Upgraded Brakes - Review & Pics

It was time to replace the front rotors and pads. I'm known to be a little hard on the brakes and I tend to glaze the stock pads and rotors often. After reviewing of other brake threads on what's the best rotors and best pads were, I had a better idea on what to buy. Thanks for the reviews everyone!

 

 

Pics of my project.

DBA Slotted rotors - Hawk HPS Pads - Dupli-Color Black Caliper Paint

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p5870805dc9bc9041a8918b749f27b729/ea6b9b89.jpg

 

 

Difference in stock rotors (top) vs. DBA rotors (bottom)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p0e59c6a7e034e0ae695de785b23dc9fc/ea6b9b2e.jpg

 

 

Before picture of stock rotor and pads

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/pcd86a860853d360673b923b6bbb55063/ea6b9ae3.jpg

 

 

Cleaning of Caliper - using a toothbrush and caliper cleaner

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p38e546a5657383b8e5be285423876750/ea6b9a81.jpg

 

 

Painting of Caliper - The kit includes cleaner, paint and brush. After cleaning, the paint was very easy to apply, just brush it on. What 15 - 30 mins before appling second coat.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p6750b7279bb1c62efba723c2c9f6c0f8/ea6b9a27.jpg

 

 

After Pics - DBA rotors installed after paint dried.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p38d91f4eb8672ec846e33295806229f8/ea6b97af.jpg

 

 

The Final Look

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid225/p4427b51af8a1dd648dad52d854170109/ea6b9732.jpg

 

 

After following the instructions for brake-in time and driving for 2 weeks on them now, I found this to be one of the best upgrades I've done. When the brakes are cold they feel good like stock, but after a few stops and they start to warm up that's when I feel the difference. They grab harder without putting more brake pressure down. That's a big plus for me. Another thing I notice are the slotted rotors, the more pressure I put down the more I feel the pads sliding over the slots. It feels like very light tappings on the sterring wheel, to me it's just a good reminder of how much pressure I'm using during braking.

 

Overall - this was money well spent

 

DBA rotors - $235

Hawks HPS - $75

Duli-Color Paint - $15

Final cost - $325

Looks good sir.

 

now you just got the front rotors replaced right? I'm thinking that's the next area I'm going to want to beef up here soon.

Just did the fronts for now. I have the Hawk HPS pads for the rear which I plan on doing this week. No rotor upgrade for the rear at this time.

DBA4000's FTW. nice job on the caliper paint man

This will be one of my future upgrades as well. I may throw in the RB rear upgrade too but I guess it will depend on how much cash I have at the time.

i hope to do this sometime in the future as well. the carbotechs i have are starting to eat at my rotors.

where did you pick the dba's and hawks up?

almost picked up the dba slotted, but decided to wait. the $700 60k service put a damper on that. would like to get them at a later time.

Nice review Be sure to get some pictures of the whole car one you are done with the rear

where did you pick the dba's ?

 

+1

where did you pick the dba's and hawks up?

 

 

DBA's

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/basket.php?makeid=31&modelid=502&year=2005&partid=78&brandid=3383&page=1

Excellent selections and prices.

 

Hawks

http://www.jscspeed.com/lgt/lgt_base.html

One of our vendors.

 

FYI - The DBA's I purchased were the standard slotted, not the 4000 series.

 

Edit:

One more thing. Stock rotor weighed 22lbs vs. DBA's rotor 20.5lbs.

1.5lbs lighter per front wheel.

Nice job, exactly what I want to do.

 

Just like you I often glazed the pads... The brakes work fine until they are out of their temp range (which is pretty low), then terrible fading and temporary warping.

 

I was hoping that HPS pads would be OK for me, do you feel that they can handle some hard stops from triple digit speeds?

I was hoping that HPS pads would be OK for me, do you feel that they can handle some hard stops from triple digit speeds?

 

I haven't tried the "triple digit speeds" yet, but from 85 they work great.

looks great. now i know what i want thanks for costing me more money. bosco

How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors)

pads with proper install/break-in and good tires is all you really need for a street car. bosco

How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors)

 

tires, suspension, pads, rotors, lines, fluid. The last 2 maybe not as important but they are relatively inexpensive mods.

As long as your rotors are in good shape, all you need are just pads then. I added the slotted rotors for looks and to help prevent glazing.

 

It's all about your driving style.

Front Rotor: Brembo Racing Brake (slotted)

Front Pads: EBC Greenstuff

 

a major improvement over OEM parts from subaru, that's being nice too!

How important is it to change the break rotor? Is changing the pads more noticable? I am coming up on having to get new pads soon. If I can get much better break perfromance by buying better pads, I will, but if to get much better breaking I need to replace pads and rotors, I won't bother. Suggestions? (for pads, I am not considering changing the rotors)

 

Pads would make the biggest difference in feel. Rotors would make the biggest difference in looks on the street.

 

On track however, the DBA 4000 series would provide better cooling as the vanes are specially designed to be better than the stock straight vane.

 

Note: We carry the 4000 series for LESS than the link above. We also have all kinds of differnt pads depending on your intended use. If you have any question at all, just ask.

As long as your rotors are in good shape, all you need are just pads then. I added the slotted rotors for looks and to help prevent glazing.

 

It's all about your driving style.

 

with today's brake pad compounds, you wont have to worry about glazing... so slotted is no longer needed anymore.. in fact, from my testing, it's better with a blank rotor and run with brake ducts instead.

with today's brake pad compounds, you wont have to worry about glazing... so slotted is no longer needed anymore.. in fact, from my testing, it's better with a blank rotor and run with brake ducts instead.

 

Just curious as how long the stock rotors (or any modern rotors for that matter) would last with 85% daily driving and 15% track time?

Just curious as how long the stock rotors (or any modern rotors for that matter) would last with 85% daily driving and 15% track time?

 

Depends on driving style and pad compounds. It's too hard to just throw a general number out there.

 

You CAN still glaze pads! Depends on the compound. If it isnt the right temperature range, you can and WILL glaze pads. That or if youre using el cheapo pads, they will just fall apart.

Depends on driving style and pad compounds. It's too hard to just throw a general number out there.

 

You CAN still glaze pads! Depends on the compound. If it isnt the right temperature range, you can and WILL glaze pads. That or if youre using el cheapo pads, they will just fall apart.

 

 

I glazed my bobcats.........................on the street!

Note: We carry the 4000 series for LESS than the link above. We also have all kinds of differnt pads depending on your intended use.

 

Now you tell me!

 

 

 

 

(I think I should charge for advertising on my thread)