MoleMan

If it were me I would probably go for the XT. The sport is the same car with exception of interior and certain exterior cues. The question is what the dealer wants to get rid of on the lot. Honestly I don't see that many 6th or 7th gen Sports around. And that sorta car is my eye as they are different. If you want cloth and no seat memory then the sport is for you. Now if only we can get a 6 speed manual.....

Depends. The short answer is yes. But you would get max power with a full exhaust system with test pipes. You would make slightly less power with high flow cats but if you have state emissions the high flow is better to go with. To your question yes I would get a better tune since the power band would be changing. I would also get Bunghole extenders to get the 02 sensor out of the downstream so it does not throw a code. When I went to long tube headers in conjunction with my Stillen exhaust set up on my G37 I believe the power gain was about 30 HP at the flywheel. A test pipe setup from what my tuner told me would have gained an additional 15 or so HP. In the end I sent my car to Stillen and just had them do the Supercharger Conversion kit and am not running a shy over 450 HP and 440 Torque. Fun car but my RCF with the five liter is way funnier with the NA five liter with 470 HP. A true sleeper. I am assuming you have a GT?

Let's just say the car was to good to pass up at the time. Bought it in 2012 with 62,000 miles from a Subaru Dealer. It was priced right under 7 grand. No accidents etc.. Honestly my Subarus colors are odd. One Gen 4 ABP 2.5i Leggy, one Gen 4 3.0R is HWM, and the 2018 3.6R in DBP. While all my other cars are silver or white.

A Gen 3 Leggy Outback Sedan rare? I see at least two a day in my area. Along with probably ten Gen 3 Outbacks a day as well. Just depends on where you live I guess. As far as your friend. The car is a 2010. We do not know how your friend drives the vehicle at all. All the records are in place as stated. But the time to push SOA was at the time of repair. So it's a longshot on if SOA will do anything at all unless it's very recent. I would only really question the block replacement. I am not being an asshat about how someone drives. I just have seen friends buy brand new cars and drive over every pothole and floor it all day to redline etc.. then they get upset at the dealer when they need this or that. My wife is a great example of this. Exactly why I tell her to drive her SUV and not her S4. Then she gets mad at me when I don't want her driving according to her "my Subarus that sit and never get driven" Good luck to you.

My 08 Harvest Wheat Metallic 3.0R is a love hate relationship. It's been referred to baby puke gold. Not the best color I will admit.

I bet the bar will fit. Since both cars are on the "world" platform the chassis should be the same. It's not like trying to go from a Gen 4 to a gen 5 fitment. Many Nissan aftermarket parts say it won't fit this year or that year yet the fitment is perfect. As far as Whiteline aka"Red Rover" I find a lot of their bars fairly subpar compared to Cusco, Hotchkis, or even Perrin parts to a degree. Not saying they don't work and are not good as I have Whiteline parts on many of my cars. I just prefer the feel and look of other products. As you said it's worth a try. I would buy local if possible. Those bars are about 20 lbs and shipping is awkward.

And they will never have one for the 7th gen Leggy. Whiteline has gone the way of Cobb and Perrin. Really only interested in Turbo Hot Hatches. You could call Yoshi at Cusco and see what they have. I doubt Cusco will have much besides a possible strut tower brace. You could call Hotchkis and see as well but that's a longshot. If Whiteline makes a rear bar for the 7th gen Outback I can almost bet money that it will fit on the Leggy. It's the same platform. I had doubts with that theory until I bought my G37 and found out most parts and aftermarket parts from the 370Z will fit without issues.

Just keep it! I have several vehicles including three Legacy's. One of the other vehicles is a 2015 Model S P85. Got it cheap off a friend. Honestly rarely drive it. Fast as hell. I just prefer some sort of road feel and feedback. That is something an EV does not give. But you gotta make the decision. For me keep the car all the way.

Just keep the car stock. Really no point. Once it comes off warranty then do as you please. This is a sub 300 HP family sedan. Not to be an asshat or anything. If you want to do mods stick to wheels and maybe some suspension bits etc.. the charge pipe is better for certain cars due to the OEM ones cracking. We have not seen this in the 7th gen Leggy yet. This is a big time and common mod on the Bmw 2, 3, and 4 series cars with the 3 liter twin turbo. In fact when I had my N55 335 this is the first thing I changed out. Needless to say I have moved on to cars with a lot more power for fun. But once again not being an asshat just the mod is not right for this car. But to each their own. If you do do the install provide pics of you would.

Op, I get the issue. But why so worried about what Carfax says? I have seen clean title cars on that site show up as totaled a few months later yet no accidents. I do not put much faith in Carfax. As far as Ohio flagging the car they will not. If someone messes up just have the DMV change the paperwork. I am guessing the car was imported legally from Canada. It's not your fault people are recording in Miles when your displays says KMs. It's not like you are hiding anything.

For me to many Red flags with the site. As far as the Carbon wheel on a 6th gen personally for me it does not go with the car. It would go great with my 8th gen Civic however

Agreed on the no single plug is perfect statement. In the Civic forums the Ruthenium plugs are big with the Si drivers due to most of them operate in the VTEC range 5500 rpm and higher. In the non Si cars such as my daily R18 the Ruthenium plugs are not recommended but do work without an issue. That plug seems more geared toward high reving machines. That being said I would still stick with Iridium's in my VQ37 VHR which is pretty much one of the best NA V6s ever made(that car does have a Stillen kit on it so it is modded) I have run crap Autolite Copper plugs on old beater cars that have just run just fine for tens of thousands of miles. Me personally tend to stick with the laser Iridium NGKs on all the cars I own with the exception of the S4 and 3/4 ton diesel. Now you have me curious about putting a set in my R18 as it would take me 15 mins to change them out lol...

I don't remember a recall ever being issued. Subaru did put so e sort of wax and covered the area with some sealant from what I remember. Honestly I can't remember if it was a recall or TSB. That being said maybe the Three Liter cars were different but I never had this done on my 2006 SE at all and no mention of it at anytime. If Subaru says it's only a TSB then you are SOL as far as them paying. If it's a recall they will pay without hesitation. If one dealer gives you crap go to another one. My dealer never gives any pushback in general even with modded cars on warranty issues. Keep us informed of the outcome and good luck!

Agreed. Unless he has a lot of blow by due to bad rings. That would be the only reason for me besides being a DI not port injected motor.

Glad to hear. Just keep in mind the NGK Ruthenium is not the proper spec plug for out cars. Not saying it's not a good plug at all just not the right one. I get the point of them. But not being made by a major manufacturer is the big issue for me. Slap a Bosch, Denso, or NGK name on that and I am a player. Weather conditions for me always make the car feel different. But the "butt" dyno can be a beautiful thing!

No. Not at all. Something looks really off with the plug on the OPs picture. Seems the plug is not gapped at all. It just sounds like a hard pass red flags on all levels. I always stick with the NGK Laser Iridium plugs. Most cars Subaru/Toyota/Honda seem to use the laser Iridium plugs. Even when Denso is spec in the manual NGKs are installed from the factory. I put this one in the same category as the "Thornton Tuning Chip" scam.

Silverton, To your point. Anyone who is changing plugs please buy from a local reputable source and not Amazon or eBay. Chances are your Denso,NGK, or even OEM(Denso or NGK with factory branding) are fakes. Thank you for the reminder btw. Gotta change my daily Civics plugs as it's been 50k since last changeover. Great thing on the R18 is it takes 15 mins to do all four going slow! Bad part is 140 HP econobox for 100 mile one way commutes

I like the wheels. However personally I would have gone with 19s or even 20s to fill the gap to the wheel well. Most likely 19s just so the ride quality was not diminished.

The huge issue is the CVT trans. That is the problem with the 7th Gen. For me and no offense on this. People who just replace the rear sway and leave the stock front sway are missing out and doing it cheap. Have you tried to see what the handling would be like with a matched set? Generally speaking you can't get a matched set as the R and the F are off by 1MM or so +- each. On my G37 I have a set of Hotchkis F and R Sways. The car literally has no body roll coming out of a tight S-Curve at 65 where the speed limit is 45. Do I think my Cusco front brace helps? A little. Do I think Summer tires would make things more grippy? Sure. As far as you wanting Oversteer. Heres my main issue and that goes for any car with electric steering. You will never get the same feel as you would from a normal steering box. me personally I like heavy steering with understeer. The Subarus after the 4th gen really did not have the same feel. As for the stock battery I think its maybe 40 LBS or something like that. my Odessey is 51 LBS and when looking it seemed like one of the heaviest battery's available. Just saying to me I would not start modding a Gen 7 with a CVT very heavy. Just like my 6th Gen 3.6. Really no point to modding as that CVT will kill any fun you try to have with the car. Thats just my opinion. Now if Suabru decided to put a manual Trans in the 7th Gen XT's well thats another story.

C'Mon Booze, You know what I mean by that statement Nobody is going to take an unmodded car to a track with just tires and run laps. in in this case to add insult a CVT Trans vehicle. Tires can only do so much before the limits of the car are reached especially on a track. That is where suspension mods come in.

Every car I have is paid except for this new Acura. I get letters from the local Honda dealers trying to get me to sell them my Accord and Civic. Not gonna happen. This Acura I got for under asking at 29.5k out the door. Payments are $350 a month and change. Will have it paid off by the end of the year. As far as the regular SH AWD and the A-Spec it's just a body package with different seats. It's nice. I wish it had the Red Leather like I had on my TL SH before I sold it(I am an idiot for selling that car). As far as the color it figures it's Taffeta White which I actually prefer on the Acura/Hondas. The Black which I have on my Accord and had on my Accord and TL were not my favorite. The dealership kept trying to get me to trade in my 3.6 and it was getting annoying so we drove in my daily beater Civic so no temptation could be made to sell. One thing I love about Acuras and Hondas is so easy to maintain. Now I get to go to my in laws and get to drive a 65 Chevy 1/2 ton with a fully built 502 under the hood. That should make me want to go out and buy another Z06

60 LB Battery? I have a Odessey 24 in my 6th gen and it is 51 Lbs. That is one of the heaviest batteries that I have seen that will fit a 6th or 7th Gen. If you are using a 16 LB battery I would be looking at how it can hold up to -10 and for how long. But once again Weight honestly is the King MOD as weight is not your friend. Yes. The wheel weight makes a huge difference as well. For me I generally will add the upgrades after the tires and last is the wheels. As far as the sways always do those in pairs. Car will drive alot better then just doing the rear. I would also recommend new Whiteline etc endlinks. Sometimes the new sways are to much for stock endlinks.

Tires don't mean jack when you are running with the big boys at a track. At hat point its who has the best and fastest car. This discussion was not about a track car. This is about a stock Gen 7. Most of the time people that are track racing have mods. In fact most tracks will require you to have some safety mods. However to your point step one would be getting new tires. Yes W or Z rated tires will be a bit stiffer in the corners. But the limitations of the car also come into play. If you get into a corner with your unmodded car with "summers" only yeah you may be able to take it at a certain speed. Put bigger sways, better endlinks, a strut tower brace, and more bracing on the car you can take that same corner at least 10 MPH faster. I am living proof of that statement. My 4th Gen 3.0R was bone stock when I got it. Added all those upgrades and car can go through S-Turns at 10-15 MPH better then stock. However that being said 4th Gens are a bit stiffer then the 6th or 7th Gens stock.

We thought about it overnight and decided to just that. Same dealership(A Subaru dealer)has a 2021 MDX A-Spec SH AWD with 20K on it. Clean and no accidents. Off lease and just turned in for an Ascent. Same price as the STI was. All while I have watched two 18-21 year olds test drive that STI(One stalled it twice). I told the wife if I get you the MDX the S4 is mine now. Lol she gave me a FU look and walked away smiling.

Thats funny. However no point to wasting money on summer tires for a mid-size car with under 300 HP and tons of body roll. The 7th gen is not stiff at all. Its like saying my 6th Gen 3.6 corners like my 4th Gen 3.0 with a Cusco Brace and a mix of larger sways by Cusco/Whiteline. The 7th Gen was made to be midsize family hauler/Commuter not a canyon carver. You can't just put the 7th gen into a corner at 70 even with Summers and expect it will not lose traction. I see this every winter time where I live. Every Audi and Subaru Driver thinks they can do 80 after 4 inches of snow has fallen. What they do not get is that thin layer of ice underneath won't stop them any quicker. On a side note swapping to Snows in October is a bit early. I generally do mine after Thankgiving. everytime I have swapped out early I have been driving the WS90's in 60 degree temps and wearing them down. Not to mention the soft handling always gets me. I love the WS90 Blizzack's. However this year I need to opt for studded Snows. Probably will just throw the cheap GT radial ones on. Just saying unless you like near the Canadian border I may opt to wait until Thanksgiving to swap. On a side note we had one of the worst winters on record here. 900 inches was recorded. Still have Snow in the higher elevations. Just a tip however. A good set of Winter tires maybe lasts two years. Anytime a tire gets to 4/32 I generally get my proration and get a new set. However with Winters only company will give you a warranty and its Michelin for 40K.