GEE-OTTO

If you were closer to VA if snatch these up. If you don’t sell I’d throw $150 on top to ship. Glws!!

Your setup sounds really good for a 253 with a UEL. My trick to cut the rasp was to use a Borla XR-1 as a resonator and two Vibrant mufflers the HKS is not enough on N/A. The GT and 2.5i have the same Y Pipe so that’s as good as it gets as far as stock rasp reduction on a 2.5i.

Given the scarcity of quality LGT CBEs I went ahead and fabbed up a axel back using a custom 2.25” Y and DynoMax Super Turbo mufflers. My OEM were rusted out and all the salvage ones were just as bad, I kept the stock resonator and I really enjoy the sound. Little drone at low speeds in high gear, nothing at cruising speeds. It will do until I find a Borla

If you flush the engine and the oil cooler there is no way to tell how long it will run and when it may die. Best game plan if you want to keep the car is a new short block and have your heads cleaned up. The bolts caught the junk but you need to find out where the junk is coming from. Did your turbo have a lot of shaft play? Oil pan have lots of debris? while i dont have any engine trouble I am well into the 200k miles club and i too think about should I rebuild or not when the time comes

First thing is to find the pin-out of the MR2/whatever it was used in/came out of and compare the I/O to the LGT one. That way you have an idea of what, if anything is common. I wouldnt expect much but If you have the donor and the harness(es) at least you could see the various I/O and if its worth the time. Could be fun or a nightmare. I remember there was a member that swapped in a buick engine to a 05-06 LGT it came out nice. As far as the transmission if this is coming out of FWD car you will need to use all of your fab prowess to mate the Subaru 5MT OR find a MT with a non-integrated bell housing and fab that up as long as the spline count matches.

Hondas easily gap Legacys Don't excited about this car until you are sure it is mechanically sound. You are easily sitting on $6k of repairs for just a all stock LGT much less a modded one that needs those upgraded parts replaced. However $6k is less than a new car but even if you replaced all the stuffs (mechanically) there are lots of other things that may start to fail. Point being take it slow make sure its not a grenade and do as much work as you cone when items need replacing to reduce the cost of ownership:)

Nice hitting the 300k club! Mine is currently nearing a clutch and timing belt replacement given the price for both (parts and labor) I am contemplating just pulling the engine to replace the SB and getting the heads checked and refreshed. When you got your heads done did you replace all the springs, retainers and related hardware?

07+ EJ255 had a catless UP stock so that might be a replacement UP due to some other damage, they are no different than a Ej257 UP from 07, sounds good on paper to include STi when possible. The previous owner deleted the Secondary air pump that wire behind the head and the thick wire at the front of the driver side head are for the pump and solenoid that were removed. If you do not have a COBB AP or that car did not come with one the previous owner has used ECUFlash and Romraider + a Tactrix 2.0 cable to disable the related codes for solenoid stuck open, closed and voltages. If they did not and got a custom COBB AP tune to accomplish this, you have other issues. Make sure you leave the last part of that system intact as it houses the barometric pressure sensor (stupid Subaru) that is used by the ECU. it is located under the turbo inlet area. Also check to make sure they blocked off the ports the systems used on teh back or each head. The turbo inlet is updated with some brand silicone inlet, it is for the better The lights are on b/c you've flipped the switch on top of the steering column, look behind the wheel there is a toggle switch, when ON it shows a red rectangle when off a P (i think) They probably should have had told you all this prior to selling you the car, purely so you know what you are working with, when making changes or diagnosing problems.

First try the various relays/fuses in the car and in the engine bay then try driver side window switch bank, it functions as a breaker of sorts for the other 3 doors. If the passenger/other doors were working fine and now are not they all have not failed at once. If you dont want to buy a new switch you can test voltage btwn the switch and window motor and body harness to switch.

Have you changed your spark plugs, AFR and/or O2 sensor(s), cleaned you air filter, cleaned for MAF sensor? Could the drop in MPG be due to you goosing it around with your new found sound? Are you referring to MAP as in Manifold Absolute Pressure or something else?

Not a sensor issue Denso is solid and Ive never had an issue with them N/A or Turbo Legacy. You said you had the HG done, are you sure they were done correctly and arent still weeping coolant/oil internally ?

With the Borla and that desired turbo whiz/spool youll hear it and you won't be noticed while grocery shopping but youll hear it while passing:) The OTS Stage 2 will work until you go EBCS but with theri recent changes pertaining to emissions and parameters you might want to consult a tuner just to help you avoid any check engines lights and their OTS tunes are better they arent great.

Do you like your OBXT enough to rebuild it? If so, rebuild it right and youll be happy for 200k more miles. On an engine that old, a turbo h4 at that, i bet if you split the case, it would instantly be be out of tolerance, when you bolted it back together for assembly. If you have $4-$5k and are thinking of parting it out you could consider the revised amount, that much more towards a newer car, a newer Subaru. No wrong option except half-assing the rebuild, then youll have a problem car with more money tied up than its worth, at least if you do it the right way youll have more money tied up than it worth BUT it's fun to drive Also dont hack it back together and dump it off on some buyer that might be thinking they got a deal on a OBXT Do the right thing.

I would install the turbo and manifold first, b/c while I dont doubt your turbo building prowess, if it goes due to some odd reason, it could mean more $$$$. Run the new turbo until you confirm its a keeper and since you have that DP youll need a tune anyway. That's a lot of changes to make prior to having a known good working baseline, purely to help you track down issues. Borla is a nice choice for CBE that i what I bought recently after a bit of trial and error.

I wonder how OpenSource tuning will react to the COBB empire change of heart?

I hope the LGT is still intact! Bump

RRP LGT with those wheels must have looked great bump

I just left my solenoid in place while I deleted the rest. As long as it’s plugged in you’re good to go

I replaced mine @ 182K miles when I got tuned.

How often do you change/check the oil level? What oil do you use? If the OCV solenoid is bad/failing its not a tough repair, more messy than anything. Check the harness for both OCVs on the engine, on the FB25 they are easy to get to. I would start by changing the oil and using a good quality synthetic oil and keep an eye on the issue. Remember you need to keep the oil topped off and changed on a FB engine period, the low oil light isnt really helpful, its more of a "well you are all out of detectable oil about 5 miles ago" light

Kudos to you sir. The tub job cleans up the front! you must enjoy the challenge of all this which most folks would never attempt. If you merged harness, per your earlier post did that harness have a connection to the ABS?

You are getting P0500 vs P0501/2/3/4 so that is better than the SS ERR or whatever as that is a CAN related issue (bad controller area network issue). Ive used Timken/Duralast/SFK on all three of my Legacys no problem. Duralast were the most expensive, Timken the cheapest, never a problem. If you are seeing P0500 try new speed senor(s) with the new bearings, if you damage the sensor its junk. Next what axles did you use? Do they seat into the hub fully? Is the hub seated all the way into the knuckle? If the sensor is being damaged the part isn't to spec or the senor is wrong. Also be careful not to over torque the sensor and crack it, upon re-installation. When i encountered the P0500 it was due to a damaged sensor.

Alright so I went out this morning to start tracing down potential faults and steps leading up to this all stopping. What tipped me off was the puddle light was illuminating when the door was open!! No blown fuses, two switches that function the same. Then I remembered that I rerouted my AP cable up past the fuse block the day this started. Opened up the panel and pressed on all the connections in there and the one where the door harness feeds into the body and i saw the puddle light come. Everything works now I must have pulled on something or tweaked something during the routing that slightly unseated a connection.

Is this a sign of a bad window motor? I say that bc that is a new switch and the other three doors will lock and unlock using the master switch but no windows will roll down. I doubt all four window motors failed at once, so does the master switch act as a “fuse” or controller to the other three? The original switch and the new switch make the same sound, so that is why I am ruling out the switch, but I noticed that driver door won’t lock/unlock like the other three. Thanks

Start searching for the year range you want first, then narrow that down by condition you desire. Parts for a EJ25D or EJ22E aren't rare but they are old. If you can find a mechanically sound variant of the Legacy you seek i would start there, for the body issues you may be confined to the salvage yards. Do you want the older Legacys based on budget constraints or you just like them more? I personally want a BE legacy 5MT black or green, all the ones i find have weeping headgaskets or rusted up pretty good.