Dohc ej22e

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Doing the speed limit on a freshly paved, flat freeway.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/C0A355AA-1C62-44AB-849D-C92362CD2126-4664-00000568820184B0.jpg

Not bad for an EJ22.

I would never have seen anything like this in any of my old EJ22s or EJ25D.

The RPM is just before the car starts getting into "power".

Btw, the 22D now has 2k miles as of last night.

[twisty]

im having a difficult time getting mine to do over 26mpg at any given time other than parked

[DOHCEJ22E1]

im having a difficult time getting mine to do over 26mpg at any given time other than parked

 

I get around 27-28 in the street if I'm just moseying along.

 

Tune-up.

Intake spacers.

UEL headers (wider-than-stock piping).

Custom after stock cat to WRX exhaust piping.

Hybrid intake.

Very cold air.

EJ25D heads.

Driving like a grandma & adopting a style that doesn't allow much braking until I get to where I need to be.

 

These are pretty much what aid the mpg increase.

My old & knocking 25D could barely muster 30mpg on the freeway & both of my previous EJ22s (even the first DOHC version) could only get about 31-32 at best.

[Stasis]

Thanks for that dude, might take a look when I get more monies :>

 

Hopefully perrin ship to NZ!

[twisty]

I get around 27-28 in the street if I'm just moseying along.

 

Tune-up.

Intake spacers.

UEL headers (wider-than-stock piping).

Custom after stock cat to WRX exhaust piping.

Hybrid intake.

Very cold air.

EJ25D heads.

Driving like a grandma & adopting a style that doesn't allow much braking until I get to where I need to be.

 

These are pretty much what aid the mpg increase.

My old & knocking 25D could barely muster 30mph on the freeway & both of my previous EJ22s (even the first DOHC version) could only get about 31-32 at best.

 

mine is tuned and such, but none of your list is on my car. especially the cold air. i also carry a few hundred lbs of tools in the back, as well as my kids most of the time. i also cant seem to make myself hypermile. i like to drive, and i like to drive quickly. i dont speed or anything, but i do use the accelerator most of the time. i feel like im cheating my car if i let it shift before 3500 rpms

[DOHCEJ22E1]

mine is tuned and such, but none of your list is on my car. especially the cold air. i also carry a few hundred lbs of tools in the back, as well as my kids most of the time. i also cant seem to make myself hypermile. i like to drive, and i like to drive quickly. i dont speed or anything, but i do use the accelerator most of the time. i feel like im cheating my car if i let it shift before 3500 rpms

 

That hybrid CAI will help a little all over.

I know what you mean about really driving the car.

If my car is under 3k RPMs, it feels like it has no heart.

So I make sure I treat it to a nice hard drive every now & then to feel justified in owning it.

[twisty]

i really meant that there is no cold air here in AZ at the moment. or most of the year, for that matter hehe. i am going to do the hybrid CAI at some point, but it seems the universe wants me to work on the house first. AC busted, had to use all my "spare" cash to fix that. and struts/ coilovers are the next worry on my car, the ones i have are destroying my tires in short order.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Well, the show is over.

I think that oil leak incident might have caused some significant damage.

I'll state the verdict once I hear it again but I could have SWORN that I heard a little "pinging" last night at idle & then it went away as I accelerated a little.

I have low enough compression to run 87 without ever having fear of per-detonation so I KNOW something else has happened.

I'm preparing for the worst & have already begun my hunt for a 222 w/low miles to swap the heads on.

I hope I've documented enough info on the "EJ22D".

As for Kenny's request for an acceleration video, that will come very soon, while the 22D is still in the "good" zone.

[Kennyfvholla]

As for Kenny's request for an acceleration video, that will come very soon, while the 22D is still in the "good" zone.

 

Take it easy on the thing. If you're worried about the motor, don't feel the need to push it hard like that. Even if it for only one run. Usually, bearing knock is first noticeable between 1500 and 2500 RPM.

 

Was it cold or warm out when you started it up? Remember, the temperatures are starting to get colder. These motors start making more noises at startup as that happens.

 

What oil are you running?

 

I don't think you'd of done any bearing damage by running it low even by two quarts, for like two weeks. If anything, it would be very minimal.

 

Post up a video of a cold and warm start. I want to here it start and idle, then I want to here stead 1500, 2000, and 2500 RPM bits for at least 15 seconds a piece, both cold and warm.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Take it easy on the thing. If you're worried about the motor, don't feel the need to push it hard like that. Even if it for only one run. Usually, bearing knock is first noticeable between 1500 and 2500 RPM.

 

Was it cold or warm out when you started it up? Remember, the temperatures are starting to get colder. These motors start making more noises at startup as that happens.

 

What oil are you running?

 

I don't think you'd of done any bearing damage by running it low even by two quarts, for like two weeks. If anything, it would be very minimal.

 

Post up a video of a cold and warm start. I want to here it start and idle, then I want to here stead 1500, 2000, and 2500 RPM bits for at least 15 seconds a piece, both cold and warm.

 

The temps were cold when I started it & heard the brief knocking.

 

I was running Rotella T6 but now, I have about 3.5 quarts of semi-synthetic 10w-30.

 

As for the distance traveled on low oil, I hadn't even gone 10 miles before I heard the knocking.

Even my scanner picked up a knock event (no check engine light but even if the car doesn't throw one, my scanner will still pick up the code).

 

This is the video.

Not exactly your requests but hopefully, good enough.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsTpH8gZ1Fs&feature=plcp]Engine Noise Test - YouTube[/ame]

 

My scanner hasn't picked up that knock event since that moment.

I'm going to be cautious over the next few days.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

That 'knocking' sound appeared again & I have pinpointed it to the driver side cylinder head & it goes away completely when oil gets to it (11mm oil pump works QUICK).

Is it possible that a cam may have been damaged?

I'm taking the cam cover off when I have time for an inspection.

It is not the block (I am strongly hoping this).

[Lsnaple]

Hmmm. I have a leak in that exact same spot on my almost identical engine. Not sure yet though (read lazy and just not feeling like messing with it yet) if it's the cam seal or if I forgot to put sealant on that specific cam cap. Luckily, if you can call an oil leak luck after spending a lot of extra time cleaning and making sure I wouldn't have a leak after putting the engine back in, it's only a quart about every week and a half.

 

On a good note, mine has been running strong since the beginning of June. Hopefully you get your situation fixed as cheaply as possible.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Hmmm. I have a leak in that exact same spot on my almost identical engine. Not sure yet though (read lazy and just not feeling like messing with it yet) if it's the cam seal or if I forgot to put sealant on that specific cam cap. Luckily, if you can call an oil leak luck after spending a lot of extra time cleaning and making sure I wouldn't have a leak after putting the engine back in, it's only a quart about every week and a half.

 

On a good note, mine has been running strong since the beginning of June. Hopefully you get your situation fixed as cheaply as possible.

 

It is indeed the cam cover that is leaking then.

I used fujibond to reseal the cam covers & they haven't leaked since.

The rubber seal for the cam covers is not enough to hold back the oil.

RTV is required for a full seal.

[Baddog]

I had read too big of an oil pump on these motors. Causes problems.

 

So you may actually kill your motor due to the oversized pump. Something about starving the bearings.

 

I researched it throughly because I had a 10mm pump and an 11mm pump. I stuck with the 10mm which came factory on my 96 EJ25d block

[DOHCEJ22E1]

I had read too big of an oil pump on these motors. Causes problems.

 

So you may actually kill your motor due to the oversized pump. Something about starving the bearings.

 

I researched it throughly because I had a 10mm pump and an 11mm pump. I stuck with the 10mm which came factory on my 96 EJ25d block

 

I got the 11mm oil pump because it was actually cheaper than the 10mm at the time & 12 & 13mm seem like overkill.

 

The oil pump blasted oil through the seals (I used cheap eBay seals but then purchased & installed new seals along with fujibond RTV.

 

I haven't had a leak since but that small ominous feeling about the pump still remained.

 

I guess you have excellent timing with this post, which will now lead me to study various mm oil pumps & their effects on the EJ engines.

 

The 11mm pump seemed just right as I figured it would provide sufficient oil pressure to the heads under strenuous conditions when they are starved, like cornering or being driven hard in general.

[Lsnaple]

It is indeed the cam cover that is leaking then.

I used fujibond to reseal the cam covers & they haven't leaked since.

The rubber seal for the cam covers is not enough to hold back the oil.

RTV is required for a full seal.

 

I used anaerobic sealant on mine, the others aren't leaking, I might have forgot to put it on that one specific cap. Or it's my seal. I'll find out when I order some new seals and take it back apart.

 

I also read that about the oil pump. I stuck with the one on it and just tightened it up and resealed it before when I changed the front main so I didn't bother with it when I replaced my head gaskets.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Report:

The engine hasn't made a single sound since the last time.

Even after checking the driver side head with the valve cover off, I could find nothing out of place.

I may have actually gotten to it just in the nick of time.

It sounds as smooth as it does in the video prior to the latest one I've posted, except with a slight hiss as the custom midpipe has cracked again.

Nothing seems out of place when I drive it & it pulls as hard as it normally does without any sort of anomaly.

As for the oil pump, I'll have to rock with it to see what actually happens but the engine is now getting oil circulation without any leaking.

So far, so good.

[Kennyfvholla]

Honestly, I don't here anything bad at all... It may have just been the weather man. It's getting colder out. That, and running a bit low on oil may have caused a temporary noise.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

First thing.

My scanner detects a 24-26% engine load w/AWD on & 15-18% engine load w/FWD on (the car produces high MPGs w/AWD & FWD on).

 

Second thing.

Misfire/knock has been detected.

There are no knocking sounds but I felt "pulses" & the engine felt like it couldn't produce power during that period in which the check engine light illuminated.

Air intake/filter assembly is clean (I cleaned it before I assembled the 22D/filter is new).

Spark plugs/plug wires are new (NGK platinums & OEM spec wires).

Fuel injectors are working & spraying properly (I cleaned them & tested them).

 

The coilpack plug/harness is good so maybe the coilpack itself is wearing down?

 

The misfires only happen when I accelerate hard or when I have already gotten up to speed & ask for more power (mostly during passing).

I have an MSD coilpack that I have not installed yet because I don't have time to get the materials needed but maybe I should make time before my current coil pack fails.

 

Also, I was told that the colder the air becomes, the higher up in octane I should use.

Maybe someone would like to shed light on this for a bit?

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Update:

 

There are no misfires anymore, no CELs

The knock sensor no longer goes off erratically.

There are was loose spark plug wire & I reconnected it, started the car again, & all is well.

Had to get a wheel bearing replaced not too long ago.

The car has reached 170K & the EJ22 at 105K+.

It hasn't given me any serious issues since I installed the new hybrid & has been a loyal sweetheart to me for the most part.

 

If or when I get rid of this car, I will really miss it but that won't be for a long while.

In fact, I may never get rid of it & end up getting another GT (so I can retrofit it to look like a Limited) or I may get an Outback.

Still gotta' modify it quite a bit before that point!

Power comes on smoothly & the engine never feels overwhelmed or stressed out when accelerating or passing someone.

 

The transmission shifts as smoothly as ever, even with the 1-2 kick, which only happens in the cold or when I first start driving.

I think I'm really going to hold off on the turbo build & focus my efforts all around the car.

I feel like this could be even more fun than my first BD was.

The EJ22D still runs as smooth as ever & makes only the intake/exhaust sounds as expected of aftermarket parts.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

Quick update:

The "EJ22D" now has 10k miles on it & has slight piston slap in the cold.

It still gets 28-29city/35-36hwy when I'm driving it within the normal speed limits.

When I drive it aggressively, the numbers are closer to 26city/32-33hwy.

I have recently installed a Kartboy lightweight crank pulley & that helps w/quicker shifting & quicker midrange (hwy) revs.

 

It is still being run on 87 octane & it is still as smooth as it ever was & ever will be.

Every single person that gets into my car comments about how smooth it runs after about 5 mins of being a passenger.

I will be focusing my efforts on modifying it now & I will be keeping this thread alive for the ease of obtaining information just in case people have questions about DOHC heads on EJ22s (I still see questions from time to time). This will show them that it works & works well on the stock GT ECUs.

 

Also, I have decided to go back to the stock exhaust piping & work my way up from there. I have gotten new cats/full exhaust system but have had no time to put them on. I know for a fact that I'll be ironing out the power band if I use the stock system over the WRX setup I have now. The midrange feels great but anything below 3k rpm is very lazy.

 

Btw, the car looks like this now:

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0568_zps2a074cbf.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0570_zps6c640b50.jpg

[DOHCEJ22E1]

So get this. The timing belt tensioner bolt, which is less than 10k miles old, SNAPPED while I was on my way to a friend's house. Luckily, the engine was at idle, so I'm hoping damage was not sustained by the valves. If so, I guess I'll be starting my Phase 2.2 DOHC build a little earlier than expected. If not, we will see what happens.

[1-3-2-4]

perfect timing to ask this question.. using the DHOC 2.5 heads on the ej22 you wont have any risk of valve to piston damage right? More so just the valves hitting each other?

[Osei]

OK, time to add my .02.

Opportunities presented itself. 98 GT (not as nice as your white one.), blown engine.

Had an EJ25D from a Forester, but it wasn't running right. Also had engine from a 99 IOB, so I said why not.

Used short block from IOB and had another set of heads (from original blown engine).

Got gaskets etc and started.

Only major differences are the CTS, gauge sender, PCV and IAC hoses.

In the 99 the gauge and monitor are combined. Subaru plugs the other hole ( see pic).

Didn't want to exchange the crossover pipe, so I removed the plug and combo sensor and replaced with the two units from the blown engine.

The PCV hose that comes from the 2.2 is S shaped and will not mate with the airbox from the EJ25. Had another, so I swapped it. The IAC hose needs to be an inch or two longer for best fit, but will work for the moment.

Car is up and running and hope to put it on the road soon.

My thanks to OP for his lead.

 

O.

[DOHCEJ22E1]

It is good that you posted the sensor plug differences. I usually just swap everything from the previous engine over so that the wiring harness just plugs in and go, so little details like this are very important & should not be overlooked.

 

As for 1-2-3-4's question, sorry I'm late but yes, the valves will still hit each other if the belt breaks at high speed but using an EJ22 block only lessens the possibility of valve to piston damage, it does not prevent it like the non-interference EJ22. DOHC EJ22s are fully interference engines.