apexi

Is the hole between the driver side and middle seat headrests? I know the 2008's didn't come with the harman kardon stereo, but I wonder if maybe the late built 08's had the subwoofer cutout for the 2009 switchover?

I'm guessing the mechanic isn't used to working on subaru engines. It might look non-adjustable, but there is a small amount of play when you have the bracket installed, and the bolts loose. That's what we mean by adjustable, the bracket is able to very slightly move up and down https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/news/2016-06-subaru-spacer-tool

I was going to post the pic here for you, and I was having issues too. I think it's because your image is 3000x4000 pixels, and the max on this site is 1600x1200.

I've never done it, but these links could be helpful if you haven't seen them. It looks like the seats are solid foam, so I'm not sure if you could restuff them https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fix-your-heated-seat-106069.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-heated-sti-seats-into-lgt-reletively-painless-103465.html

I'm not anti-dealer by any means, but I think what they would do, you could do yourself for a lot less money. (multiple times/kits too) oem subaru cleaning kit, but I think anything would work to be honest, any brand, all the same stuff I'm thinking https://parts.subaru.com/p/subaru__/Climate-Control-Cleaning-Kit-1-Kit/49506092/SOA868V9315.html General video of the process I like watching his videos below, he's currently a toyota tech, and you can see clips where he basically does the same thing. He seems to deal with mice issues constantly, he also tends to clean out the windshield cowl when trying to get rid of odors too, like a complete disinfecting clean, not just vacuuming 10:52 shoot foam up into evaporator core from condensate drain hose 5:35 spray disinfectant into cowl fresh air intake (edit: make sure cabin air filter is not installed for this part)

If they did the recall where they sprayed the anti-corrosion wax on everything, it's unlikely they will do anything for you. A few people have reported getting lucky and subaru footing the whole bill, others saying subaru offered to cover just the parts (like $300 maybe, and like $2700 labor), while others saying subaru outright told them to pound sand, we're not covering anything. Your best bet would be an independent shop splicing into the lines under the rear seat, and running new lines to the rear left/right wheels. I've heard anywhere from $300-$700 for that. There's always the DIY route too of course, if you're comfortable with that. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5704424&postcount=1080 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6026372&postcount=45 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5789222&postcount=27 If the car hasn't been to the dealership for the recall, you could have a chance.. Keep us posted

"Dang, 22k?" I sometimes come here and check online car sites like autotrader looking for my old legacy, I found this today (Not my old car). 2009 Legacy GT MT with 43k, $21,998. I know the used car market is nuts, but I was still a little surprised by the price. https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/ab70bc35-4b45-40fd-96e3-a5a7c2a646f5/

Compressor clutch replacement https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/c-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough-149236.html

Yeah it's not just the tensioner rust that has me going wtf, but the rust on other timing components and belt guard as well. Is your center timing cover missing the gaskets? https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6030209/TIMING-BELT-COVER/B13-022-02.html

Hope that rusty filler neck was replaced too..

x2 for oem, which should be 30502AA121(?) https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Outback-25L-TURBO-5MT-XT/Clutch-Release-Bearing/75434842/30502AA121.html Aftermarket bearings might not have high temp grease like the updated subaru bearings https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf

I hear you on the eye protection and such. Fun fact, pb blaster to the eyes stings, bad. My finger was only partially covering the top of the can years ago, and for some reason it shot straight up out of the nozzle, instead of going forward through the straw. Not as bad as brake clean I'm sure, but no fun. I remember my rear diff drain plug was always a pita, probably would be 100x easier with a lift where you can get better access to it.

Belt deflection specs (I bought a belt deflection tool that you put on your finger years ago because I wanted to be more precise, but it seemed inaccurate and worthless) https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3173288&postcount=8 rear diff - valvoline 75w-90 synthetic in a bag (for ease of use) (walmart and other parts stores should have it too) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAL889785 front diff - red line 75w-90NS was my favorite. I used vinyl tubing attached to a funnel to fill through the dipstick hole, not sure if you can do that as easily with the turbos

other areas to check (oem ground straps will be a braided silver color) https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5931313&postcount=4

Pad clip hitting rotor? Maybe that'd make more of a squeal, but doesn't hurt to check. Found this random pic on google to visualize what I mean

My '09 had that and I was the original owner, I always assumed it was for the front left fog light. If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, that connector should have a black wire, and a white wire with a blue stripe going to it. The pic link doesn't work so I'm not sure if yours shows that. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fog-light-connectorsi-227858.html

Bump

I have some leftover 75w-90ns that's around 5 years old, it's amber. Not sure about other varities

Basically I think my tpms tool was telling me the batteries in the sensors were good, when they were not. Around 2017 my oem wheels with oem sensors started to give me the tpms light when my pressures were all fine. When I checked with my tpms tool, it claimed all the batteries were good, and that it could read info from the sensors, as shown in the attached example image I stole from a tacoma forum. After like 9 years and 220k, I knew my car wasn't lying. So I blindly bought some cheap sensors on rockauto clearance, had them installed next year when I had the tires replaced, and the new sensors fixed my issue. A couple years later, the same thing started to happen with my winter wheels/tires which had aftermarket sensors that were about 7 years old. Same story, tpms tool says all the batteries are "OK" and it can talk to the sensors. I do vaguely recall that both times, one or two of the tire pressures displayed in the tool was off a bit, indicating to me that there might be an issue with the sensors. I'm horrible at explaining things, sorry if it's still not clear.

I can't offer much help, but it wouldn't surprise me if 1 or more sensors is dead. When the sensors in both my winter wheels and oem wheels went bad, the batteries still showed up as "good" or "ok" when I checked them with an autel tpms tool. New sensors in my oem wheels fixed the problem for me. Never got around to dismounting and installing new sensors in my winter wheels. Edit: I'm not aware of any button to reset the tpms light.

I have no idea what year it is and whatnot, so the attached link is for a 2006 LGT sedan. I guess I'm confused as to where the wire broke. Doing that work, I'd imagine it's in a place where you can just get a new speed sensor, since the new sensor will come with like 2 feet of wiring. Can't you just replace the left front wheel speed sensor and wire as one unit? That's what I'd do, I think the problem is with the wire repair, new sensor and wire should fix your issues imo. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/ABS-Wheel-Speed-Sensor-Left--Front-ABS-Wheel-Speed-Sensor/49501574/27540AG01B.html aftermarket https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=27540AG01B

These cars absolutely do consume oil, my 2009 legacy has burned oil since I drove it off the lot with 3 miles. At 3k I checked the oil for the first time, and It was either at, or just below the low mark. It has continued to consume oil up to where I'm at now, 260k. The consumption is worst with highway driving, hot weather, and when the oil gets more miles on it, and shears down to a lower viscosity. It is very well documented by many people here that our cars use oil, even the owners manual makes it sound like up to 1qt every 1200mi is acceptable

Dealership is probably right, these cars consume oil like max said, especially with highway driving from my experience. Engine is likely toast.

All the idlers spin very smoothly. The only thing I ended up using from the gates kit was the belt I believe, everything else is oem.

Thanks for 5.5 years and 65k gates Most recent review for the T307 belt on amazon says theirs broke too https://www.amazon.com/Gates-T307-Timing-Belt/dp/B000C2WM02 Got my kit in early 2016 when they started to cheap out on the idlers and tensioner, wonder if they cheaped out on the belt too. Was my first time ever doing a t-belt job when I put this in 5 years ago, but you'd think it would've failed sooner if I messed somethin up.