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Ground straps at the bottom of engine ?


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I wouldn't use a crimp end at all for grounds. There more of a chance that it'll fail. Large gauge copper end, fill it with solder and just shove the wire into it. Let cool, then shrink wrap it.

 

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A good crimp will be superior to solder. Vibration and movement are not good for soldered joints.

I like to cook my pets and my family.

 

Use commas. Don't be a psycho.

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A good crimp will be superior to solder. Vibration and movement are not good for soldered joints.

 

A lot of people don't realize this and actually think solder is better. Look on a factory car harness, not one solder wire joint, look at aircraft, commercial and military, not one solder joint, all solid wire or crimped. It goes as far rockets, my grandpa used to be a engineer at NASA and every wire joint (although 99% are one strand from end to end) the few that are connected and crimped.

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Yup ;) all of the aircraft work we so is crimped. Also, if you're attaching to an exhaust manifold, or heat shield there is an opportunity for the solder to melt (depending on the quality of solder and heat resistance it has)
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A lot of people don't realize this and actually think solder is better. Look on a factory car harness, not one solder wire joint, look at aircraft, commercial and military, not one solder joint, all solid wire or crimped. It goes as far rockets, my grandpa used to be a engineer at NASA and every wire joint (although 99% are one strand from end to end) the few that are connected and crimped.

 

Very true. One thing for folks to keep in mind is that the crimp needs to be done correctly and with a quality crimper to assure a solid connection. I use Kline crimpers myself. Once crimped, if you put the connector in a vice and try to pull the wire out using vicegrips, the wire will break before the crimp fails.

I like to cook my pets and my family.

 

Use commas. Don't be a psycho.

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Very true. One thing for folks to keep in mind is that the crimp needs to be done correctly and with a quality crimper to assure a solid connection. I use Kline crimpers myself. Once crimped, if you put the connector in a vice and try to pull the wire out using vicegrips, the wire will break before the crimp fails.

 

Yes, Kline's are nice. We have a few very fancy ones where I work I use sometimes also. Another thing that helps is to heat shrink wrap the connection, but use the heat shrink that has the adhesive sealant in it that activates when you shrink the tubing. Helps keep out every bit of moisture and corrosion.

 

Posted pics below with a correctly crimped and wrapped ground.

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  • 1 month later...
just for the sake of reviving an old thread, I believe this is the issue that I am having with my motor (grounding issues) and I know that I am missing a few of these grounds so I am hoping that tomorrow I can get all these grounds on and the motor will finally start again! thanks for all the pictures for reference!
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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted pics below with a correctly crimped and wrapped ground.

Is this as easy as it looks? Would a good hair dryer provide enough heat to shrink wrap it? Just strip the end of the wires and insert them in? ANy firther details would be helpful. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like all I'd need (per side) is:

 

2 yellow end thingies

12 gauge wire

2 shrinkable thingies

 

I'm going to bring photos since I have no idea what I'm talking about. Simply disconnect battery to install? Much appreciated, thanks.

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Don't need to disconnect the battery... Just don't do it while the car is on :p

I think you'd want to do a higher strand count than just solid copper (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).

Yellow end thingies = crimp able ring terminals

Shrinkable thingies = shrink tubing, a hair drier should be good enough, or careful application of a lighter or blow torch... Or turn the car on and hold it next to an exhaust pipe :)

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I used old 8 gauge amp ground wire and some solder less ring terminals. Heat shrink covers the ring terminal to wire connection.DC currents travels on the surface of the wires not through them. Thats one of the reasons stranded wire is used in DC applications.

 

 

This should read " AC currents travels on the surface of the wires not through them."

 

Thanks for the correction.

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Yea the heat shrink idea is a good thought. I make re-make my grounds and shrink wrap them.

 

It's not like it cost me anything.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I had the same issue, so I went and bought a cheap grounding kit off ebay. I replaced the corroded ground, and added about 5 more...all running straight to the neg battery terminal. $20 and super easy to install. Like this one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-points-Grounding-Earth-Cable-Wire-Kit-Performance-HKS-JDM-Universal-purple-/140924899757?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item20cfc751ad&vxp=mtr

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Here's what we use for the O2 Generator we build and sell to the US Navy for submarines.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWEVEL058116

 

I would think they would work fine.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Posted pics below with a correctly crimped and wrapped ground.

Are you using standard copper end pieces? I live in the north and I'm looking for the best corrosion resistance possible.

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Are you using standard copper end pieces? I live in the north and I'm looking for the best corrosion resistance possible.

 

Yes

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 year later...

Just did this replacement myself. I used some marine grade cables from Amazon and I am certain I wont be needing to ever replace them again.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGJGALE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage]LINKY[/ame]

 

They are a little long but they work just fine with a little bend.

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Funny story, here at work I just got a phone call from an Electrical Engineer asking about what we used for a ground strap?

 

I said, wait a minute, I know how to get that p/n. I came here, clicked on the link to NAPA from a few post ago and forwarded him the NAPA page.

 

What a great forum...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 years later...
Just discovered the disintegrated straps underneath on both sides of the motor. Anyone know what length each needs to be? From what i read on each side it should run from frame to head and possibly a 3rd from frame to exhaust manifold? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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