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Hello guys. My intentions are to replace the gaskets in my engine soon, when I will do the timing belt/waterpump replace. I drive 2.5i non turbo and I have no specific, other that OEM, requirements about the type of gaskets. I am not familiar with the manufacturers, therefore I would need a bit advise from you. Which one I shall go for from the listed in rockauto website? I read a lot of good things about Fel Pro. From the practice, what else, along with the gasket set, I need to purchase? Cylinder head bolts?

Hi all. I am planning to install an aftermarket interior footwell lighting. But I have to intercept the proper wires from the car wiring harness - a dome / map light wires for example. I am suspecting the connector on the photo, located on the right A-pillar, is the one that feeds the map light. Does anyone have some connector wire diagram to find which one of the wires I need to tap?

Hi all. I am using this thread to ask you something. Does anyone knows if the alternator cover that they sell for Impreza WRX / STI on the following links will fit the Legacy 2.5i 2010 as well? It probably depends on the distance between the two mounting holes. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001010087970.html or https://www.amazon.co.uk/WHWEI2020-Assurance-Alternator-Pulley-Subaru/dp/B08GPXZ3ZX

Thanks a lot for the detailed reply. I will follow on what you advised me about the dust caps as well. Having the right part numbers will help me a lot.

Hello guys. My 2.5i car reached 150K miles and I have to take care of the suspension, since I got sick of the boat feeling with the OEM suspension setup. What I did 2 years ago is to upgrade the rear sway bar with 20 mm one and also added 13/14 springs on the back only. This improved the suspension, but I think there is more to be desired. Since It is only a daily driver I am debating with myself if I should go with new KYB or with new Koni option. Before do that I need to educate myself a bit, therefore I’m using the opportunity to ask the devoted LGT community here. Take into account that the car is driven in Europe last 3 years and is PITA to find the correct cross-reference part number there. Even is the parts look identical, no one is able to guarantee me if they fit. Luckily, I am here in US for some time now and will try to buy some parts and take them back with me upon my return (4 struts in my baggage will definitely trigger the customs’ screening interest). That’s why I would require your support. I read enough to be convinced that the new KYB strut variant will solve the problem for a guy like me. Still, I want to explore the Koni variant as well and have an informed decision at the end. For that reason I am posting here and not creating a new topic. Either for KYB or Koni variant, the correct parts order that needed to be acquired is: v.1 (New KYB/Koni inserts) – (13-14 OEM springs front 20330AJ10A and rears 20380AJ10A) - (old Upper spring seats) – (new Top hats) or v.2 (same parts, but with the old Top hats, if they are in good shape after 150K miles ) Did I skip some parts that need to be purchased in addition so far? 1. If I go with the new KYB struts and 2013/14 springs option, should I buy 2010/12 KYB struts or 2013/14 KYB struts for my 2010 car? The part numbers in KYB website are different for 10/12 and 13/14 models: 1.1. 2010/12 KYB front left 339223/ right 339222 / rears 340026 and top hats/mounts front SM5361/ rears SM5764 1.2 2012/14 KYB front left 3340107/ right 3340106 / rears 340043 and top hats/mounts front SM5361/ rears SM5765 Probably the struts listed above are identical, but still they don’t share the same part number. 2. For Koni option and 2013/14 springs, what else should I buy in addition : 2.1. New top hats/mounts for the 2010/12 model or use the old ones from the existing suspension? 2.2. Which Koni inserts for the front - 8610-1447S or 8610-1453S? Thanks a lot for your attention.

I am more oriented on improving the ride feeling, since I am not happy with the stock suspension much, rather than dropping significantly the car down. Probably, there will be a drop of 1-1,5”, but just a little bit for entirely esthetics reasons. In that case, should I consider that the adjustment rear control arms are 100% necessary or they can be avoided?

Hello. I was not aware that the front OEM swaybar of the 13-14 model is any different. Is it thicker that the 10-12 model one?

Hi. I have a totally stock suspension on my car. Do I need to replace any other parts from it if I decide to go with these CX Racing coilovers. Some rear arms or any other part?

Few shots form Bulgaria. Probably the only skyblue around, since the color was for the domestic US market only. My insta account is: subiewerksbg for anyone who wants to follow.

Hello. Did you purchase these finally or you went different way? I'm still trying to figure out if they fit and if the material is sturdy enough for the price.

FLlegacy, Alexmed2002, sometimes the solution is simple, but you are somehow obstructed to see it from the first glance. Thank you for the suggestion. The link you provided is exactly what I would need. I will go that way.

Hello guys. I havent posted recently here. Since I owned the car I'm struggling to identify what is the engine temperature. As you may know there's no temp gauge on the dashboard, therefore I decided to instal an aftermarket one, with an aluminium hose adapter for the temp sensor. Probably will buy a 2.5" Greddy one. Before purchasing it I want to know what is the inside diameter of the upper hose that goes into the radiator. The hose adapter is sold in different diameter sizes ( 28MM/30MM/32MM/34MM/36MM/38MM/40MM ) and I want to purchase the proper one. The car is 2010 2.5i version. Anyone who already did that is welcomed to share some tips and pics. Thank you in advance.

I think that it needs a specific oil for it, therefore I asked the community here.

Hi guys. It is about time to replace the transmission oil for my car - a regular 2,5i, automatic CVT, VIN 4S3BMBG68A3233546. I got covered 140 000 miles already. The previous owner replaced the oil at around 90 000 miles. Since I have no previous experience with automatic transmission I need to know what are the factors that need to be taken into account when searching for a suitable aftermarket oil for the AT. Currently, I'm living in Europe and the price difference between the oil offered by the dealership and any aftermarket oil is triple the price - Thant's why I lean toward the aftermarket one. What is popular around is the oil offered by MOTUL . Any of you familiar with what specific type of MOTUL oil will be suitable for my AT? Or any other brand? Thanks a lot!

Any suggestion about what color brake calipers I should go with? Blue, red, grey or black? Metallic or not? I was thinking about dark blue metallic ones....

I'm glad you liked the final result as a color combination between the sky blue and the gunmetal. They cost me around $560 - far away of what I would pay for the Raijin. Here are some other close shots I found in my laptop: +35 offset from the rear and front Just before uploading her in the container.

Hello guys. Here is a picture of the new wheels installed on the car - Avid1 AV30 18x8.5 with +35 offset with 245/45/18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S tires. I can say that after a long brainstorming session about what offset I should choose, I went for +35 and the result was what I was looking for - as flush as possible with the fenders. I will upload some close pictures soon. This one is from the moment when my Subi touched the European ground for the first time last month where I moved along with my family. The 245/45/18 tires fit very well under the big arches and so far there is close to zero rubbing issues experienced. I'm riding with the stock suspension and there were just two times, when the car was loaded with people on the back seat and I was passing over some speed bumps, when I felt that the back tires bumped into the arches.

A small update from me. After several talks this afternoon with some tire shops around the solution which I should take is for the TPMS sensor to go in the rear of the wheel where the flat spot is, as in Option 1. The TPMS valve itself is not going to be used at all - it will just hold the TPMS on its place. The center hole from Option 2 will accommodate a regular valve stem, which actually will be used to inflate/deflate the tire after the install. How does this sounds to you? I was explained that the reason for two valve stems is because some people have a larger disk brake, so that is why they have the rear one.

Hey guys, the new wheels arrived, but I'm facing some difficulties on how to mount the valves on them. Each wheel has two valve holes, but neither one of them seems suitable for the TPMS sensors install :confused: I have no good luck so far since the seller sent me the wrong size wheels the first time. Please, have a look at the pictures and share your opinion Hole 1 - The valve is pointing at the back of the wheel. I am not sure if there will be a problems with the brakes or anything else. TPMS almost flush fit with the wheel - still different angle though. The solution to use the valve once installed is to buy a 45 Degree Tyre Valve Extension Adaptor Hole 2 - right in the center. TMPS stick out in full. This hole probably will be used with Flush Mount Valve Stems. ...and I thought that will be as easy as a summer breeze.... I need a quick decision on what to do.

Roger that. Ordered already some Yokohama Advan Sport A/S.Were on offer I couldn't resist. Will report soon with pictures.

Hello again guys. After a lot of considerations, I would probably go for the gunmetal Avid1 AV30 18x8.5 with +35 offset. It is impossible to find 5x100 in silver, but at least the gunmetal was wife approved as a color. I hope that it will work well with the stock suspension. As for the tires, I would follow the advise to go for a nice square look with 245/45/18 size - Will it be square enough with a bit of a curb protection edge? Based on your experience, which of the following tire models (for a summer use only) will you pick if you limit your budget way down to 80-85$: -Achilles ATR Sport -Achilles ATR Sport 2 -Ohtsu FP7000 -Antares Ingens A1 -any other model you may suggest. Thanks a lot.

It's good to know that. 3% could be nothing for the 3.6, but means significant more for the 2.5 engine.

Thank you for your replies – they are another bucket of good advises narrowing my decision. I would rather stay on the safe ground instead of biting the bullet with wider wheels. Those pics with 245/45 actually look very good for what I am looking for – a good looking everyday family driving horse. I just came across another model which hits me exactly style wise and I might consider as an option which comes within the established practical Gteaser limits – AODHAN LS002 18x8 +35. Here are some nice real pics of the wheel: https://www.aspiremotoring.com/products/aodhan-wheels-ls002-matte-gun-metal The only problem is that they offer it only in matte gun metal (gold and black are not options), not in silver, but it seems not to darky and will complement the sky blue Subi somehow.

Gteaser, Thank you for providing me with the workable options for the wheels sizes. What do you think about the 18x8.5 +35 variant? A 0.5 wider than the one you proposed to me? Willtheyfit is saying that the inner rim will be 6.3mm closer to the suspension strut and the outer rim will poke out 6.3mm more than 18x8 +35 variant. The 245/45/R18 look good on your Forester, but I started to think whether they are going to look a bit bulky on the Legacy. Anyone with this tire setup around the forum? One thing I skipped to ask about is the centerbore diameter. As far as I know the OEM size is 56.1 mm. Should I use hubcentric rings by any means if the new wheels differ from the OEM size?

Hello guys I’m reading all of your posts these days since I want to upgrade the stock 16” wheels +48 offset, fitted with 205/60/R16, with a new set of 18”s. I was lost several times due to the different opinions and points of views, but somehow managed to survive. What I want is: - to have them flush mounted as possible - to have a nice square tire look, probably with some curb protection edge for the wheel. - to avoid any rubbing issues -to avoid any fender rolling -not to spent much – max $160-170 per wheel - and I want to keep the stock suspension. Wheel design – I do like the multi spoke design - Either clean straight lines or the one with many “Y”s as in TSW Nurburgring In that regard, I found few models, which I personally like: - AVID1 AV30 – 18x8.5 +35 http://www.avid1wheels.com/wheels/ - AVID1 AV20 – 18x8.5 +33 or 18x9.5 +38 (too wide???) - XXR530 – 18x7.5 +35 or 18x18.8 +35 http://www.xxrwheels.com/wheels - XXR550 – 18x8.8 +36 - Konig Interflow – 18x8 +40 (will it be flushy looking???) http://konigwheels.com/wheels/main-line-wheels/interflow/ -PETROL P3A - 18X8 +35 http://www.petrolwheels.com/custom-wheels-rims-p3a/ - Advanti Fastozo 18x8 +35 http://www.advantiwheel.com/wheel/fs-fastoso-silver/ - I do like many of the Drag models, but their offset is usually 45, therefore I’m not considering them anymore. Color wise – the car is sky blue, so most probably I would go for silver / grey / gunmetal / bronze. The black / gold / white are out of the list for now (although I stated in my previous post that I like the gold DR-19). After some research and asking few of you in private messages, I concluded that my search needs to be limited to: - Wheel width 18x7.5, 18x8 or max 18x8.5 - Offset – not lesser than 35 and max 40. Less than 35 will cause fender problems probably. - Tire size 245/40/R18 (optional 245/45/R18 if fits with enough clearance around the tire) I used the willtheyfit calculator, which shows significant difference between the stock 16"s and any combo 18"s, but is not giving me an answer about my fenders concerns. I would be happy to hear your opinion about whether I’m thinking on the right track about the wheels’ width/offset/tire size established limits. Please, do correct me if you think that any other offset / width will do the job. As you know, this is a really tough decision between what I want and what I can fit, so any help and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks again!