Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Gates Kevlar belt ripped with less than 15k miles :(


Recommended Posts

I guess with all the extra stuff your buying, that's not bad.

 

I paid 2100 for the EJ257 and gasket set, 1200 for the shop to diss-assy the long block, rebuild the heads and port them, and re-assy the long block with timing belt and oil pan.

 

I think it's in my thread.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 196
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Mega Users

That number doesn't look like it includes labor? I apologize if I'm missing something....

 

4 grand, and you get a motor that you can really have a lot of fun without having to worry much. Hell, I'd throw in an extra 500 for a dyno tune to play it safe.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm about 4500 in right now, but I needed a new turbo and had my heads completly rebuilt. Guides, seals, valves, springs, retainers ect ect.

Did you get the PM I sent you?

 

Yes I did. thank you

 

That number doesn't look like it includes labor? I apologize if I'm missing something....

 

4 grand, and you get a motor that you can really have a lot of fun without having to worry much. Hell, I'd throw in an extra 500 for a dyno tune to play it safe.

 

Yup includes everything. I think it's a little high tho, atleast compared to others.

Infamous is tuning me, he's been with me the whole way, so I'll just stick with him.

 

They're tearing her down today and should get a call later

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't called, but I did stop by today to drop off some parts (timing covers and new cam gear)

 

Block needs rebuilding, but more because of wear and tear. Looked like nothing was damaged from the timing belt fluke. The heads were good all around, (they'll still pressure test it though). They said if I had a cracked ringland, it was starting to develop so it was just a matter of when it would fail. I decided to do the whole long block rebuild. I just kissed $4k with everything from above, plus a nitride crank.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352995920.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352995916.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352995913.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352995907.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got bored. still waiting on my tgv deletes though.

 

DEI reflective tape the inside of my heat-shield (had more wrap left over)

 

put back together as much vac lines and wires as I could on the intake mani. Also sanded off the paint where the bov mates to the pipe.

 

Other than that, just waiting on the longblock to be done. Might take another week or two.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1353044690.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1353044697.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Defiantly got everything ziptied !

 

Got a new driver side window switch since I have the time now. Also put in better speakers and painted the door handles, just the front two since they were all scratched up.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1353259841.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got an update from the shop today. They said all the parts arrived and the block/ heads are at the machine shop. I'm hoping if all goes well, we can get done sometime next week and get her running again by next weekend.

 

You guys have any other suggestions while the motor is out ?

I already:

ziptied the lines,

sandblasted every metal part/ repainted them,

tgv deletes,

new engine mounts,

re-greased sway bar,

inspect turbo/ painted housing,

added heat shielding inside heat shield,

re-greased the tob snout /cleaned gunk out of transmission mouth

wrinkled black fmic pipes

painted hi temo header/ up/ dp

wrapped uppipe

cleaned & painted power steering pump/ alt/ ac comp./ & their mounts

replaced cracked hoses/ got new clamps

added water shield to cone filter

new power steering fluids

 

tucked up the exhaust some using clamps

put in some new infinity speakers

'sound deadening' front door panels

cleaned carpet/ added plastic film over carpet

fixed driver window switch

sand and paint front door handles trim pieces

buffed/ polished/ and waxed the exterior

 

 

As you can see, I lost some sleep over this, but I figure I may as well. If i wasn't working or at school, I was on the car.

 

clutch was replaced about 500 miles ago. same with trans fluids

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Radiator hoses and screw type clamps. For some reason my old clamps would not fit over the new hoses on the necks.

 

Do you have oil and filters, fresh coolant. I used the left over prestone and peak I had from the timing belt change years ago and topped it off with Peak Global pre mix.

 

how's your steering rack, does it need anything.

 

May be the brake booster brace, while the engines out.

 

How are the heat shields on the exhaust manifold, may be just heat wrap them.

 

what about the two heater hoses from the firewall ?

 

screw type clamps for the hoses on the valve covers.

 

tighten the fuel line clamps.

 

Wire brush the matting surface between the tranny and the block, its a ground path. Also the ground wire on the drivers side head should be brushed.

 

Clean the starter contacts and cable.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm good on the clamps, rad hoses, oil, filter, coolant, and fuel clamps. heatshields are good as well.

 

Good call on heater hoses and starter connections. I suppose I'll inspect them.

 

Rack and booster should be ok, although this would be a great time to do a sti brake booster for kicks.

 

wirebrush mating surfaces all ready done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think any good grease like you would use for ball joints and steering joints to high temp wheel bearing grease.

 

You may even use high pressure grease like you use on the ball for towing or the 5th wheel for towing.

 

The grease is cheap at Tractor Supply.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may find a good price on Rotella t6 there too.

 

Oh they have good bird seed there also. If you have bird feeders on the deck. lol

 

Oh lawn fertilizer is great too. I got into using there stuff, it's much cheaper then Scotts and works great with the crappy dirt we have here.

 

I moved into the GF's house where she hasn't done anything to the lawn since her husband passed from cancer 6 years ago. With the lime and fertilizer and grass seed the lawn is coming back nicely.

 

Sorry to get off track.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greased up the starter. That was a smart idea as mine would screech on cold days. I also wire tucked some loose lines I had around the firewall. Added some rubber sleeves around my fmic pipes that are around the bumper area to prevent rubbing. Also cleaned my maf sensor again.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use