apexi

With only 47k and 1 year past the warranty mark I would definitely contact SOA. They might not cover the whole repair, but I would hope they'd help out some.

The factory service manual just calls it a pressure switch, or triple pressure switch. I tried to find it at parts.subaru.com, but I think subaru makes you buy the whole pipe to get that sensor. I believe your mechanic knows of a place where he can just get the switch, without having to buy the whole pipe like subaru makes you do. I wish I knew what brand or something, I tried googling various words with 1618 and didn't get anything. Edit: Maybe it's this switch, Santech MT1618 https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-switch/p/santech-a-c-switch-mt1618/121102_481672_8905 http://www.santech.com/downloads/flyers/LIT-0242_Santech_2012_New_MT_Products.pdf Other options when you cross reference the oem honda part number in the third image https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=80450-SFE-003

I've heard #7 / the blue T seems to be a common leak point https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/intake-vacuum-leaks-and-you-pics-inside-235626.html

What subaru sensor part numbers? Could check for powers and grounds at the module.

For showing which relay is which? https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-5MT-4WD-Sedan/_52016_6023697/ELECTRICAL-PARTS-BODY-FUSE-BOX-07MY-/B13-835-04.html

Yeah I just did some googling, I bet the dealer will tell you this "The letters ER IU are there. When i had the car in for service they told me that it needed a new BIU (body computer) for about $840. They said that it was diagnosed w/ code B0100 (short detected in BIU Unit)." https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/biu-error-codes-after-battery-was-replaced.33857/ Battery cables look okay, clean and tight on the terminals? Grounds under the car look okay? I think there's also a transmission ground going from the firewall to the transmission? There is on MT's, not sure about AT's. grounds https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4454860&postcount=21

Somethin else to think about, since this gave me a scare recently.. After 255k I got a check engine light, p0420. With that, it's usually either the catalytic converter, or rear o2 sensor that monitors the cat. Thankfully for me, it was the rear o2 which is fairly cheap, $55 or so online. That prompted me to think, what if it were the cat. When I looked a few years ago, cat prices weren't bad, and there were aftermarket options, so I wasn't too concerned. Things have changed.. Currently $3300 for an oem subaru cat for my car, pzev california emissions. When looking at aftermarket options, I noticed that they mentioned engine family numbers, like this.. "WALKER 84389 C.A.R.B. Compliant Info Front; Engine Family Number (EFN) 9FJXJ02.5MXG" My engine family number didn't match that at the end (my car 5NVD). So I contacted a couple aftermarket cat companies. Walker said they don't make one for my car. I have a feeling Bosal/BRE will say the same. So if my cat goes, I'm basically SOL. I attached a pic of the label under my hood where it shows emission info. It would really suck if you go deeper into this, and your cat goes, unless your car has different emissions from mine. I thought about the possibility of getting a carb cat, but I bet I wouldn't have any warranty with the different EFN, and I've heard aftermarket cats are crap. Not smart to take a risk on one without a warranty

Drove it.. p0420 after 12 years and 255k. Hoping it's the original rear o2 sensor. Cat is around 7 years old and has 120k on it, and my car does consume oil.. Ordered a rear o2 sensor to blindly replace that first, fingers crossed..

With our cars it's usually just oil leaking externally that creates a mess when the head gaskets go bad, so you can drive on it for awhile, I wouldn't be worried about driving like that for awhile.

I would just try to keep your foot off the clutch pedal for a prolonged amount of time, and don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal either (like I used to sometimes do, bad habit). "In cases where the operator keeps a foot on the clutch pedal for extended periods, an increased amount of heat is generated which can cause the grease inside the bearing to deteriorate. In a case of prolonged clutch pedal application, seizure of the bearing can occur with potential damage to other related components. " https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10150949-9999.pdf Edit: I don't think subaru has an updated bearing for the turbos oddly enough, but the info in the TSB still applies.

Kind of reminds me of my car a little. On my car, I can't tell if it's the head gaskets or the oil pan leaking. From what I've learned here, it seems like it's inevitable that the head gaskets on our non-turbos will go bad, the graphite coating eventually wears away, and oil seeps out from the return passages. Our non-turbos don't have an oil cooler between the oil filter and the engine block, the oil filters just screw right onto the engine block. Fram oil filters get a bad rap, but they're actually not that bad. It also looks like your valve cover gasket could be leaking. Fel-Pro makes a kit which includes the valve cover gasket, and everything else that gets replaced during a head gasket job, except new head bolts, if you choose to replace those. Replacing the valve cover gaskets with the engine sitting as is, is a real pain. In your first image, the back valve cover bolt is damn near impossible to remove without lifting up the engine a little, it hits the subframe if you don't. External oil leaks like that aren't a huge concern in my opinion, but I think it might be what caused my clutch to start slipping 15k-20k after it was replaced 3 years ago. I'm curious to know if you have engine oil coming back and hitting the transmission drain plug like I do. I can't find the pic I took a few years ago, so I stole one from this thread and attached it below. (Just to show you where the transmission drain plug is) A couple other things about our cars.. -Check your engine oil often until you get a feel for how much oil it consumes. Consumption may be higher with hot weather, highway driving, and as your oil gets more miles on it (2k+ my consumption increases) There was a recall to put an anti-corrosion wax on parts of our hard metal brake lines. They can still fail, especially where the hard metal line clips to the body, and the wax can't really fully protect the line (in my opinion). This is if you live in a place that gets snow and stuff, if you're in cali or something I wouldn't worry. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V311-4153.pdf (Page 7)

You sure it's not just cracked solder joints? Common problem that causes the airbag light https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4278790&postcount=60

grounds (not saying this is the issue, but to make your search easier) https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5931313&postcount=4 There's also a backup ground going from the transmission to the center of the firewall

A few years ago I remember multiple members had heard that techs found a faster way to do it without removing the whole dash. They somehow do it by pulling the center cubby, and going through the glovebox area too.

I would like to help, but I have no idea what you're talking about since my non-turbo doesn't have that. Is it what I've attached a picture of? https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Stay-EARTH/49223519/11086AA030.html

(This assumes your turbos are like my non-turbo) You can't pull up on the clutch fork to remove it. There are retaining clips holding the fork to the throw out bearing, and the throw out bearing is held securely in place by the transmission input shaft. You basically have to find a way to pop the fork over the ball if it's just riding on top of the clutch fork pivot ball. Wonder if you can pull back hard on the top of the fork, where the slave cylinder pin goes? Pry bar down the hole, with leverage against something high up? Attached a pic to show how the fork pops over the ball, two metal wires https://youtu.be/xnYe4GZMvSo?t=403

Unfortunately I can't answer some of your questions, but I just want to post a few additional thoughts. I don't blame you for being over it with all the work you did, and it still having issues. I don't think it was anything you did that caused these problems, I think there was probably some sort of underlying condition (the misfire issue which wouldn't go away) that may have contributed to the current knock in some way. Is the engine oil level okay? These cars drink oil, especially with hot weather. In your shoes, I'd also spend an extra $80 on a new radiator in case that's gunked up as mentioned earlier. AT rads are fine, I have one in my car https://www.amazon.com/Denso-221-3604-Radiator/dp/B004J316YI

I missed something that boxkita mention, that is incredibly sketchy.. Why not use this current setup instead of some used ej255? "Buyer buys me a used stock ej255 with all components (minus turbo) and pays for labor (got quoted for 1K for labor). I am willing to pay for the tow to the shop."

I sometimes watch Demolition Ranch and Offtheranch on youtube when I'm bored. This video from his/matt's dad came up in my feed, and I liked hearing his thoughts.

I'm thinkin that there is just gunk in your cooling system, radiator might be plugged up, coolant can't flow through the system properly and the coolant is just sitting in the engine baking/boiling. Just don't let things get too hot and warp your heads/block or somethin, would really suck after all that work you did. Keep us posted

Don't forget to inspect the the places where the line is clipped to the body, there's a couple of them next to the tank. It's kind of hard to truly inspect them with the clip in the way, but you can get a general idea https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCMN-14V311-4153.pdf

How did it feel when they went out, I mean, how much braking power would you say you had? I hear you don't completely lose braking when it happens.

Have you tried cleaning the maf sensor hot wires/resistors that are kind of buried in the sensor?

It was their silicone lubricant, so hopefully it lasts more than a few weeks https://www.wd40.com/products/silicone-lubricant/

Fixed my creaky sun visor. Something like 5-6 years ago I replaced it because it broke, and I think I paid like $90 or $100 for a new one from subaru. It has been getting really creaky, and it feels like it doesn't move as easily. So I removed it from the car, and used a pick to pull back the fabric where the arm goes into the visor body. Really can't see anything when you do that, but I decided to spray a couple quick shots of wd-40 silicone spray down there. To my surprise, it actually worked. Silky smooth and no creaks when I flip the visor up and down. Question is how long will it last, we'll see.