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What did you do to your Legacy today? [PNW Edition]


tpeterson4237

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Yep. And no need for the iframe, obviously. Generally, iframes make me cringe anyway.

 

Me too, my final try was youtube's embed link.

 

Of course I can automate a network with PowerShell, but embedding a video on a forum throws me for a loop.:lol:

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Going in for a rebuild? Looks like it needs coolant lines. How are the blades and play? Stock? Porting?

 

And yeah, she's a keeper.

 

What do you have for headers/up/dp? What are your plans/usage?

 

Details!

 

It needs coolant lines, and has a little play side to side.

 

Plan is to send it to SoCal Porting for their Stage 2 with welded IWG. They machine it to basically be a 17g, with billet wheel and upgraded internals.

 

So far I'm thinking:

Tomei UEL

GS EWG UP

GS DP

Tial 44mm

Cobb intake w/box

Q300 Exhaust

 

I recently installed a new MAF and GS TMIC to fix some AF Learn issues.

 

See how much I can make with that. Until I break something...

 

Then most likely closed deck, forged internals and STI 6MT swap.

 

Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk

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Those are some decent plans. I suggest talking with JmP on here about a turbo rebuild as he does a really good job with these as well.

 

For your parts list,

 

Why keeping UEL? Why not go EL?

Since you've already got the GS TMIC and are getting other GS bits why not get the GS intake?

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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What do you use the car for? And what hp/tq are you after? Or budget, but you seem to be well funded guessing from the list. ;)

 

I'd also NOT weld the iwg shut and just get the GS bracket. Easier to undo and sell for larger turbo upgrade or partout. And no porting, but i'm no sure if that was part of the "stage 2" package.

 

And second the notion of elh over uelh. Might as well go holy header and forget the gs up and uelh.

 

And WhiteLightningAllTheThings!

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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Those are some decent plans. I suggest talking with JmP on here about a turbo rebuild as he does a really good job with these as well.

 

For your parts list,

 

Why keeping UEL? Why not go EL?

Since you've already got the GS TMIC and are getting other GS bits why not get the GS intake?

What do you use the car for? And what hp/tq are you after? Or budget, but you seem to be well funded guessing from the list. ;)

 

I'd also NOT weld the iwg shut and just get the GS bracket. Easier to undo and sell for larger turbo upgrade or partout. And no porting, but i'm no sure if that was part of the "stage 2" package.

 

And second the notion of elh over uelh. Might as well go holy header and forget the gs up and uelh.

 

And WhiteLightningAllTheThings!

 

I have read good things about SoCal Porting - Subaru, so that's why I'm planning to go with them. Though, I will research some of JmP's work. This Guy had good reviews, along with one of the guys that did my stereo has had a few worked over by them.

I might not weld it after seeing this GS IWG Bracket, thought the new VF52 does have a wastegate crack. Welding it just seemed to be the best way to fix it and not ever worry about it again.

 

The UEL vs EL debate has gone back and forth. I actually heard a Legacy around me that has the Tomei UEL and it sounded pretty damn good. I take it your referring to these, Holy Header W/EWG and TiAL 38mm? I'd need to call my guy to see how this changes our plans going from 44mm to 38mm.

 

My tuner said the Cobb intake plays better when tuning. Though, I do like the GS intake better, which I might change my mind and go with it.

 

This car will also get the RaceComp T1's and Spec B aluminum parts (I bought from other members), Whiteline poly bushings, Cusco sways, Stoptech Trophy BBK, and Enkei RS05RR wrapped in Potenza RE-11 (Summers) and Blizzak LM-32 (Winters) 245/40R18.

 

The drive train has the Beatrush Pitch stop, Group N mounts motor & trans, Whiteline bushings for front diff & inserts for the rear, and the SuperPro SPF3007K in the subframe.

The motor has GS TMIC, KillerB oil pickup and Infamous Performance Oil Feed kit.

 

I plan to do the DC Power engineering 270AMP alt, KillerB oil pan W/baffle plate, Fluidampr damper pulley, whiteline KTA124 & KCA313 and a bunch of other things I can't think of at the moment.

 

I guess to answer your question Flinkly, I'm going with quality parts to see how much I can make. I'd like around 300/300. Though at that point, I'm sure something will break in the trans. So at that point I'll probably STI 6MT swap and then reevaluate the motor to go bigger or not. This has been my dream car for years, and after paying off my F350 I've got some extra funds to play with.

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I went down to Tacoma to Williams Oil Filter Service Company and picked up a compression fitting and a right angle -4 adapter to use the oil line I bought from Gex to hopefully get moving forward on getting the SpecB going again.

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Just to respond to a few things, i suggested not welding just to keep the part resale up. When i was looking for my latest turbo, so many had been "mangled", like turbine porting and welded shut IWG. just makes me cringe when good parts are "irreversibly" modded, mostly when there's a limited pool of the part (like gutting an oem DP. Another thing i've run into...). As for the crack, most VF52s have them and unless you're running it red hot alot, or are tuning to the edge, you'll be just fine.

 

Intake and cat back exhaust are just noise mods till over 350/350, and even then the dollar to pony ratio is pretty low. But people know that and still get them for just the noise. ;)

 

EL vs UEL will reduce the boxer rumble, but aftermarket exhaust and intake should provide plenty of noise. EL is just better for performance and makes things easier on and for the engine.

 

Turbo Subaru wagon has always been my dream car too. Form and function all in one. But if a $300 intake won't offer me performance and will make tuning harder (and it sounds like you do, but asking your tuner about engine mods and preferences is best if you don't care what you get), would rather spend that on the next thing in the list.

 

Oh, and the GS pulley is great too. Less weight, but enough to keep the engine/trans happy. ;)

 

Edit: and don't forget injectors and pump! ID1000 and dw65c, cept the pump has had some bad reviews lately. That and an upgraded vf52 (and good tune) should push you over 300/300-ish.

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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Just to respond to a few things, i suggested not welding just to keep the part resale up. When i was looking for my latest turbo, so many had been "mangled", like turbine porting and welded shut IWG. just makes me cringe when good parts are irreversibly modded, mostly when there's a limited pool of the part (like gutting an oem DP. Another thing i've run into...). As for the crack, most VF52s have them and unless you're running it red hot alot, or are tuning to the edge, you'll be just fine.

 

Intake and cat back exhaust are just noise mods till over 350/350, and even then the dollar to pony ratio is pretty low. But people know that and get them for the noise. ;)

 

EL vs UEL will reduce the boxer rumble, but aftermarket exhaust and intake will provide plenty of noise for you. EL is just better for performance and makes things easier for the engine.

 

Turbo Subaru wagon has always been my dream car too. Form and function all in one. But if a $300 intake won't offer me performance and will make tuning harder (and it sounds like you do, but asking your tuner about engine mods and preferences is best if you don't care what you get), would rather spend that on the next thing in the list.

 

Oh, and the GS pulley is great too. Less weight, but enough to keep the engine/trans happy. ;)

 

Edit: and don't forget injectors and pump! ID1000 and dw65c, cept the pump has had some bad reviews lately. That and an upgraded vf52 should push you over 300/300-ish.

 

After talking to Ruben @ SoCal Porting, they will weld and machine the IWG. Then install the GS bracket. I'm also going to have them ceramic coat inside and out.

 

I was planning on the ID1000's, though have read about the DW65C issues and was looking for an alternative.

 

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Reads like overkill for 300. I had 335 on stock intake and headers. :)

Probably true. Though if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it right.

 

Besides, I think I've convinced the other half to let me build a Daily that's also track ready... Then I can find a Forester to hack up and try to fit 33's. I am sticking with stock headers though. Talking with my tuner today, we ironed out some things and now it's on me to buy parts.

 

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Probably true. Though if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it right.

 

Besides, I think I've convinced the other half to let me build a Daily that's also track ready... Then I can find a Forester to hack up and try to fit 33's. I am sticking with stock headers though. Talking with my tuner today, we ironed out some things and now it's on me to buy parts.

 

Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk

A daily that's track ready is pretty easy. Biggest engine oil capacity you can get. Brake discs and pads bedded together and swapped at track. Track specific wheels and tires (light wheels and toyo rr are a great combo). Cheap coilovers with competition corner balance. Detune motor down to 300 hp on 92 octane, then run 108. Replace stock radiator with high quality aluminum (standard thickness is fine). Overfill oil by 1 quart at start and check before every session.

 

Everything else is bling. :)

 

If you really are concerned about brakes, add front ducts. Mucb cheaper and better performance than a bbk.

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yeah, second on boxkita's words. i've found some of it out for myself, and most gathered from the people (like boxkita) who really know what you NEED. Most things are just bling, or might get a pony or 2 for a $300+ part (not cost effective). Alot even hurt performance, like track pads that you'll never keep in their range when daily'd, or aftermarket headers/exhaust that are just too big for even upgraded turbo's on a 2.5.

 

i'm just trying to assist in stretching the dollars out for the most bang for the buck.

 

at the end of the day, you can obviously do whatever you want, and buy used or new, and get whatever you want for your car. cause it is your car. :)

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Cheap coilovers with competition corner balance. Detune motor down to 300 hp on 92 octane, then run 108. Replace stock radiator with high quality aluminum (standard thickness is fine). Overfill oil by 1 quart at start and check before every session.

 

Any reason not to run daily with a overfilled oil?

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I understand a few things I've chosen can be considered bling. And I'm ok with that.

 

I enjoy the car, and changing it to suit me. $$$ BBK? I don't need it, but I want it. I think every Legacy and Wagon on here is a work of art, an expression of the driver. I'm just having fun and enjoying it ☺.

 

Rhitter: I'm pretty sure if you continually run extra oil, you'll get "looping," which can cause problems. Though BoxKita knows far more than I do.

 

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Any reason not to run daily with a overfilled oil?

 

I never did. It was only at the track with the huge amount of blowby from running full boost. The extra capacity of the KB oil pan is enough insurance on the road.

 

Typical oil burn rate for road cars is 1 qt per 1000-2000 miles. Typical oil burn rate on track was 1 quart every 20 minutes. If I stayed out a long time, the oil stick would be dry when I came in. :eek:

 

Not a mechanic, however, the things I did at the track I would never do on the street. Overfilling oil was one of the track only things...

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I understand a few things I've chosen can be considered bling. And I'm ok with that.

 

I enjoy the car, and changing it to suit me. $$$ BBK? I don't need it, but I want it. I think every Legacy and Wagon on here is a work of art, an expression of the driver. I'm just having fun and enjoying it ☺.

 

Rhitter: I'm pretty sure if you continually run extra oil, you'll get "looping," which can cause problems. Though BoxKita knows far more than I do.

 

Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk

 

Smartphone keyboard...

 

I meant "don't let the lack of parts keep you off the track". I've read so many posts about "needing to upgrade" before going to the track.

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