apexi

I don't think there's any connection between your blower motor and the ac clutch, but the link below has more info on rebuilding the ac clutch https://www.legacygt.com/topic/73566-ac-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough/ Someone on page 3 mentioned the kit below, but I don't know how it worked out for him https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG9Z03S

Yeah I got lucky and my filler neck never developed a leak, but it was pretty rusty and crusty in some spots. I wish I had hit it with fluid film sooner https://www.legacygt.com/topic/136064-p0457-small-evap-leak/#comment-2781907

Yep, that's the one. Be aware of this if you're still in the NYC area, or anywhere that gets snow in the winter. Parts of the hard metal brake lines under the car can rust out. A fix through subaru is like $3,000. A (better) fix through an independent shop is like $300-$700. one example fix https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V311-4153.pdf

Honestly I wouldn't be worried at all (and I'm a worry wort). It looks like you need to get a new airbox half to get that clip, and msrp for that is $53. I think you might be missing another clip though, which would do a better job of keeping that power steering hose off of what I think is an oil control valve. Unfortunately it doesn't look like you can purchase this clip separately from subaru, but maybe you could hook a ziptie around each hose, and then use a 3rd smaller one to join the two together? I might look around a bit more later for a more proper solution, something closer to OEM. (that clip could just be out of frame in your pic too?)

I believe an old member named MrTris is the one who coined ynansb. He wrote a super helpful post on what to expect when faced with this decision, about his experience going through the rebuild process. I tried to find it, but I think he got mad and deleted it. Anyway, I found this quote from him, and it's how I feel. I'd take the hit, and move on to something else. (edit: I have no idea how much money you're willing to spend and all that and if you have a family on the way like he says, but expect to spend a lot of money to do the job right. and even then... things could go bad again.)

for removing panels and such http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2009/2009 Service Manual.pdf looks like the blower fan relay is on the bottom of the blower (image from the link below) https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2009_Impreza-25L-SS-4WD-Wagon/_52016_6023756/ELECTRICAL-PARTS-BODY-RELAY/G12-835-02.html If I'm reading the subaru parts diagram right, relay #1 and relay #4 are the same part number? So you could swap the blower relay with one labeled #1? Not sure why they have different #'s then..

It looks like the temperature and fan speed are controlled by a metal cable that attached to the back of the dials. I don't think it's that, but I could be wrong. My money would be on the blower motor resistor, but I'd also double check the fuse numbers in the attached image, I'm not sure if these are the ones you checked already. (Apologies for the full size images by the way.. I don't see an option to just attach thumbnails here like I can on some other forums)

I'd do one at a time. I thought your impreza would take the same resistor as my old legacy, but it doesn't. The resistor yours takes is a little more expensive. Local auto parts stores might have them too of course, but here's a few options below for the resistor. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2009_Impreza-25L-SS-4WD-Wagon/HVAC-Blower-Motor-Resistor/49281084/72226FG001.html https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=72226FG001 There's no testing specs for the auto ac model listed, but here's some specs for the manual ac resistor

I had a cracked fuel pump housing too resulting in fumes in the cabin. I'd replace the whole fuel pump housing. edit: I forgot to mention I don't know what you mean by hanger, sorry if I repeated what you already planned to do.

Would be dumb and an unnecessary risk to do a compression test right now imo, I'd wait until after you replace the timing belt cover and get any broken bits out from behind the cover. I know it's plastic, and there are unlikely to be any broken pieces under the belt teeth, but still. With how important the belt is, why risk damaging it. Edit: I'm dumb. Jeremie is ahead of me. If you remove the side cover and remove any broken pieces, I think you'd be fine. "Ok, so I CAN do the compression test with the cover damaged how it is - just need to remove the cover and take off any of the broken pieces first? "

Yeah definitely do the cabin air filter yourself, I used to do them once a year in my old '09 legacy. The process shown in the video below is what you'll have to do. It's not hard, the little plastic screws are kind of annoying to remove though. I used to just push them back in after and it didn't harm them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpWmETNDj5E

I can't find vacation pix anymore, so I tried to go to m spranks profile since I think he posted the link.. When I try to view anyone's profile, I get this. Edit: It also does this when I search

This link could be helpful, and at the very bottom is a picture of the "Blue T" that I remember hearing the turbo guys talk about being a common place for a line to blow off of. A member here named "turkeylord" used to sell upgraded T's https://www.legacygt.com/topic/103452-subaru-quotblue-teequot-replacement/ and how company23 sells them instead https://www.company23.com/VacuumT Might also be a good idea to have a shop do a smoke test, ngl I'm too lazy to go back and read if you had one done already

Also, did you clean the resistors up in the maf sensor? I think sometimes people clean the red air temp sensor instead https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwGICKqWgM4

Yeah just to elaborate a little.. If one of these cars is sold with a recently replaced turbo, that means the old one could have blown up and sent metal into the lubrication system, where it can go into the oil cooler and such if that's not replaced as well.

Clogged or too restrictive cabin air filter? Dying blower motor?

From what I remember with my '09 legacy, twist it 90 degrees and pull it out Edit: Looked up a picture of it for reference. Looks like there are 3 prongs holding it in. So I'd rotate it to 3 o'clock, try pulling, 6 o'clock try pulling, and so on. https://www.ebay.com/p/1911323200

One of the moderators https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/site-moderators-183644.html

Is the tread depth of all four tires within 3mm or so of each other? I'm thinking the tread depth difference between the fronts and rears is too much, which is why the problem goes away when the FWD fuse is installed.

That's kinda how I feel to be honest, I think y'all are overreacting, but.. Just seems like cosmetic damage to me on a part no one will see

Is the tread depth of all four tires within 3mm or so of each other? When my center diff was bad, I noticed the clicking when turning at low speeds was worse on hot days, or after I had been driving for awhile and the transmission was warm.

Honestly I'd just go back to the shop and tell them exactly what happened like you wrote here. I was doin a diy brake job and it fell out after you removed the rear rotor, did a tech leave it behind by accident after doing the wheel bearing? and what the heck is it?

Friggin weird, no idea. Adding a pic here in case someone can't view drive link, even though it works fine for me.

Congrats, I miss my non-turbo leggy. I'd inspect and keep an eye on the brake lines in the rear https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V311-4153.pdf

I'd try cleaning the maf sensor. Make sure you clean the resistors inside the sensor, and not the reddish air temp sensor that is most visible. He starts talking about it at about 9:55