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Gates Kevlar belt ripped with less than 15k miles :(


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loctite is usually a good idea on any bolt thats doesnt specifically say not to use it. make sure you torque the water pump bolts to spec, and do it when the engine is fully cooled down. it should take a couple hours to do at least, and thats in a shop with all the equipment. so take your time and you should be just fine. the beauty of these cars is thers lots of room between the radiator and engine to work in.:)

 

 

I use anti-seize compound on all the nut's and bolts, not a big fan of loctite.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Was at the shop today again to settle my bill. Also dropped off a toy for toys for tots and a... Get well soon card for my engine.

 

Here's some pics.

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo5-2.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo4-3.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo2-3.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo1-3.jpg

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I put the motor together today. Will be dropping it in tomorrow. Everything went pretty smoothly, but a 3 prong connector ripped off from the harness. Had to delicately solder the wires back on. (connects to a black sensor on the heads). I just hope i had wire orientation right. Also found out that the complete gasket kit doesn't come with turbo or uppipe gaskets,... stupid. When I picked up the motor from the shop, they honored me to "christen" it by giving it a turn on the crank pulley lol. Here's some pictures !

 

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo5-5.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo4-6.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo3-6.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo2-6.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo1-6.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo5-4.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo2-5.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo1-5.jpg

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Thanks everyone. She's in. Biggest pain in the ass ever. took forever to line the transmission and engine, atleast 4 hours. Then I had to pop back in my driver side axle after dislodging itself from lifting the transmission. I wanted to take the axle bolt off to get at the cv axle, but for an hour it would budge and actually broke my breaker bar. Ended up pulling the strut out, so I had room to ram the thing back in. I think I need to rebleed my clutch line. it was soft and got stuck to the floor, but after more attempts it firmed up and would release back. Gonna check that again though. Finally, my Fumoto valve broke after nicking it with a wrench, just popped off (the valves portion). had to dig through my pile of stuff to get the oem oil drain bolt. Oh and luckily I caught myself almost installing the engine mounts backwards while i was under the car aligning the engine.

 

Power steering is back in and topped off. Alt, starter, a/c, fuel lines, fmic pipes, harness/wires, battery, hoses, downpipe all in. Topped it off with oil and cranked the motor to get it flowing ( without spark and fuel ). Radiator/ fans in with new coolant as well. burbled it by squeezing the hoses.

 

Tomorrow ill get my base tune on it and check for misc other things before giving it's first idle run

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo3-7.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo2-7.jpg

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo1-7.jpg

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Looks good, 4 hours to install the block, I guess you missed my thread where after fighting mine I realized I had to jack up the back of the car, to help align both pieces.

 

Mine fired right up after I left the key on for a few minutes, a couple of times during the time before I finally started it.

 

Make you keep checking the coolant level in the turbo tank.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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It was weird. I had the four bottom bolts loosly threaded in but it was the upper side with a larger gap that couldn't close up.

 

Same thing, that's when I figured to jack up the back of the car. Took me a while, but I learned...:)

 

I seem to recall 4 try's to get the engine balanced right to drop it in. I set it on the old tire on the tailgate of the pickup and would adjust the chains and try again.

 

Good luck today.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Sounds really complicated. Is there no way to bolt these two together and thread the needle in through the top/front, especially if you have access to a chainfall?

 

I know my master tech in San Diego, just dropped the crossmember, undid the steering bits, then slid the engine and trans under the car, lifted it up, and bolted the cross-bits back in. But he was doing 1-2 engines a week.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Drop the crossmember...that's sounds like a lot of work, the steering rack is down there too?

 

With all the hassle of the axles, even if you leave them in, you'd need to get the car high enough.

 

I know I used to put V8's in with the tranny on them.

 

If you pull them as a unit you need to remove the tranny cross member, the shifter and drive shaft. Or at least unbolt the carrier bearing.

 

I did give it some thought before hand, I just pulled the engine.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I could'nt even adj. the balance of the engines weight if I wanted too. The engine hoist I borrowed didn't have that adapter. Had to use along strap tied to the motor to help move it every which way. All water under the bridge now though.

 

Good news. It started on the first try ! Forgot to plug in the MAF sensor, but other than that no codes or leaks ! Engine sounds good, a bit of a piston slap I think, but that should be normal during break in. Did smoke a bit because of the paint.

 

Some small issues now is that the power steering is squealing a bit, but it'll get better as I drive and keep topping it off. Also having an issue with my brakes (from doing the booster swap)

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Thanks! So happy , never pulled an engine out by myself before. PS started to get quieter. I could also hear a bit of piston slap when engine is cold (well I hope its that). Already changed the oil after its first idle warm up as suggested by the shop.

 

Drove five miles so far with it. tried to stay under 4k rpms and under 5psi, doing my best to vary the rpms. can already tell that it already just wants to go !

 

heres a lv snapshot ,lol

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/LearningView_SS_12-17-201274450PM.jpg

 

http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p330/ibr_adam09/photo-3.jpg

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Only 5 miles...Come on.. drive the bitc_. She wants miles.

 

I'll have over 10,000 miles on mine in a couple days.

 

 

 

Feels good, doesn't it. ;)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Got thirty miles on her so far. Power steering noise almost gone. Paint stopped smoking. Coolant leveled out. Rebleed the brakes this morning and now it's better. Oil level is still good, haven't seen it dip yet. Went and bought some more oil and subaru filters for up coming oil changes. Ima change the oil at 100 miles or so and another at 250 then 500. I know it's extreme but wants $20 of oil over the life of an engine ?

 

Car saw 5 pounds of boost for a moment with slight acceleration. Been using the lower gears to keep Rpms around 2500 and 3500 around town. Also Doing engine braking as much as i could to get an even break in process.

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Got thirty miles on her so far. Power steering noise almost gone. Paint stopped smoking. Coolant leveled out. Rebleed the brakes this morning and now it's better. Oil level is still good, haven't seen it dip yet. Went and bought some more oil and subaru filters for up coming oil changes. Ima change the oil at 100 miles or so and another at 250 then 500. I know it's extreme but wants $20 of oil over the life of an engine ?

 

Car saw 5 pounds of boost for a moment with slight acceleration. Been using the lower gears to keep Rpms around 2500 and 3500 around town. Also Doing engine braking as much as i could to get an even break in process.

 

Nothing wrong with changing the oil early.

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No not that much. Sorry if you stated this, but I don't recall if you did or not. Did you prime the turbo before install or starting the motor? And do a oil & filter change after the 1st warm up to operational temperature? And did you get a new oil cooler (what your oil filter spins on)?

 

I would be concern, that look like a lot of metal flake, if the oil & filter was change after the 1st warm. With that much metal flake, I would be checking & cleaning or replacing the banjo filter bolts if you still have them.

 

I going on V8's, V6's & I4's I rebuild or bought remand short block. I bought my LGT new. the 1st OCI didn't look like that. Unless Subaru does a couple oil & filter changes between assy. of the motor & before the car is delivered to the dealer.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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I did prime the motor and do an oil change after its first idle- warmup. We used a parts cleaner on the oil cooler before reinstalling. The piston and bores are set to 100mm. Im getting a bit of concern though now since its my first build. From reading, fine metal particles are normal in the first few oil changes, just as long as the particles don't resemble copper. (which they didn't)

 

I mean it wasn't that much to begin with I think. If I wasn't looking for particles, I couldn't have tell. In the picture they were starting to couple together, so maybe it just looks worse than it really is ?

 

I'll do another oil change at 300 miles.

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