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Gates Kevlar belt ripped with less than 15k miles :(


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So Last night got to tearing down. I got the complete intake manifold off and the wiring harness. Will need to get some new hoses as some cracked, but other then that everything else looked good, even the inlet. Took a look at the valves on intake side, they look squeaky clean. Also took some parts with me to work. My power steering pump was disgusting, so i sandblasted it and flat blacked it.

 

Tonight Ill try to get the exhaust side out.

 

Question: do I need to push the transmission back to get the engine out or just unbolt the engine mounts and bolts off trans to block pull out ?

 

Also, Do i have to remove the a/c lines ?

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352327145.jpg

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352326630.jpg

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Pull the compressor (leaving lines intact) and set aside. The bracket that holds the compressor is your forward lift point. That is what the hole in the top of the bracket is for. The bracket back by the tranny (next to the turbo) with the hole in it is your rear lift point. Same with power steering pump, pull it and set it aside. No need to move the tranny. With the radiator out there should be plenty of room to pick the engine.
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didn't you see and read this.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

There must be pictures there.

 

You don't need to slide the tranny, just remove the bolts that hold it to the block.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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didn't you see and read this.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

There must be pictures there.

 

You don't need to slide the tranny, just remove the bolts that hold it to the block.

 

I have when you were rebuilding it. haven't had the time to go through it

 

Please make sure the threads on that waterpump bolt are in tact. You might have pulled the threads out torqing it. Helicoil for the win!

 

I love locktite!

 

Good thinking. The bolt didn't look like it pulled any threads. I'll check though.

 

Because of the mods I have my shop recommended some one step colder plugs ?

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I have one step colder plugs in the wagon. They were cheaper, and with my boosted Honda background, it was common to go at least one step colder.

 

You really don't need them as long as the tune is good.

 

 

Here's a quick picture for you, notice where the chain is attached and the AC compressor pulley over the fender.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4682.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Did some more stuff today. Last night I took off the headers. Tonight Ill get the DP, UP and turbo off. Plan to finally get the engine out over the weekend and send to the shop for the following week.

 

While I'm at it. I'm sprucing up some parts.

 

Wrinkled Black my pipes. I was never a fan of the polished look. Not bad looking for something out of the can.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352408124.jpg

 

Look at all the squiggly lines

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352408131.jpg

 

Sand blasted my heat shields for header and the TGV runners. Will get them painted with Hi -temp black. Also want to do the tgv delete mod, not sure if I want to diy with these , or buy some.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352411481.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352415519.jpg

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Just got done moving turbo/ up/dp and some other misc items.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352444122.jpg

 

 

Here's where all the stuff is hiding

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352444127.jpg

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I suggest that when your ready to go back in with it, assemble as much as you can with the engine out of the car. I put mine in the way it came out in the picture.

 

Check and double check all the connectors, I did leave one off but found it before I went to start it the first time.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Good Idea. Got all my exhaust hi temp painted. Tomorrow Ill have to go to the parts store, pick up some odds and ends. Now I need to look for an engine hoist. Hoping some friends might find their's. Really don't want to spend money to rent one.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352500016.jpg

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Might find there's. Mine folds up but i have no idea how'd you ever miss place it around the house. Must be a big garage or shed.

 

:)

 

Have you thought about heat wrapping the exhaust manifolds. I did my UP and DP, I have a lose heat shield, should have just wrapped them.

 

Another tip, wire brush all the mating surfaces to make sure you have a good ground path. ie, tranny to block, starter to tranny, mounts to chassis and block, etc.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I was going to pick some wrap and do the headers and for sure the up. I was thinking putting the shields on the outside of the wrapped headers. I never had an issue with rattling, not much rust in Florida.

 

My biggest sore with all this is when getting the hoses/ lines back together on the manifold. That and my wallet. Just want to make sure everything is in the right place. Everything else is cake.

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Not sure how you took the manifold off, but I do have pictures and made it a point not to take off what didn't need to be removed.

 

If you step back, take a deep breath and think about what makes sense, you should be able to get it right. As your putting other things back on, keep looking at other things and make sure they are correct.

 

I was nervous when I first started mine. But it fired right up just like it does everyday.

I did havethe key turned on and off a few times before I started it, so I guess the ECU had already reset itself after not having power for a few weeks.

 

My heads were ported, but make sure the shop knows what they are doing. These are different then other heads. My shop knew that most gains in these heads are in the valve pocket not port size and matching.

 

It's all in my thread.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Engine's out. But not after hassling for a few hours with the pass. side engine mount. Had to cut the bolt. Looks like Ill be getting some new mounts as well.

 

I filled up the intake valves with gasoline and none of them leaked, included #4, so either I bent an exhaust valve or its a bad ringland ? We'll found out Minday when I drop off the block

 

Took the liberty to add some jazz to the turbo. Also put back whatever vac lines I could and inlet onto the manifold.

 

Calling it a night.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352599912.jpg

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352599917.jpg

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352599909.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352609564.jpg

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I'm having trouble searching for engine mounts. I Googled search and the only ones that pop up look like this:

 

 

Cause that's not what ours look like, unless its a generic picture. Rock auto and Autparts warehouse don't have anything either.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRONTO-EM-9024-Motor-Engine-Mount-/360499931210?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy|Submodel%3AGT+Limited|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L&hash=item53ef78684a&vxp=mtr

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Link to thread of New Perrin engine mounts.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-perrin-engine-mounts-vs-group-n-196098.html

 

The pic. in your links, ,look like group N motor mounts.

 

Do a Image search "Subaru motor mounts" all kind of leads pop up.

 

Mike

 

Haha, thanks, but that won't happen.

 

I would remove the paint from the mating surface of the turbo to tmic.

 

It's just a bit of overspray. But will do

 

 

So does anyone know what the orientation is on these 3 wires. Like which wire plugs from top to bottem. They connect to the pass. Rear coil. My connector shattered into many pieces.

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/1352672638.jpg

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Dropped the Engine off Today. They said they wont be able to look into it until Wednesday, but I should get a call by then for an update. They did print out for a me a 'worst case' type of scenario quote (completely rebuilding the motor)

 

Includes :

 

11mm Oil pump $150

NGK plugs $40

Wiseco Piston 99.5mm Bore $537

ACL Race Rod Bearing 52mm $56

ACL Race Main Bearing $87

Manley Exhaust Valves 32mm $155

Manley Intake Valves 36mm $155

Valve Guides $80

Engine Gasket set $257

ARP head studs $199

Premium Oil+ filter change $25

 

Shortblock Machine/Assemble $935

Cylinder Head teardown/ cleanup/ resurface $425

Longblock Assemble/ T-belt install $680

 

Tax: $228.30

TOTAL : $4,033.30

 

Add a nitrated Crank for $300 more

 

They said it's a very very rough quote. It doesn't include the 10% discount they'll give me. Also said that they'll price match on the parts if I find cheaper. What do you guys think about the pricing ? Don't forgot, I did bring in just a bare long block for them to start with.

 

I guess I'm at a crossroads here. At a 120k miles, should I rebuilt any way, even if the shortblock is good ?!?!

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