pfoyle Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 should be getting mine this week, but I just read the part about the RSB.. I have the 26mm whiteline .. I didn't mention it when I ordered.. I didn't know... Is it a big deal? Can I modify it to fit? I don't think it's a problem, but I'm not sure. When I mentioned my 21mm whiteline to him on the phone, it sounded like he didn't need to trim it at all... perhaps because the GT comes stock with a RSB, so it's already accounted for? Not sure. Just got mine in the mail yesterday! Installation sometime this week... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 Just got mine in the mail yesterday! Installation sometime this week... Sooo I tried to put mine on... uh... didn't fit. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.... the low mount turbo metal plate doesn't allow it to lay flush... Let me know your attempt... its actually very easy to unhook the plastic bottom - maybe five minutes. The whole process for the front skid plate should take about 15 minutes top - if mine fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Sooo I tried to put mine on... uh... didn't fit. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.... the low mount turbo metal plate doesn't allow it to lay flush... Let me know your attempt... its actually very easy to unhook the plastic bottom - maybe five minutes. The whole process for the front skid plate should take about 15 minutes top - if mine fit. Ruh roh... that sucks! Don't think I'll be able to get to mine today, and weather tmrw looks kinda sketchy, so it might be a few days before I can get under my car. Let me know if you have any breakthroughs, otherwise I'll let you know when I take a swing at it... now I'm nervous! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Ruh roh... that sucks! Don't think I'll be able to get to mine today, and weather tmrw looks kinda sketchy, so it might be a few days before I can get under my car. Let me know if you have any breakthroughs, otherwise I'll let you know when I take a swing at it... now I'm nervous! lol Me too!... but I'm only supposed to get mine on the 5th of Dec.. stupid Customs/borders..... MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Ok! so I called Primitive (really nice guys) and talked about what I experienced - being that the turbo metal shield prevents the skid plate from mounting flush to the frame. They said they designed it off of one of the guy's 2010 LGT almost three years ago so nothing should be different - in discussing, they realized that when they did theirs they REMOVED the turbo metal skid plate (which is not nessessary now since there is that massive skid plate instead of a plastic cover). Its just not on the instructions.... which they will now fix SOOOOOOOO those of you who have one ordered remove metal skid plate from turbo. (also, take a look under there its really beautiful... I almost kissed it. ) - it should fit now just fine. I will have to wait till this weekend to have another go at mine. If some of you beat me to it - post up and let us know how it went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Yay! Nice to hear it's an easy "fix"! Thanks islandborn, for tracking down that info and setting our minds at ease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dew2far Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 And now you too can go run over stuff. Yay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 We LOVE the Primitive skid plates. Been installing and selling them for years. The guys over there are extremely knowledgeable and use what they sell, just like us. We are also a Primitive dealer, so if anyone is interested we can drop ship em right to you. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 OK!!!!!! so I finally got around to trying part 2 install - removing the metal plate protecting the turbo..... The skidplate is on solid. Bolted all up..... started the car..... Uh oh, when the engine is at idle - especially with the AC on - it made an awful rattle. Got out looked under and the turbo is soooooo close to the plate that the vibration of the engine causes it to come in contact with it. I figured if I could get some rubber grommets and place them between the frame and skidplate, it would give me a bit of room. So I bought a few, 10 to be exact, of fender washers. I wish i could find thicker ones but this is all they had at the time. 4 on each of the front screws and two on the back (back was just for the contact reason) Put them on and tightened it all up. YAY!!! have the clearance and a bit of rubber between the metal contact points which is nice. NOW I'm bad ass. I will call Primitive Racing tomorrow morning about the fix - maybe it was just mine.... Below is the contact point, the grommets, and the final screw down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I'm not sure you want rubber washers. I would think metal fender washers might be a better option. That play of the rubber may cause hitting something to tear the plate off or otherwise compromise it. See what Paul says though, he is the expert in this field. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 islandborn are you still running the stock downpipe? From the looks of it, if anybody has an aftermarket downpipe then they'll probably be fine without adding washers. I know I had to remove the small support bracket that the skidplate is contacting when I installed an AVO turboback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I as well installed the skid plate, mine doesn't rub... I had some trouble getting the screws in cause I left the front plastic part in but with a little love it went in nicely. The only thing I couldn't get in were the two push clips that hold next to the jack pad... I guess cause I kept the front shield on, (no trimming either) it increased the distance and the clips weren't long enough to grab the other side. Also I couldn't for the life of me get the diff bolts loose to put on the rear diff plate.. I'm going to try again this week with a can of PB blaster.. All in all the front was easy it actually took me less than an hour to install. Drove around all week-end and no vibration issues...... MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 I'm not sure you want rubber washers. I would think metal fender washers might be a better option. That play of the rubber may cause hitting something to tear the plate off or otherwise compromise it. See what Paul says though, he is the expert in this field. I typed generically... sorry to have misled. Yes. I bought fender washers - as the pic showed - neoprene. In my non-tech mind I typed it out as simple rubber bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 I as well installed the skid plate, mine doesn't rub... I had some trouble getting the screws in cause I left the front plastic part in but with a little love it went in nicely. The only thing I couldn't get in were the two push clips that hold next to the jack pad... I guess cause I kept the front shield on, (no trimming either) it increased the distance and the clips weren't long enough to grab the other side. Also I couldn't for the life of me get the diff bolts loose to put on the rear diff plate.. I'm going to try again this week with a can of PB blaster.. All in all the front was easy it actually took me less than an hour to install. Drove around all week-end and no vibration issues...... wonderful! then it might have been mine bent a bit off or what not.... Yeah, the push clips next to the jack pad - no do either. Haven't attempted the diff plate yet - look forward to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 islandborn are you still running the stock downpipe? From the looks of it, if anybody has an aftermarket downpipe then they'll probably be fine without adding washers. I know I had to remove the small support bracket that the skidplate is contacting when I installed an AVO turboback. Yes to the stock dp.... however, I had them trim the skidplate (they asked if I had one) to make way for my AVO DP that I have waiting to be put it. That would be great if it would clear then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebo03 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 The cat on the AVO DP is one big mother. That would be the only area where it may not clear. You'll lose the bracket when the DP is installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 The cat on the AVO DP is one big mother. That would be the only area where it may not clear. You'll lose the bracket when the DP is installed. This was my experience too. We removed that plate when installing the AVO TBE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Installed mine yesterday... took of the turbo housing and had no problems with rubbing or vibrations (Invidia TBE). Wasn't sure what cut off of the plastic trim that can stay on, so I just started cutting away pieces that seemed to be in the way. The trim hangs a little low in a few places, but it doesn't seem like it will be a problem (famous last words). Attached are some pics I took during and after the install... I have some more if anyone needs more pics, but these are the best of the bunch... snapped these photos before I decided to take off the turbo guard (it's the gray/silver box in the 2nd and 5th pics). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Next question: Has anyone put on the rear-diff cover yet? I tried to do it yesterday, but couldn't get my socket/wrench to the rear-facing 17mm bolts that connect it to the subframe... what tool gets up in there? Do I need an off-set wrench/ratchet? Any other tips or tricks I should be aware of... Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 I tried to use a regular 17mm key and I just couldn't get those nuts off... I had run out of pb blaster so I'm going to try again this weekend... I didn't even trim the "front" plastic part I just detached the two pieces put the front one back on and "sandwiched" it underneath the metal skid plate.. I assume it was a little trickier to do it my way but I didn't need to trim anything... and I believe it eliminated the vibrations... MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastley85891 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Primitive make some good stuff, I had the extended skid plate on my 06 STi and is saved my ass on more then one occasion - Paul Eckland is a real cool guy, if your in PDX Id advise his Rally school, its nuts, so so much fun ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4thsubaru Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Just curious how much you got dinged on duty.Did they ship USPS? Did you buy it direct from primative racing. Thanks I as well installed the skid plate, mine doesn't rub... I had some trouble getting the screws in cause I left the front plastic part in but with a little love it went in nicely. The only thing I couldn't get in were the two push clips that hold next to the jack pad... I guess cause I kept the front shield on, (no trimming either) it increased the distance and the clips weren't long enough to grab the other side. Also I couldn't for the life of me get the diff bolts loose to put on the rear diff plate.. I'm going to try again this week with a can of PB blaster.. All in all the front was easy it actually took me less than an hour to install. Drove around all week-end and no vibration issues...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pfoyle Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 I tried to use a regular 17mm key and I just couldn't get those nuts off... I had run out of pb blaster so I'm going to try again this weekend... I didn't even trim the "front" plastic part I just detached the two pieces put the front one back on and "sandwiched" it underneath the metal skid plate.. I assume it was a little trickier to do it my way but I didn't need to trim anything... and I believe it eliminated the vibrations... I couldn't even get my wrenches or sockets onto the bolts... so I never even got to see if I could get them loose... The spare tire wheel well is in the way of my sockets, and my wrenches/ratchets are flat and can't get into the recessed area where the nuts sit... You got at them with a flat wrench? Or do you have an off-set wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpidermanMTL Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 offset ... but it would slip if I apply pressure.... MY BUILD TAKE 2 : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/spideys-12lgt-take-2-266018.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 3/16" Primitive plate installed on 05 wagon. I cut the original shield using the Primitive as a template so I could keep the original plastic sides. I'm going to secure the plastic to the aluminum to keep the plastic from flapping and to have more of the original "sealed" coverage. Nice product, great quality, timely delivery, easy install. No problem with the aftermarket FSB and DP. Squirrels, chipmunks and possums should enjoy it as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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