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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134846 <- This here shows that the 25D heads of 1996 are cut to match the bore of the 99.5mm block, which means that they cannot be used on any 2.2L EJ (22E/T/2) but there are Japanese versions of these heads that can be used as they are for the 2.0. However, if you used the 96 heads on the 97-99 25D blocks, compression ratio should be reduced & would make for a turbo friendly block (depending on the thickness of MLS head gaskets used). Likewise, using 97-99 heads on a 96 block should raise the compression ratio (again, depending on head gasket thickness).

 

Regardless of the bore, I still think it can be done. I believe Subiekid has done it, but now I can't remember what year heads he used...

 

BTW

 

Thanks....

 

Thanks for killing my biggest dream :((((((((

 

 

BUT NOW, I want to take the pistons from my 96 2.5 and install them into my fresh 98 Fozzy block and use the heads from that motor to increase the compression. I just thought about this the other day, so it's ironic that you posted about it a week or so ago.

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Regardless of the bore, I still think it can be done. I believe Subiekid has done it, but now I can't remember what year heads he used...

 

BTW

 

Thanks....

 

Thanks for killing my biggest dream :((((((((

 

 

BUT NOW, I want to take the pistons from my 96 2.5 and install them into my fresh 98 Fozzy block and use the heads from that motor to increase the compression. I just thought about this the other day, so it's ironic that you posted about it a week or so ago.

 

Of course it can be done, there are guys out there putting 251 heads on 22T blocks & just cramming those hybrids with all kinds of boost. I was told many times that a DOHC 22E wouldn't run right but I'm on my 2nd one & it's running pretty good so far. As an explorer to another, I say go for it & see what happens! You'll never know if you don't try & if you don't try, you'll never know.

 

And thos 96 pistons are actually ideal for a high compression build. They look tougher than the 97-99 pistons too. That engine is going to be VERY torquey in the midrange & may even have a little on the low considering the early powerband of the 96.

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there are guys out there putting 251 heads on 22T blocks & just cramming those hybrids with all kinds of boost.

 

Did you come across any build threads dealing with this? Were they using standalones? 251 heads would be easy for me to find so maybe this is an option I should look into for my 22T. However I will probably just stick with the stock heads so I can use a 20G ecu since I have no experience with tuning or using a standalone so I am a little intimidated by the prospect.

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Regardless of the bore, I still think it can be done. I believe Subiekid has done it, but now I can't remember what year heads he used...

 

BTW

 

Thanks....

 

Thanks for killing my biggest dream :((((((((.

 

Since this made me feel bad somewhat, I did more research & found this -> http://www.b4et.com/docs/cr_matrix.pdf. Apparently, Slapping either form of 25D heads on a 22E block will yield the same compression ratio but now I'm wondering how that is. Do the 96 25D heads just have deeper chambers than the 97-99 heads? Their CCs are a little higher for sure. I know I said that bigger heads can't be used with smaller bores but there are definitely people out there with those kinds of hybrids. I'll really have to do some more studying & converse with a few gurus to see what they think about everything.

 

Completely unrelated note: I have gotten this insane urge to grind away my intake ports on the heads & intake manifold to match the gasket exactly. Knowing how much material can be shaved away is starting to dig a hole in my brain.

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Did you come across any build threads dealing with this? Were they using standalones? 251 heads would be easy for me to find so maybe this is an option I should look into for my 22T. However I will probably just stick with the stock heads so I can use a 20G ecu since I have no experience with tuning or using a standalone so I am a little intimidated by the prospect.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2032165 <- I believe that may have the info you seek. Google was once a treasure trove of Subaru knowledge but you really have to go digging around these days plus the guys who started modding older Subies in the early 00's aren't around anymore so most of the knowledge has to be dug up or re-learned through experience by us. johnegg & brok are some of the only few on these sites that I'm aware of that constantly keep the knowledge fresh & flowing.

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Thank you so much for the link DOHC! I have googled many a 22T build thread but never came across that one.

 

Fuji K gave a link to his build project on the first page. I'm not finished reading through all of it but it has to be one of the most epic build threads ever: http://mnsubaru.com/threads/fujis-journal-gf8f5sd-project.24073/

 

Subikid has mentioned using wrx head & ecu on a 22T block and Fuji's thread lays it all out. What a great resource. It makes my head spin a bit reading it. It also answered a lingering question of mine. How long will a regular 5MT last after a turbo swap? Not very long. :lol:

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I drove 54 miles today & plugged my scanner up to the OBDII port to have it consistently record 30.5mpg highway & 24-26mpg in mixed street driving. The car is definitely a little lazy below 2500-3000rpms but nothing that really bothers me. I took it through the winding roads in Willington & went a little hard on it. After I install the "Sport" mode, the transmission will take better advantage of the engine's TQ.

 

This engine has a totally different & very enjoyable personality when you keep it above 3Krpms & toss it around a bit. The power is there & its always available, never dropping as long as my foot is in command. The only things the kept me from really putting it to work are the tires (they feel like mush) & my worn struts/shocks (coilovers sound great about now).

 

I've noticed that the oil is very clean when I pulled the dipstick, which means that the blue Subie filter is doing its job well. I was always told that the blue filters were no good & always stuck with Mobil 1 but the blue filters are even better than that, I think. I'll be sticking with it from now on. I really want to see the true potential of this particular engine & though decent it may be, I will be saving up for turbo money.

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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17RE5wwCAcE]1998 Subaru Legacy GT Limited 5 - YouTube[/ame]

 

The 22E running as smooth as can be. I am actually eager to make another one of these engines now that I know they're actually pretty easy to build. My next GT (wagon) will have one for sure. For my future Outback or SUS, I want to do a 22E head swap on a 251/253 block. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

419 miles on the "EJ22D", as I will now call it, & the car decided that it wanted to die on me 1 town away from my date tonight. Check engine light. Turned the key once. Didn't start. Waited 5 minutes. Turned key again. Started. Then I plugged up my iPod & it pulled a "Camshaft Position Sensor A" code before the car died again. One town away from a very pretty date.

 

Since I obviously couldn't make it & pretty much ruined myself for not foreseeing this failure, I resigned myself to figuring out the problem in blind rage. I found that the wires to the camshaft position sensor had deep & heavy green corrosion on them. Corrosion, which I could swear wasn't there when I put everything back together. I removed as much of it as I could & the car started up again.

 

Hands being dirty & late to what could have been a good night, I just took the car home & settled in for the night. Camshaft sensor wiring I HATE YOU WITH EXTREME PREJUDICE.

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Today's Log:

35mpg. When I reset the scanner & scanned it again, the same thing was recorded at 65mph on my way to fix a customer's car, then it dropped to 26mpg in the streets. On the down side, I severely dislike 2000 Ford Taurus cats. They are extremely tough to get out.

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More logging. Almost 500mi on the EJ22D. Sprung an oil leak from the passenger side head (the rubber on the seal of the lower most rear cam cover bolt is worn) today. The leak isn't bad but it is annoying as I don't like to see oil dripping at a snail's pace out of the engine. All of the bolts were brand the ***k new. I will replace it when I have time.

 

I REALLY need to get off of my ass & do the "Power Mode" mod. I've read other people's stories about it & it seems like something that I need this transmission to do for the engine. It's an awesome little engine but let's face it, anything that can take advantage of it's TQ will be beneficial plus the shifts feel too soft for a car labeled "GT".

 

Other than that, no issues. I fixed the camshaft sensor wiring by cleaning the tip of the wiring & soldering it into the connector. It will NOT be coming loose & embarrassing me again.

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what about the raincheck with the very attractive date you missed?

 

inquiring minds want to know.

 

That did not go well. At all. Got shot down like a foreign aircraft in American air space. Gotta' keep searching. I mean, I have a friend that's a very pretty woman that I've been talking to & hang out with sometimes but I don't want to make anything weird between us, so I've been out & about, going on dates here & there. I'm about to slow that down though. I'm not trying to get caught up in a trap where I end up spending my life with someone who is only supposed to be around for a season.

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women....cars.......women.....CARS.....

 

the car gods are trying to tell you something. i feel your pain; i was driving to a movie with a girl last year and the fuel pump on my jeep quit. she thought i stood her up.......

 

watcha complaining about with the oil leak? it's only one easy bolt :spin:

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women....cars.......women.....CARS.....

 

the car gods are trying to tell you something. i feel your pain; i was driving to a movie with a girl last year and the fuel pump on my jeep quit. she thought i stood her up.......

 

watcha complaining about with the oil leak? it's only one easy bolt :spin:

 

That same scenario played out with me. Unfortunate but it happens. If I were 18 when that happened, I would not have felt like a man for weeks. And speaking of fuel pumps, I think mine is beginning to act up. I used to be able to hear it prime all the time when I turned the key to start but now, I don't hear it prime sometimes.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVbOxuVUnAo]1998 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - YouTube[/ame]

 

The above video is what the car looks like currently. It is above 165k miles now & the 22D has 530 miles on it, still running smooth. It will get an oil change soon & I might remove the cam covers just to see how everything looks inside. I really want to get a dremel & widen/match the intake manifold/head ports. That's been bugging me for a while. In the mean time, I still haven't done the "Power Mode" mod yet. Ahhh, procrastination... I did clear the head lights since the video though.

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Today's Log:

640mi on the "EJ22D" and it's still running very smoothly.*

I have noticed that it is VERY slow to decelerate, which is good because & can get in & out of the power without having to floor it, unlike my first 22E.*

My first DOHC EJ22 was a lot like this one but with a tad more power (I used a Phase 2 block) but I'm very satisfied with the mpgs I'm getting from this engine.

26city/30+highway with a combined total of 29.5-30mpg, which I'm REALLY not looking forward to sacrificing for a turbo just yet, especially with what the gas prices are.

The engine doesn't knock are anything like that & it's power delivery is very smooth. I just wish my cruise control worked but that is a whole other issue entirely.

Power Mode & FWD Mode mods coming soon (Really procrastination since I've been spending a LOT of my time doing side work & hanging out with a friend & her family watching Tyler Perry Madea plays.)

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Finally got around to installing "Power Mode" & "FWD Mode", the latter of which I'll probably never use unless I get a flat. I was a bit skeptical of the "PM" mod until I installed the switch, grounded it, & turned it on. The end result is EXACTLY what this engine needed. It downshifts when I ease on the pedal, it holds the shift longer (to redline if I let it), it shifts more aggressively, & it makes it easier to keep the engine in start of its powerband. It feels a lot more willing to move about in city traffic, which is very good. On the highway, I have to turn the PM off so that it can switch gears faster & save a little gasoline (scan tool reported 2.3mpg lost using PM on the highway).

 

Remove this first screw in the lower dash...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/BA8CA4AF-9625-4E35-BBE8-98B10A6F276B-881-0000007F4BBEBB09.jpg

 

Then this screw & pull the lower dash out.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/0D022FD7-9BB2-433D-8969-08B3891A0BE3-881-0000007F5850693A.jpg

 

The TCU is in the back near the firewall. It has 2 10mm bolts holding it onto a bracket. Unbolt it...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/4F4DFA37-A092-4AEC-A532-6667292F76F2-881-0000007F60A5130B.jpg

 

The 20 pin connector will be easy to spot. The you will notice the 4th pin open. The pin is a constant power feed. The idea here is to ground it.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/69082F58-D223-4BC6-A5EF-765B325F71F4-881-0000007F66BF2C0F.jpg

 

I pulled the connector out because I found it easy to work with this way...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/0A4F278F-84CB-461C-9ABF-C17996A261CA-881-0000007F6EF81D01.jpg

 

Wire to hook into the 4th pin & then from that to the switch, then to a ground...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/0E27E4D0-AF51-4BB2-8B98-1E461CE8DDD3-881-0000007F7D21965C.jpg

 

I ran into a bit of frustration trying to put the wire in the connector & have it just stay there, so a broke a piece of metal off a wire terminal end, ground away some metal, & smashed the remaining piece of terminal to make my pin. It's a bit crude bit it's all I had near me...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/5935004F-32B4-4352-81AA-71B71B347A78-881-0000007F842FD64C.jpg

 

The red wire clamped down onto the tiny metal piece & pinned in. I made sure I could not pull it out with light pulls...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DACD2B2A-9271-472E-9399-8C7A80120D93-881-0000007FA53DFE5A.jpg

 

The switches for the project. I wanted to have lighted switched for the project but I've been told that the extra power may interfere with the operation of the switches/modules so I sent my switches back & got these instead...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/9887AD37-DBCA-43B4-9860-3BEB2F5C83EA-881-0000007F9252BDD5.jpg

 

I slowed down on taking photos at this point since I got into it but I reused the fuse box for the FWD Mode to be on the safe side of things. It now has a 10A fuse in it at all times...

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/5BC13474-937C-487C-B25E-231F001F103C-881-0000007FBF60ADC6.jpg

 

Okay, I had officially stopped taking photos by this point & ended up wiring pin 4 of the TCU 20 pin connector to its switch then grounding that switch in the engine bay. For the FWD switch, I just used the rest of the wiring I had to extend & connect to the wires I had cut the FWD fuse box from.

 

My last pic is of the completed project of "Power mode" & "FWD mode", the FWD switch being on the top & the "Power" switch on the bottom.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/03013B10-D5EE-4E30-9B2D-CB76643F5167-881-0000007FD5BDAD6E.jpg

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nicely done. is that the center console you mounted the switches to? when you do the FWD switch can you tell a difference instantly?

 

Yes, they're mounted in the center console.

I drove around with the FWD switch on just to see if it would drive like ass (like an overweight FWD) like my 1st L did.

It still does & the mpg gains are very minimal.

Technically, you're not supposed to drive with the FWD engaged unless you have a flat or some kind of incapacitating emergency, but it's really not worth sacrificing AWD for.

There is talk of the Solenoid Duty C being damaged with prolonged use.

I will say that the car DOES have more pull with it engaged though.

 

As for the "Power Mode" switch, AMAZING.

Now I can get up these hills in Rockville without feeling like the car is struggling because the transmission will choose the right gear for going up & stay in that gear until I'm done climbing the hill. It also makes the car as aggressive as I need for it to be in the city & makes very good use of the engine's power.

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Today's Log:

Got 1000 miles on the 22D & so far, so good.

No head gasket leaks.

The engine seems to really like the colder air that has struck us in recent days because I can definitely tell by the exhaust sound that it's making a bit more power.

The shocks on the car are officially on their way out & hopefully, I get hired @ FedEx so I can indulge in a good suspension setup.

Otherwise, the car is good.

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  • I Donated

The engine seems to really like the colder air that has struck us in recent days because I can definitely tell by the exhaust sound that it's making a bit more power.

 

Thats the biggest load of horse shit I've ever heard.

 

Everyone knows that you can't judge a cars power by its sound. Its all about the butt dyno :lol::lol::lol::lol:

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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