silverton

I have a turbo GC that gets the same treatment as the LGT. I use conventional for the break in, and then give it Mobil1 after 1000-1500 miles, and then every 3 after that. maybe this is why all the 4 cylinder chain motors have oil consumption, no such thing as a conventional 0w.

I've run Mobil1 5-30 for the last 10 years. No issues. I've never heard of breaking a motor in on synthetic, and then switching to conventional. Isn't it the other way around?

I've installed several aftermarket turbo inlets and none of them are fun. OE just works. The OE just falls in to place once you've unbolted the TGV from the manifold. There is a torque spec for that clamp; 3nm. or 2.2 freedom units. Stop tearing the rubber!

I guess I was a little confusing. if it's 1/3 quart or less per 1200 miles, that's normal and not what i considering consuming oil. your low reading after 3000 miles is normal, 1 quart over 3000 miles is 1/3 per thou, not excessive consumption. That note is for a new car. It states you can not judge a new cars oil consumption early in its life, rings have to settle, etc. It then states if you have excessive consumption after the break in period, take the car in to the dealer. Likely for a warranty short block replacement.

OE will be the easiest.

Install must go a lot quicker when you use zip ties instead of the included clamps, I hate it when people do that. It's lazy. IAG, if you're here... the clamps included in your AOS kits are absolutely infuriating, please improve them so they're easier to use.

just the actuator part is electronic. there is still a butterfly plate that gets carbon build up. when i was a lowly express tech at the dealer we often had to clean the throttle body after disconnecting the battery or doing an ecm update, as the cars would fire right up, but die. douche a rag with throttle body cleaner, push the plate open by hand, it only goes 90 degrees before hitting its stop. wipe both sides of the plate and inner diameter of the throttle chamber. you can be more aggressive with it than you might think. when you go to restart it will crank longer than normal but it may fix your issue. honestly i'd be surprised if it wasn't something they already tried to do, if it was an actual subaru dealership that is. I have found being in the independent world that these newer cars are a bit of a mystery. the diag tools available aren't as good as subarus.

the only subaru engines that consume oil are those incorrectly assembled, or those that weren't maintained properly. I have a fresh rebuilt in my LGT that I've done several changes on and not once was it below the F line. my GC-RS on the other hand, the place i had build it didn't seal the case halves correctly... talk about an oil leak. 1 quart per 1000 miles is excessive and would fail subaru's oil consumption test. Ideally it's 1/3 or less per 1000 miles. No oil on the stick does not mean it was 'at least two quarts low'. it would be closer to at least 1.5 quarts low, still not good by any means! between F and L is 1.1 quarts, or 1 litre. there isn't enough stick left beyond the L mark to measure another quart. But you do have me curious now, I've never bothered to check the oil after putting in 2.5 to see if it touches the stick, vs 3, etc. obviously 3.5 quarts should get you to the L mark.

https://www.company23.com/products/camlocktools/506 I recommend one of these to help hold the left side cam pulleys too. they're kinda springy if you can't hold em.

Honestly thought this was a troll post, even up to you saying you were gonna file a lawsuit against them, but... it seems that you're... actually serious? There are a total of three reviews on the JET website, where it shows 5 stars. Only one of the three that actually seems like a real review of someone who owns a subaru, bought, and installed it on their car, says that the car used to gasp for air above 3000 rpm, but no more, and they gained 1/2 miles to the gallon. one half is within standard deviation, absolutely NOT notable. my MPG's vary up to 2mpg tank to tank and nothing changes but the weather. My take on this review, their car needed a MAF any way, and that they would be better off with an OE replacement. The other two reviews are clearly fluff as they were posted on the same day. I found this item on Amazon, where it carries a 2.6/5 stars from 11 global ratings, but only 4 review. two of the four written reviews actually seem to be from people who own subarus, bought and installed this part on their car. One person said it absolutely did not work on their 2015 Forester, causing it to spit and sputter, and they somehow say they're going to get a dynotune, which is just laughable since it's a 2.5i. Good luck on that tune. The other person says they noticed hesitation and lag after installing the part, they took it to the dealer where they found the car was running dangerously lean. LEAN MAKE CAR GO FAST...the dog that shits big doesn't shit for long. a third person, who i can't tell if they actually own a subaru or not since the title is "a must for all subaru mods": "WTF?? I had no idea that an air flow sensor could make such an exponential growth in hp n tq. I'm shocked at the instant difference in power. Jetchip is the real deal!" 9 people found that review helpful. 9 people also found the fourth review helpful, "Love it ..... So far sooooo good." Solid believable reviews those last two. Jegs carries this item. Where it has a 1 star review, averaged from two reviews. One person says their car would not stay running unless they played with the throttle, along with major hesitation on the freeway to the point it turned off, and they got a low circuit CEL for MAF. That's just perfect, I want my car to turn off while I'm on the freeway, I'm gonna buy three of these. The other review says this, "I installed this and my car could not drive slow or with cruise control without the engine cutting out and the car shaking and becoming uncontrollable." Summitracing carries this item. It has a 1.5 star review averaged from 6 people. One wasn't able to plug it in, one couldn't get their car to start and it produced a CEL, didn't fit this persons 2010. doesn't fit again. not for late model. oh but here's JOHN from NY with a 4/5 review, "item was easy to install. it definitely improved throttle response". Well shit, with a written review like that, why only the 4 stars? Seems like a 5 star kinda thing. man that's weird. and now that I've spent way too much time on all that. you can see how we might find this thread to be...laughable. You bought an item before fully doing your research, and you're trying to blame the company. A fool and his money are soon parted.

So 4,350 miles before you changed the oil for the first time, hopefully it was already close to zero mile oil when you purchased the car. Did you check the oil level, at any point and before you drained it? That could have given you an indicator you went too long if you discovered it was low. 5,800 miles for your second "interval" that didn't happen because you ran the motor out of oil and seized it. 5-6000 is two times too many miles on one oil change interval, doesn't matter what kind of oil. half of THAT number is at the very largest distance you should have gone without checking the oil. I recommend checking oil every other petrol station visit, and changing the oil every 3,750 miles. I do enjoy that people will rag on these cars, calling them lemons, but it really comes down to the owner. it's the owner in every instance. ^^^^ This made me cringe.

the dealership isn't lying to you.

Clean. The. Throttle. Body.

did you disassemble the head lights and paint the high beam portion yellow, or is that just reflection off the installed bulb?

In my time doing basically exactly this to my GC starting in 2015, I'm on my 8th or 9th bottom end. Make sure the tuning is good. With all the money spent, you could have bought one with a turbo already. but the journey is part of the experience! EDIT: Also, with that being said. I finally decided to do it right instead of throwing short blocks at it and pulling a degree of timing across the board to try to make the next one last longer while still having good power.... I bought a merged harness and turbo intake manifold. You do it wrong long enough, you have to take a good hard look in the mirror and just... do it right.

If you're asking how it's done, I don't recommend that you do it. It could work in a pinch and hold like it did for Notorious, or it could just be a giant waste of your time. Definitely make sure the intercooler is clean clean before attempting or the jb weld wont seal any thing. This can prove difficult depending on how healthy your engine is, I've pulled a bunch of these intercoolers off and generally have to set them on a rag to avoid a mess.

https://pulstar.com/ try these next! they convert fuel to plasma!

clean the throttle body.

I got a shortblock rebuilt for basically a total of $1800. that was the machine work, which it needed to be bored out, and assembly (both of which were about 1200 total) with new rod and main bearings (acl race) and pistons and rings from subaru. (about 500-600). zero tangible benefit from replacing a 255 with a 257 unless you're doing the rest of it too. crank, rods, and pistons are the same in the 255 and 257. the 257 "benefits" are in the size of the heads combustion chamber, fuel injectors, larger turbo, and more aggressive tuning on the ecm.

the whole thread actually. I hate feeling compelled to do other peoples homework, I even took a screenshot showing i literally put every vehicle in to look, especially when you can google search all the engine bay pics you want. After having to type this list out, there is zero consistency with this manufacturer. why separate the 2.5i and the outback sport? it's the same car as far as the MAF is considered. same with the wrx's, and the sti's.... why dont they don't know the engine code in the 2009 wrx? or the 2010 vvvveeeeee six legacy?? Shit, I want a v6 legacy, just to see what it looks like under the hood. It's little details like this that really need to make you question, is this a reputable product? Here's the homework I've done for you, I've gone through every model here and looked up its MAF part number. This should be all the information you need, not pictures. 2008 Impreza - 2.5i H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - Outback Sport H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX STI H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX STI Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Impreza - WRX TR H4 - 2.5L - EJ257 - 22680AA380 2008 Legacy - GT Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2008 Legacy - GT Spec.B H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2008 Outback - 2.5i H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - 2.5i Basic H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - 2.5i Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2008 Outback - R LL Bean Edition H6 - 3L - EZ30D - 22680AA31A 2008 Outback - XT Limited H4 - 2.5L - EJ255 - 22680AA31A 2009 Forester H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2009 Impreza H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2009 Legacy H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2009 Outback H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2009 Impreza - WRX H4 - 2.5L - 22680AA380 2010 Outback H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2010 Forester H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 transition year, but EJ+FB engines use same MAF sensor 2010 Impreza H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA380 2010 Legacy H4 - 2.5L - EJ253 - 22680AA38A 2010 Legacy V?6 - 3.6L - 22680AA38A I could not see where Subaru may have offered a V6 version of this vehicle, so I selected the H6. So... the Impreza, including the wrx and sti, along with the forester use the 380 MAF. The turbo legacy/outback and 3.0L flat six use the 31A MAF. The Non-turbo Legacy/Outback uses the 38A MAF. The 380 and 38A look interchangeable, but as someone said previously, the 31A is a mirror for the mounting holes. All that being researched and said, for this company to say their MAF is compatible with that list of vehicles, is just a straight up lie. I can only imagine the rest of their information follows the same vein.

There are several companies out there producing lift kits for these cars. ADF is pretty popular, I've installed a couple and the fit/finish of the parts are really nice.

If you have a leak from there, and you can't tell which seal it is. replace them both. it's too much work to just try one when it's only an extra ten'ish minutes (if you're being triple careful) to pull the sundial and replace that o-ring as well. granted you do need a special tool, company23 has one. I've gotten anywhere between 4-6 full rotations out of them. this sundial sets the preload on the front differential so it is imperative that it be put back exactly where it was found. this is the part number for the sundial seal https://parts.subaru.com/p/49287766/806984040.html

P0456 is a small evap leak, did you research it at all? Likely means you got a broken vacuum line somewhere. code will re-set every two drive cycles when/if cleared til the issue is found and resolved. I'd say take a look at the gas cap, but i can't remember if that has its own code like other manufacturers.

if you're having trouble, you haven't tried the right tool yet ;D i'll presume this is the plastic intake manifold? definitely a bitch to get it routed around the turbo inlet but definitely doable with the right pliers and amount of patience.

So you just replaced the seal that the axle stub goes through? The black one with the lip that can be seen in that picture? There is also an O-ring seal that is on the outer diameter of the sundial.