more power. after 15k of hard acceleration (it was just so much fun) 1st to 2nd shift with moderate acceleration and she finally had enough. My car makes 290 whp and 330ft lbs of tq (tuned by EFI logics). Already swapped in a used transmission from the junk yard, but should I be trying to figure out how the hell I can get my hands on a set of the diff bushings? [/img] [/img]

How many miles are on the car and what mods are done? As others have said, it sounds like you may have some mechanical issues going on. I would start with a compression test to make sure all cylinders are within 5-10% of each other.

As others have said, buy a new Sti shortblock from subaru (EJ257), have your heads machined and gone through, new headgaskets, head studs and any other associated items and you essentially will have a brand new Sti engine. I've done tis on 4 different vehicles for friends and myself and it doesn't get any easier. And the reliability factor is amazing!

That oil feed line also feeds the AVCS for the passenger side head. I would make a braided line go from the back of the block directly to the AVCS oil feed. Less chance for oil leaks.

so with the new trans....Did you do anything about the center diff bushings? Or did you just leave it stock?

I added a transmission thermostat that won't use the aux cooler unless the transmission temp gets above 180 degrees. And closes again when the temp drops below 160. Seems to be working awesome!

Awesome! Nice job! Where did you buy the new friction and steel plates? I have a donor transmission I want to rebuild as a spare and you have given me inspiration.

I just installed the mevotech alumnium control arms in my 05 obxt. For the money you can't beat them. First they are aluminum and second the bushings appears to a solid rubber which supposedly last longer and provides more stiffness and they come with new ball joints. I would definitely recommend these.

I followed the walkthrough and successfully upgraded 2 valve bodies. I am going to be doing my third in a week or two.

I've had the contacts for the lock/unlock buttons come loose inside the keyfob before. Went to the junkyard and was able to score a new keyfob for 5 bucks and used the above video to reprogram it.

I opt for opensource on the autos as more tables are defined that impact line pressure on the transmission.

Test retirement plan software during the day. Suby mechanic at night. Weekends do everything from landscaping and hardscapes, build additions/garages, electrical work, plumbing, siding, roofing etc.

Now that I know about you.... I am/will! Look forward to installing the bushings!

From what I understand it's the turbo wagons it won't fit on. I could be wrong, but there seems to be plenty of Legacy GT guys that have installed this bar. It would have fit if the sway bar mounts were a half inch further out on my OBXT. Either way, as you pointed out, my brother will benefit from it! And yes he will need a bigger rear swaybar now.