apexi

I put them in so the body of the seal is flush with the area around it. You should not have to remove the larger sundial part. I also put a little grease where the seal lip rides on the axle like he recommends at around 4:45 along with a little grease to keep the circlip centered so it doesn't catch the seal on install. Oddly enough, I repeatedly had leaks when trying to install replacement axles without that little dust shield installed at the end of the axle. I can't imagine that does anything, could it somehow put pressure on the seal? Unlikely, who knows.

Is this a non-turbo? I've come to hate aftermarket coil packs and spark plug wires for non-turbos. The OEM coil pack has a grooves in each coil where the oem plug wires can snap into. Aftermarket wires and coils don't have that, and I think the plug boots can slip off. Not so sure that is your problem, but worth mentioning. Did you install an aftermarket or oem maf sensor? If you still have your oem sensor, I'd try cleaning the resistors up inside the maf sensor, as shown in the attached picture. I think a lot of people incorrectly try to clean the temperature sensor because that's what's most visible. Have you ever had a check engine light or any trouble codes in the past?

If you have an automatic transmission, I hear aftermarket cv axles cause that problem.

I think it's possible that a Napa, has a clip that will fit. A local hardware store like an Ace or Truevalue could as well. With that said, I'd probably just order one from your local dealership, eliminate any possibilities of it being the wrong size. Green clip 64115AG06A https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Cover-Hinge-Clip-PWR-LH1-PWR-LH1-PWR-RH1-S25IP6MT36RP1/49265421/64115AG06A.html

Cracked pump housing? https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/gas-odor-does-my-filler-neck-look-ok-pics.496271/post-5810443

My filler pipe didn't have any leaks so I'm not sure if they can be patched. I can't remember why I removed both rear fender liners during the summer. I think I was fluid filming parts of my car, and I removed them for better access.

Going off memory, I thought maybe you could inspect the problem areas on the fuel filler pipe without removing the fender liner, so I checked today out of curiosity. In max's picture that I posted above , you can see the really rusty area without removing anything, but to inspect the rest, you really do have to pull back the fender liner (I know that may be obvious). I took a bunch of pictures in case they might help someone in the future. The first time I did this I removed the fender liner, which was a little annoying with the little air flap that sits in front of the wheel. This time around I removed most of the fasteners, and just pulled it back and held it back with a bungee cord, not touching the little air damn thing that sits in front of the wheel. In the last picture, the two red circles are fasteners that are kind of hidden, especially the one on the right. The first picture is what you can see without pulling back the fender liner, fuel filler neck circled in blue

I personally don't know of a way, but maybe check out freeSSM https://www.autoinstruct.com.au/blog/subaru-freessm-complete-diy-ecu-and-tcm-management/

Got a dash cam, spent way longer than I'd like to admit running the power cable

Wonder about your fuel filler neck. Noticed mine was pretty rusty in some spots earlier this year. Hit it with a bunch of fluid film to hopefully stop it from spreading. It doesn't look like it'd be super hard to replace when I was fiddling with the wheel well liner removed and stuff, but looks could be deceiving. In the thread below they said it's a pita Pic max posted in the past https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5837785&postcount=7

I have literally never used the trunk release lever lock a single time, but it bothered me that mine was frozen solid and wouldn't budge. Spent like a solid hour freeing up the lock cylinder, but finally got it. Psa, wouldn't be a bad idea to squirt some lube down in the key hole.

Cleaned up my trunk release lever assembly and cables back in 2016 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5538615&postcount=2, it started staying lifted up again. I don't remember if I cleaned the rust last time, but it was pretty crusty. Thought about painting it with some rustoleum, but just decided to douse it with fluid film instead (after wiring brushing the rust off). Kinda wish I had gotten a new assembly back when they were $13. Now they're $24, so that's why I just cleaned this one up again.

If you're bored I'd be curious to see pics from behind your front wheels sometime. Just curious to see if anything stands out as being abnormal. Since you said you don't know much about cars, I took some screenshots from this video to label some of the things that are behind the wheel. Yep, my pictures are horrible, but better than nothin

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4007478&jsn=729 8:30pm edit: It was in stock for $245 or so when I posted it, but now out of stock. Hope it was you that grabbed one. Apparently walmart also sells it too? Ships and sold by them for $300.. https://www.walmart.com/ip/AISIN-TKF-004-Engine-Timing-Belt-Kit-with-New-Water-Pump/439229402 Edit 2: Now walmart is out of stock too. I swear these are in stock when I post them haha

Cutting up a home hvac filter should work, post #10 below https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installation-cabin-air-filter-56k-warning-1626.html

I've heard about that happening to a few people, myself included. Cracked fuel plastic fuel pump housing was the culprit

Would be silly not to get a whole clutch kit when rockauto sells the exedy ksb04 for $145 and the sachs KF73802 for $132, you'd spend more than that buying the pressure plate and friction disc separately. The throw out bearing is the weak point that typically wears out before the friction disc too. New pilot bearing is $10 from subaru too, or you can pick up a slightly lesser quality one at napa for $6. But then again, I'd strongly suggest just getting a whole clutch kit.

My concern is that it would still consume oil after the "fix", but less. Also look into how much a new cat will cost. It turns out an aftermarket carb cat isn't compatible with my car due to different EFN's (Engine Family Numbers), my only option is a subie cat for $3300 when mine goes. I could roll the dice on an aftermarket carb cat for $600-$700, but I'd likely have zero warranty since it's not for my EFN, I'm not willing to take that risk since I hear aftermarket cats suck anyway. I know your cat is still under warranty until 150k, but something to keep in mind since oil consumption isn't good for converters.

Curious to hear what others say, but the sticky from the wheel/tire forum makes it sound like they should work. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/faq-offsets-sizes-rims-and-tires-gt-xenonk-version-vol-262472.html

I had a crank no start a few years ago. The dealer said it was a cracked fuel pump housing, so they replaced the whole assembly which comes with a new pump, and $100 gasket. I remember there being a gas smell in the cabin when it happened, I thought it was because I had recently filled up a gas can at the gas station, but it was from the crack. I'm still confused as to why that caused the car to crank but not start, the loss of pressure I guess? But isn't the pump submerged? Of course I had just filled up my tank, and had only driven home when the problems started. I remember the tow guy saying he didn't hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turned the key on (as SubOperator said), he tried to troubleshoot before taking my car away, which was nice of him. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cracked-fuel-pump-housings-need-recall-259756.html

Just bored curiosity, the block tester was stuck in the top of the overflow tank right?

The new condenser will come with a new desiccant bag installed in it, so you don't need that kit. I'm not sure what you mean by header?

I think condensers are 100% aluminum so a painted one is unnecessary. I think paint might actually hurt performance https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2601826&jsn=715

Rockauto's listings are a little deceptive. That's listed as a compressor that comes with a new condenser, when it doesn't. You might have better luck than me, but I couldn't get the nylon plug on my condenser to budge. I mention that since that kit says it comes with a new desiccant bag and plug. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9833404&pt=16858&jsn=7 The expansion valve you don't really need, I hear they're a pain to replace since they're in/behind the firewall or something. The denso compressor @ $237 seems like a good deal https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430733,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628 Though, a recent amazon review has me unsure about it, but you can't always trust reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Denso-471-1609-A-C-Compressor/dp/B008L07VZ8

My opinion: There's really no way for us to know what happened. Questions in my mind, did you lose all your refrigerant, or just some? Likely all, unless you just lost some when the hose was tweaked, still, hose is probably compromised. Rockauto is telling me that hose is $18, and then you can get the TYC condenser I have for $54. If the system is empty, replacing those parts should be super easy. (condenser to compressor I think is the hose you're referring to) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2005,legacy,2.5l+h4+turbocharged,1430733,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+refrigerant+hose,6900 MSRP on that hose from subie is a whopping $116.. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/AC-Refrigerant-Discharge-Hose-Hose-Pressure-DISCHAGE-Hose-PD/49282863/73424AG00A.html and a new condenser from subaru is $329. I'd be surprised if you pulled the connection apart at the condenser, I'm thinkin the hose crimp might've been compromised instead, but it's hard to say. You could buy some cheap refrigerant and put a little in the system, and see if you can see where it's leaking from. But honestly, For the price of those replacement parts, I'd probably just install a new hose and condenser myself, and then have a shop refill the system with refrigerant. Tell them what you did so they can add a couple ounces of oil too when they refill, or just add a few ounces of pag46 oil yourself into the new condenser. Just be careful if the system isn't fully empty and is still pressurized.