apexi

Remember, friends don't use friends as bear bait. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9697293/National-Park-Service-offers-hilarious-bear-safety-tips-tourists.html

I think that happened to me when images were too large in size by pixels or megabytes, I forget which.

transmission code TY757VBAAB ? Hopefully someone can confirm that's the right one. http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf (Attaching the pdf to this post as well in case the rallispec link ever goes down) Transmission ID Chart_Public.pdf

Brake booster or the hose going to it? This is kind of over my head, but that's what I'd be looking at next (smoke test?) "Also, rusted brake lines are a recall item" Subaru just sprays anti-corrosion wax on them if they're not leaking, people have had their lines fail after subaru performed the recall

That's friggin insane.. MSRP on the bearing is $250, assume a small markup, let's say $275. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2015_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Sedan/Wheel-Bearing-and-Hub-Hub-Unit-Complete-R/72771686/28473XC00A.html I don't know what subaru dealerships are charging for labor these days, $120/hr? Also not sure what book time is, random guess 2 hours? 240+275=$515ish (ish because of shop fees and that nonsense) Anyway... I'm basically just replying to say I'd contact some independent shops for a quote before paying that much.

fronts (Part #P1078S SKU #1073090) https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-disc-hardware-kit-front/duralast-brake-disc-hardware-kit-p1078s/1073090_0_0 rear (Part #P1124S SKU #1074518) https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-disc-hardware-kit-rear/duralast-brake-disc-hardware-kit-p1124s/1074518_0_0 assuming the autozone website is correct.

Just to make sure, the new pads didn't come with hardware? If your old stuff is stainless steel, which it likely is, you can clean it up and reuse it. These days I try to buy pads that include new stainless hardware (Edit: I guess what I'm trying to say with that is, unless you love the pads, I'd return/exchange them for pads that come with hardware)

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6026372&postcount=45 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5789222&postcount=27

I've also been guilty of doing this in the past, resting my foot on the clutch pedal. Thankfully I've broken that habit. "In cases where the operator keeps a foot on the clutch pedal for extended periods, an increased amount of heat is generated which can cause the grease inside the bearing to deteriorate. In a case of prolonged clutch pedal application, seizure of the bearing can occur with potential damage to other related components. " https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf

Really good report, what oil?

At a stop light, is it a vibration she feels in drive, that goes away when she puts the car in neutral? If so, I've heard this can be caused by aftermarket front cv axles. You can check to see if her cv axles up front still have green cups next to the transmission. I think the turbos are like my non-turbo, no idle air control valve. I wonder if the power being down has to do with the warmer weather, and just coincidental. (if you live somewhere where it's warming up)

About grease, check out page 3 below. Your turbo might be a little different with lube points, but it should still give you a general idea. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10179416-0001.pdf "Where applicable, the release lever (fork), shaft, pivot ball / stud, ends of the operating cylinder rod, release bearing contact points on both the release lever and pressure plate along with the input shaft splines should all be properly lubricated with the grease specified in the Service Manual (Nichimoly N-130, Conoco-Philips Multiplex Red #2 or Subaru p.n. 000041000)" I tend to think too much about stuff like this, I looked at all kinds of greases before doing my clutch a few months ago. Seems like the best choice would be a high temperature grease with a low drop point, and molybdenum fortified is a plus. I ended up just buying a little container of honda super high temp urea grease and using that. Honda specs that on all their clutch pivot points, so I figured it's good enough for my subie too. On the clutch splines I used the included packet of grease that comes with the clutch, and used an old toothbrush to work it into the splines. Exedy stresses not to use too much lube on the splines https://youtu.be/xnYe4GZMvSo?t=425 edit: Rhino's post below reminded me that I used a little bit of this where the TOB rides https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/ I've heard of other people using brake parts lube on the pivot points, splines, and where the tob rides. Honestly, it doesn't seem like it'd be a bad choice (any high temp brake lube, purple permatex ceramic too). High temperature, drop point listed as "none" in the TDS, lower timken wear number but I don't know how much that will matter.

I think I've heard that's the reason why lumber has gotten so expensive too.

This is what I've done in my car after watching his vid, bought a spill free funnel and waited until the bubbles went away https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2CQSU6/

Sounds normal to me, timing belt tensioner wouldn't only make noise at a certain rpm or rpm range (in my opinion). Could very well be heat shields too. I'd go under the car and bang on them and see if one feels lose, I had to put a screw in this one under my passenger cv axle https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6027726&postcount=4

Sorry to bump this again, but I forgot this totally reminds me of this video after they replaced the head gaskets in a porsche. They used dawn dish soap and water in the cooling system to clear everything out, seems ghetto, but.. The dude without the beard johnny is super smart, and I can't really see it doing any harm as long as you run clean water through a few times after. Still doesn't explain why you're losing coolant though.

Since no one has replied yet.. -I wouldn't do any type of head gasket additives, at least not yet. - I know you've probably looked for coolant leaks, but I wonder about some of the places that are harder to see. There's the big coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold, I wonder if it's leaking a little from one of the two large o-rings for that? Heater core hoses? I would image that if coolant and oil are mixing to create the slurry, you should be able to test your used oil for coolant or sodium. -I wonder if you see bubbles in your coolant overflow tank when the engine is running, I think that can be a sign of combustion chamber gases getting into the coolant? They also have if it detects combustion chamber gases. -You could maybe do a few flushes with some kind of cooling system flush to clean out the radiator and see if the slurry comes back, I have no experience with the stuff though. https://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AS105-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner/dp/B00B99U088/ That would also help get any gunk out of the heater core or engine. It would stink to drain out your new coolant, but I think napa still has their house brand blue coolant on sale for $15 a jug, if you used blue, I think you discussed which coolant to use in another thread but I can't remember what you went with. Either way, I wouldn't panic too much since you're using the same radiator. I'd probably take a chance and do the cooling system flush and go from there.

One of the big wigs should reply, but I'm bored, I think this might be the reason (Need 15 posts). "Notice: Due to increasing new member registrations and issues with members not following the rules in the marketplace, restrictions have been added that require new members to be registered for 30 days and to have 15 contributory posts before they can access the marketplace." In pink text from the link below https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/our-sites-general-sale-rules-all-members-please-review-195213.html?t=195213

I forgot what the pic you posted before looked like, I think this is what you're referring to (so others can see here).

A little frustrated with how amazon has changed, I used to always get things within a couple of days with prime. Now my orders are typically out like a week, at least, 9 days with something I just looked at. Change the address to CT where I used to live, I'd have it it on Wednesday. I'm only 4 hours from where I lived in CT, it shouldn't take an extra 6 days to get here, I'm not in the boonies either. Yeah, my stuff comes USPS instead of amazon's own delivery service, but still, USPS only handles the last leg of the delivery. Frustrating with how expensive prime has gotten. Edit: I'm googling this out of boredom, and I forgot something after reading someone else complain. My items don't even ship out and have a tracking number for like a week, so it's mostly processing time it seems, not the actual delivery.

http://www.circuitmotorsports-blog.com/2015/06/subaru-tgv-delete-port-and-polish.html (found this link first, but the one below is another excellent, very detailed write up by covertrussian) https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-install-tgv-deletes-263724.html

https://parts.subaruofelcajon.com/p/Subaru__Legacy/Key-Plate-BLANK--Master-SUB-MASTER/49258126/57497AG13A.html

Sorry I can't answer your question with 5th gens, but I just wanted to mention something. I stupidly assumed that when the dealer changed my timing belt the first time around that they would do all the idlers too, which they did not. I ended up going around 190k total on them before doing my timing belt myself the second time, which was a stupid gamble to run the oem idlers that long. Anyway, I'd recommend replacing the idlers too, and it seems that's not automatically included in the job by dealers, at least by my one experience.

Dang a 2010, I haven't heard of anything newer than 2007 or 2008 failing up until now, but I know that is well within the range of affected vehicles. Covertrussian has a list of brake line parts he used here https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080

Yeah I almost said this yesterday, but I figured it was obvious.. I hope the belt and all the other timing components were replaced, all the idlers and the tensioner too. You might be able to reuse the original tensioner, but after 16 years I don't think it'd hurt to replace it.