GEE-OTTO

Sold! You can close.

Bump for comparisons with my other DP!

For sale is a dented DP I bought a few weeks back. I added some side-by-side pics of my new GS downpipe to give a better idea of the condition. I think the bend is at the flange the rest is actually the same as the new one I bought, I just don't have the ability to fix it. It has some surface rust from being wrapped but the flanges are flat and the cat substrate is clean! SOLD

Anyone have a good condition catted DP they want to sell?

Is the car timed correctly ?

Last weekend i got a P0458 CEL and given the car has 195K miles on it, I went and bought a new Evap Purge Solenoid ($34 from local Subaru Dealer). Its pretty easy to replace as it is right on top up front of the IM. Well the real problem is a rodent chewed the wires, ALL the wires in that area (Boost Control and Evap Purge) so I need to cut out the chewed sections and replace. Now to preface this, I haven't driven my car in the 3 weeks leading up to figuring this out, so ill prob use this to replace the brittle rubber hoses which are going to crack when i try to remove the affect solenoids. My question is, what is the best splice method for the new wires? leaning toward twist and sweat sleeve but I am also able to solder. Thanks

Nice Thread and parts stash!

Is it too much to hope that SOA doesn't make a blanket stitching decision? Red stitching no matter the choice was a huge let down Screw the max HP game or high HP, I really hope they refine obscure aspects, while remaining in the current price range. I think the new chassis will cover most, but it would be nice to sit in a STi and it not feel "hollow".

That's an unfortunate downshift on a 5MT.

After 194K miles I installed new coils and after at least 34K miles I installed new NGK plugs. While at it,wanted to address the boot in the TMIC to TB coupler. That went well except I knocked off a vacuum line in the process. Car ran like crap, took it to Mach V, it was easily fixed. Last things left are to install the grille and rear H&R + KYB combo on 3/4" spacers

The suspension isnt Subaru specific they probably have issue with installing used suspension on the car. Find a shop that will install your parts first (for the suspension) have them install the struts/shocks and do an alignment. The VF52 isn't so simple, you at a min want a base tune ready to flash to get you to the tuners shop or to drive to log to allow the eTuner to tune. Mechanically you could install it but no shop is going to install that turbo for you, to go out and over-boost and damage stuff. You got the turbo is it new or used or unknown? Next do you have a COBB AccessPort or Opensource Tuning client? If not, get familiar with that first. IF you have all that you might have to expand your search for a shop or weigh DIY. Def do not install that 52 and drive around on the stock tune (for long or in boost )

I read that book in 7th grade and that is great vehicle life! I am almost at 200K miles on my 08 LGT. The engine in my 08 2.5i let got at 191K miles so this is the oldest Legacy ive owned. I noticed the trans in myu 2.5i was way noisy starting around 130K miles in my LGT I run Motul Gear 300 very quiet

What happened to the engine? Failed Turbo, Knock, Oil starvation? I am asking b/c most folks on here will prob want to know who replaced it and what was replaced. could help out with the sale. Clean Nice B.

Similar to you I get the same at low load operation and shifting from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and in parking lots putting around. From my readings on RomRaider and other tuning forums/sites (Subaru specific), esp if you are like me and "high mileage" feedback knock in those scenarios is not too concerning. I will have less than 20 events in some cases and 34 events in other cases the worst is when I'm on and off the clutch a lot in tight spaces or crammed in city traffic. I expect this as I have 194K on the original engine and most/all the related sensors. Do you have a LWFW? Are you on the stock clutch or stock profile clutch disc? Any stiffer bushings? Short throw? Any metal on metal touching? I ask this b/c the feedback microphone is known to pick up false knocks as a result of the above. On my 09 LGT (still miss that LGT) I had a failing harmonic balancer giving me knock fits when the shop went to replace it they found the alternator had a lot of forward/aft play which could also result in what the senor hears as knock.

This happened to me recently on my 08 LGT Sedan. I replaced both rear hubs and the noise was still there but much lower in tone, I was so pissed b/c I thought I screwed up something. Before tearing it back apart I took it to a service station and had them run the car while on the lift. Listened to the center diff, tail shaft, rear end and all was normal. I ended up replacing the fronts over the weekend and silence no more humming mine started in around 55MPH and again at 70MPH and when cornering, which is what gave it away. All parts had 194K miles on them, I only use Motul Gear 300 in the drive line so I never suspected the diffs or the gear box but I was sure it was the driveshaft.

The parts are so sexy. The custom JDM Double DIN is a nice touch. I always wonder what happens to SEMA builds i guess they end up being sold like any other car. GLWS

Saw this on AT! Nice and clean in that region they are hard to find in this shape. GLWS

The FA24DIT is stout and on a VERY conservative tune in the Ascent platform. The EJ was a nice leap in engine performance (over the EA) and R&D opportunities for 30 years. I think the engineering team will come with a tuned version of the 24DIT Kinda like Honda did with the Accord 2.0T and Type-R engines. Ponder this, what if they secretly have been R&D-ing a FB25 DIT:eek:

To the above point, I got this same link and I spent 6 hours going down the rabbit hole and I couldn't be more enlightened. Really breaks down the basics and assumes you know enough to string the foundational information into a viable tune for your car. Its not going to tell you what values to input in each cell i.e. it isn't a how to tune your Subaru table by table. However if you want that information its all on the RR site.

I flashed back to Stage1 91 OCT and filled up with 93 OCT Shell. Went for a 50 mile drive and took the attached log along the way. Ill let the tuner do the rest I went back to stage 1 b/c currently I am running a Shorty DP mated to a stock cat section FYI. 08LGT_Log6.csv

Coil packs could be 194K miles old :eek:or younger. I bought this LGT with 160K in the clock during the past 34K miles I've never ran into a misfire code or had poor fuel mileage (not that, that is an accurate indication) and most of my logs show 0 for FKLC. I'll reset the ECU when I replace the plugs this weekend and monitor AF Learning. I also just filled up on Shell 93OCT (what I always run) and have a 130 mile drive on Sunday so If i see it learn to pull timing btwn 3K-4K RPM I think ill be happy with letting the tuner smooth that out. I think the smart move is to get my tune as the car is now then install my DP and 52 along with a WBO2 (the only part I am missing at this point).

Why do you want the rear O2 disabled? Are you trying to disable the P0420 code?

Also I grabbed two more logs which give two different pictures. On one hand the ECU learned knock in the ~3000-4000 RPM range so it pulls and adds it back but on another pull in the same range there was none. Thinking through the culprit the plugs have about 32K miles on them and I've never gotten a misfire MIL, would it be logical to replace the plugs and log again? 08LGT_Log3.csv 08LGT_Log4.csv

There are a few LC1s available locally that I have been keeping my eye on. Thanks for you suggestions, I think I may put the WBO2 in the cubby as well or in the glove box where the manual goes.

Really appreciate the glance over and the info in the links. It really simplifies the whole process.