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Show off your 5th Gen's aftermarket wheels!!


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How do you like the BF Goodrich? I was going to get those and my mechanic said he doesn't get good reviews from any car he has put them on. Noisy and doesn't wear well.

The all-seasons are fine, I have them on my Forester and after 8k miles, they still look brand new and are quiet. I had the BFG SportComp2 on my GT and they were loud as hell from day 1 and just got worse. I did get 20k miles out of them. They were really good on track for a street tire.

Edited by GTEASER
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How do you like the BF Goodrich? I was going to get those and my mechanic said he doesn't get good reviews from any car he has put them on. Noisy and doesn't wear well.

 

I've only had them on the car for 2 days. They are not unusually noisy. Time will tell. Nothing like a set of BFG All Terrain T/As. I know those howl. I am excited about the beefy tread on these Comp-2s come winter time. The stock Turanzas were worthless when you needed them the most.

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Hello again guys.

After a lot of considerations, I would probably go for the gunmetal Avid1 AV30 18x8.5 with +35 offset. It is impossible to find 5x100 in silver, but at least the gunmetal was wife approved as a color. I hope that it will work well with the stock suspension.

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As for the tires, I would follow the advise to go for a nice square look with 245/45/18 size - Will it be square enough with a bit of a curb protection edge?

Based on your experience, which of the following tire models (for a summer use only) will you pick if you limit your budget way down to 80-85$:

-Achilles ATR Sport

-Achilles ATR Sport 2

-Ohtsu FP7000

-Antares Ingens A1

-any other model you may suggest.

 

Thanks a lot.

Edited by cerrone
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I'll tell you the most important thing between you and the road are your tires. I'd highly consider saving and paying another 30-45$ a corner. 120-180$ more isn't going to break the bank when you think in terms of longevity and value
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I run Achilles ATR Sport2 in 245/45/17 they have a 400AAA rating. They are mounted on WRX 17x8 wheels. I purchased them on the recommendation from a good friend who is the Brand Manager at Pedders Suspension and drives a BMW M Z-Coupe. He used to be the Director of US Operations for Forge Motorsport. They are directional tires so they can only be rotated front to back. Overall I have been very pleased with there performance in both Wet/Dry.

 

Achilles does sell a 225/50/17 All-season tire with a 400AAA rating as well. Model 2233 that I will most likely purchase for my stock 3.6R Wheels.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, the new wheels arrived, but I'm facing some difficulties on how to mount the valves on them. Each wheel has two valve holes, but neither one of them seems suitable for the TPMS sensors install :confused::confused::confused: I have no good luck so far since the seller sent me the wrong size wheels the first time.

 

Please, have a look at the pictures and share your opinion

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Hole 1 - The valve is pointing at the back of the wheel. I am not sure if there will be a problems with the brakes or anything else. TPMS almost flush fit with the wheel - still different angle though. The solution to use the valve once installed is to buy a 45 Degree Tyre Valve Extension Adaptor

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Hole 2 - right in the center. TMPS stick out in full. This hole probably will be used with Flush Mount Valve Stems.

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...and I thought that will be as easy as a summer breeze....

 

I need a quick decision on what to do.

Edited by cerrone
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A small update from me.

After several talks this afternoon with some tire shops around the solution which I should take is for the TPMS sensor to go in the rear of the wheel where the flat spot is, as in Option 1. The TPMS valve itself is not going to be used at all - it will just hold the TPMS on its place.

The center hole from Option 2 will accommodate a regular valve stem, which actually will be used to inflate/deflate the tire after the install.

 

How does this sounds to you?

 

I was explained that the reason for two valve stems is because some people have a larger disk brake, so that is why they have the rear one.

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys... Any one running 245/45/18... Plz let mr know if there is any issues... I can put my hands on some cool wheels, however debating if im gonna have problems.

 

I do want a bit more meat on side wall... After all roads in New York City are shity

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Hey guys... Any one running 245/45/18... Plz let mr know if there is any issues... I can put my hands on some cool wheels, however debating if im gonna have problems.

 

I do want a bit more meat on side wall... After all roads in New York City are shity

Wheel width and offset is part of the fitment equation. We need to know that also. Edited by GTEASER
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Hey guys... Any one running 245/45/18... Plz let mr know if there is any issues... I can put my hands on some cool wheels, however debating if im gonna have problems.

 

I do want a bit more meat on side wall... After all roads in New York City are shity

 

That's a pretty good fitment if you keep the total offset of the wheels around +38 to +48. Further up the page, Timothy.B is running that exact same setup on a +45 offset wheel, so you can get an idea how the fit looks. I know for a fact his setup clears fine on stock suspension since I'm running a same total-diameter setup (he's on 245/45/18 on 18x8.5 +45, while I'm on 245/40/19 on 19x8.5 +45, so our total diameter difference is less than 1 mm), and I clear perfectly, no issues with the strut or the fender.

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A small update from me.

After several talks this afternoon with some tire shops around the solution which I should take is for the TPMS sensor to go in the rear of the wheel where the flat spot is, as in Option 1. The TPMS valve itself is not going to be used at all - it will just hold the TPMS on its place.

The center hole from Option 2 will accommodate a regular valve stem, which actually will be used to inflate/deflate the tire after the install.

 

How does this sounds to you?

 

I was explained that the reason for two valve stems is because some people have a larger disk brake, so that is why they have the rear one.

 

I don't like the look of the valve stem in the rear. Who in the world puts it there unless there was no quality control and it was actually supposed to be in the front.

 

And, getting to that valve stem at the center of the barrel is going to be a serious pain.

 

Ditch the wheels and get something else.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Gentlemen, does anyone knows when you put after market wheels without TMPS sensor and then put oem wheels with TMPS back on, will the light on the cluster go away?

Also anyone could recommend the best solution for having aftermarket wheels but not to have the light on the Dash

Edited by NYCEMS
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When TPMS sensors that are paired to the car are on the car, the light goes out. Best solution is to pick up another set of Subaru TPMS sensors for your aftermarket wheels and have them paired to the car. I got a set of TPMS sensors from a 2015 WRX to put on my TSW wheels for the Forester and programmed to the car for free at my local tire shop. It took them all of 5 minutes. My stock ones are still in the stock wheels in my garage.
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Gentlemen, does anyone knows when you put after market wheels without TMPS sensor and then put oem wheels with TMPS back on, will the light on the cluster go away?

Also anyone could recommend the best solution for having aftermarket wheels but not to have the light on the Dash

 

Once you put the tires that have the TPMS back on they will connect within a few minutes. if you get another TPMS set for your summer wheels you'll have to resync them every time you swap.

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