JmP6889928 Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 One thing to remember is that you could put 1563535196591565365 grounds on your car and it would NEVER hurt anything. But if you have NO ground, EVERYTHING can mess up. Make your own out of wire like Max shows above. It looks like he used 2-14 ga. wires if I'm correct Max? That's easily more ground than the original flat straps. I generally use a piece of 12 ga. Monster cable with the clear sheath because you can see through it and see if it's corroding. I also put heat shrink tube over the end where the crimp terminal goes on just to seal it up even more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I had one of the Electrical guy's at work make up the cables. Just told him what I was doing, he used what was easy to grab. I should seal the ends with a little RTV too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Max, Nice I-4 !!!!! as well as the straps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 I made all of my own ground cables. I used leftover JL audio cable from an old stereo install. gauge size is more than what's needed, but its what I had so, free is for me. I scrapped my factory (-) battery harness and ran a new ; *4 gauge from Head -> Frame *4 gauge from (-)battery -> trans and (-)battery -> frame. *8 gauge from (-)battery-> to alternator case -> to passenger side fender/ frame *8 gauge (+)battery -> alternator This eliminated static that I had in my radio on all channels. My grounds were corroded from Northeast livin' so I think by replacing all my grounds and cleaning all contact points it definitely helped and was an easy afternoon project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/pyqy6use.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/vuha9ede.jpg Changed my passengers ground from the heat shield to the head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Adding this to the to-do list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Possible electrolysis in the cooling system as well as RFI interference. This is exactly what will happen. I recommend replacing them with better quality TBO. One per head, and then then block grounds. If the heads don't have them, then you'll end up having a small charge arcing between the head and block, corroding the coolant passageways. Also higher quality coolant helps reduce it. Not absolutely imperative but a good preventative measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I ended up using some stainless wire shielding crimped into ring terminals ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 You need grounds both from chassis to head AND from chassis to exhaust for better O2 sensor grounding. Zack K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/25/pyqy6use.jpg Anyone want to make me new ground wires like this and I'll pay you for the service? EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 heat wrap, gauged wire, connector, solder iron, and plenty of solder. It's literally a 5 minute process lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Thing is, in order to purchase pieces you have to buy twice as much as is necessary. I would need 16" of wire, 4 connectors, minimal wrap and I don't own a soldering iron. At a store I'd have to buy 10' of wire, a bundle of connectors, a package of wrapping and a soldering iron. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 27, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 27, 2014 Get TurkeyLord to add these to his growing homebrew vendor kingdom "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Seriously though, if someone will make me two ground wires I'll gladly pay a reasonable price for them. My OEM ones are going to shit quickly. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Print the picture, take it to radio shack and ask the guy's there to get you what you need, or may be home depot. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Stereo install shop. Show them the photo and the can make you a couple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Ace hardware sells individual ring terminals, wire by the foot, small pack of heat shrink. Bought only what I needed. My entire materials bill came to $4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I changed my passengers side ground from the exhaust to the head but am now thinking it best I go back and add a third ground. So I will have grounded both heads and the exhaust for maximum horse power Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 You need grounds both from chassis to head AND from chassis to exhaust for better O2 sensor grounding. Zack K. Could possibly lead to a O2 sensor showing or going bad ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Could possibly lead to a O2 sensor showing or going bad ? I don't know about bad, but eventually over time will show less of a voltage signal going to the ECU. I bought 4 nice, heavy gauge ground straps with terminals soldered and completely shrink-wrapped so they don't corrode over time off E-Bay for like $12. Zack K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Could possibly lead to a O2 sensor showing or going bad ? I'm thinking, not so. The exhaust manifold is held on the head by studs and nuts. The threads and contact area of the nut should provide enough of a ground path. Am I mistaken ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHellrais3R Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I think it's to reduce chance of arc plane. Grounded block, heads, and exhaust manifold. Warn wires or old coil packs can create possibilities of arcing. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zactek Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I'm thinking, not so. The exhaust manifold is held on the head by studs and nuts. The threads and contact area of the nut should provide enough of a ground path. Am I mistaken ? Enough time, rust/corrosion and exhaust heat can affect even the largest contact area. A clean connection is a happy connection when it comes to electical. O2 sensors in general have a lower output voltage so a clean ground will always be beneficial for a proper voltage path. I've seen terminals and ground wires rust/coorode all the way thru, so there's no telling how bad it can get under that exhaust stud nut..... Zack K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Don't even need soldering gear if you crimp it right also, go w/ the adhesive lines heat shrink tubing for good measure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmax540 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 On the two 2005's that I own and one other 2005 the straps were green from (?) and disintegrated to the point of crumbling into powder when touched. ? ? ? http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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