ibr_adam09 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Thanks guys. Worse comes to worse. lets Say a ring land has cracked in #4. Would I be better off getting a new shortblock, or just getting new rings/ pistons and slight honing ? The shop said they have done countless honing w/ no reliability issues and its much cheaper. I'm just concerned because I don't want to choose honing and see a increase in oil consumption down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Rebuild it. You can build it better, stronger, faster than before. Honestly, rebuild it. Cost for an OEM shortblock is too high and you still have the crappy pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuntryQuestTSi Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Oh god yes rebuild it. Do not buy a a OEM short block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sooshimon Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just saw this thread. Sorry for the loss. Makes me feel better about the big bucks I spent to have a professional shop (AllPro) do my timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Rebuild it. You can build it better, stronger, faster than before. Honestly, rebuild it. Cost for an OEM shortblock is too high and you still have the crappy pistons. Oh god yes rebuild it. Do not buy a a OEM short block Why??? No really why? Being still fresh to subarus I am really curious. Seeing shit my friends pulled through with build motors that run like ****** diesel trucks and in general not expecting more than 50k out of them....? For stock or close to stock power or say under 300whp.....what's wrong with oem short block? I am asking as a happy owner of a stage 1 stock car with 85k on the clock, great compression on all 4, no oil consumption what so ever and ....knock on the wood, great running stock engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuntryQuestTSi Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Its over priced, If you want to spend money and buy OEM again go for it. Or built it a little better, take care of the weak points and still be cheaper. I would rather buy a mild built short block rather than a OEM one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Why??? No really why? Being still fresh to subarus I am really curious. Seeing shit my friends pulled through with build motors that run like ****** diesel trucks and in general not expecting more than 50k out of them....? For stock or close to stock power or say under 300whp.....what's wrong with oem short block? I am asking as a happy owner of a stage 1 stock car with 85k on the clock, great compression on all 4, no oil consumption what so ever and ....knock on the wood, great running stock engine. Because all you need is a decent set of pistons. The pistons are the weakest link in the motor. Using an OEM shortblock will add approx $600+ dollars to a "rebuild". Then you still have the OEM pistons and more. A well assembled motor will last more than 50k even with forged pistons. If the motors you are used to ran poorly and did not last they were either a misapplication for the use or possibly poorly built/assembled. 1 out of every 12-15 motors we build end up using an OEM shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 You guys are being ridiculous by suggesting a built block for <300whp. Get an oem block, a good tune, sleep happy. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Still cheaper to rebuild than to buy new. Not saying you "need" to build it. But in the end it is cheaper. So, why not save some coin and have a stronger overall product? Most owners looking to rebuild are already in the 100k range. Most wont keep the cars another 100k. There is no increase in resale value for a OEM shortblock rebuild over a standard rebuild. Save the money. That is my point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 If you can find a shop at a good price and that does good trustworthy work, then yes I can't argue with that. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 ok stock shortblock is what ...$1,900 ish?? How much are you guys charging for rebuilding shortblock...parts, labor. Price out the door please. Assuming heads are ok. My engine is in perfect conditions so not sure if I should have that conversation right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 I'm stage 3. Everything bolt on is aftermarket, so I'll go the rebuilt route if need to be. Right now I'm figuring out where to go from here. Completely strip the engine down to bare long block, pull engine and deliver engine to shop or just tow the car and let them worry about it. Lets say pistons are needed, you guys are saying not to go with oem but something better. Like what brand, and should I do over-sized ones ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Wisco's, or CP's seem to be the choice for imports. My machine shop buddy told me if I didn't want a built bottom end, just buy a new EJ257, he can't rebuild a stock EJ for that price with everything new. I ordered the EJ257 and had them install the ARP head studs after the did the heads. They also borrowed the cam gear tools from the dealer when needed. They do an lot of work for the local car dealers. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Given that it had a Gates kit in it, the question remains, who installed it and did they properly torque the WP bolts when it was installed? Whatever you decide, good luck with your engine. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Given that it had a Gates kit in it, the question remains, who installed it and did they properly torque the WP bolts when it was installed? Whatever you decide, good luck with your engine. I did and used a cheapo torque wrench. who knew this would bite me in the ass two years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the timing belt cover and passenger side cam pullies ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Look here; http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Subscribe - looking to rebuild my motor next spring. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Passenger Camshaft intake pulley - 13320AA001 Passenger Camshaft exhaust pulley - 13049AA041 More camshaft info here Timing Belt Cover http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495102202.png Cover Belt No. 1, (front) Right - 13572AA092 Cover Belt No. 2, (rear) Right - 13573AA131 Cover Belt (Center) Front - 13570AA044 Cover Belt No. 1 (front) Left - 13574AA094 Cover Belt No. 2 (rear) Left - 13575AA130 More part numbers for bolts and seals here - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Thank you ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 My standard shop rate for an engine build = $3995. Out the door. Includes: CP or Wiseco Pistons (I prefer CP and try to sway customers that way) ARP head stud kit 11mm STi oil pump OEM T-stat OEM complete engine gasket kit Gates Racing Timing belt/water pump kit (TCKWP328RB with the blue racing belt) Bore/hone ACL main bearings ACL rod bearings Assemble shortblock Assemble long block Recondition heads/3 angle valve cut Assemble heads/set lash NGK Iridium plugs OEM oil filter Rotella T-6 oil OEM coolant and conditioner OEM ACC belts All bolts and plugs are fresh cadmium plated or replaced. Add h beam rods for $400 more. Add new 1 piece S/S valves (OEM size) for $200 more. My standard rate to rebuild using a new OEM shortblock is at least $600 more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 Just thinking out of the box. Buy a local low mileage 13k 2011 sti complete engine ( manifold/ turbo and all) for 4 grand. Sell good parts off my engine, and some of the sti parts to recoup atleast half ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 My standard shop rate for an engine build = $3995. Out the door. Includes: CP or Wiseco Pistons (I prefer CP and try to sway customers that way) ARP head stud kit 11mm STi oil pump OEM T-stat OEM complete engine gasket kit Gates Racing Timing belt/water pump kit (TCKWP328RB with the blue racing belt) Bore/hone ACL main bearings ACL rod bearings Assemble shortblock Assemble long block Recondition heads/3 angle valve cut Assemble heads/set lash NGK Iridium plugs OEM oil filter Rotella T-6 oil OEM coolant and conditioner OEM ACC belts All bolts and plugs are fresh cadmium plated or replaced. Add h beam rods for $400 more. Add new 1 piece S/S valves (OEM size) for $200 more. My standard rate to rebuild using a new OEM shortblock is at least $600 more. That sounds about right, from what my buddy who owns the machine shop was saying. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 I looking at valves right now. I see some over sized ones 33m (+1) from Stoptech and GSC. They're going for about $2 more than the regular set. Would these be worth while getting since I have to get the valve seats machined ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I'm about to change mine soon now since the beginning of it's life, it got caked in oil from a leaky cam gear. That scares me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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